Not Everything in Paris is Closed in August – Here are Some Delicious Ideas…

Not Everything in Paris is Closed in August – Here are Some Delicious Ideas…
Arpège – Maison de Cuisine “August is a wonderful month for vegetables; I stay open to share my home-grown bounty with my clients.” So says Alain Passard, son of Louis the musician, Marcelle the seamstress, and proud grandson of Louise whose portrait hangs on the wall closest to the kitchen of his iconic left-bank 3-star Michelin restaurant. The chef’s culinary art is recognized worldwide; his alumni/alumna a bright constellation of stars including Pascal Barbot, Bertrand Grebaut, Tatiana Levha, Sven Chartier, Fumiko Kono, David Kinch and David Toutain– read all about it in Christophe Blain’s album “In the kitchen with Alain Passard“. A passionate cook and gardener, he famously deleted meat from his menus more than 15 years ago and grows organic vegetables, flowers and roots in his three gardens – the produce arrives in Paris daily by TGV. (The Gardener’s Lunch from 145€ plus drinks). 84 rue de Varenne, 7th M: Varenne T: 01 47 05 09 06 Open Monday-Friday Lunch & Dinner Le Jules Verne After welcoming Vladimir Putin and Emmanuel Macron at the Palace of Versailles in late May, superchef Alain Ducasse invited the Trumps and the Macrons to Le Jules Verne – on the second floor of the Eiffel Tower – for a high-profile dinner – the restaurant privatized for the occasion. The menu was classified “Top Secret” – jokes about “burgers & coke” fuelled social media – but news filtered out: Pâté en croute; Stuffed vegetables from the Queen’s vegetable garden, Versailles; Dover sole, sauce Hollandaise (a tribute perhaps to the former President?); the main: Filet of beef Rossini, sauce Périgueux and to finish, wild strawberries and chocolate soufflé. (5-course “Experience Dinner” 190€-230€ with wine pairings.) “A meal at Jules Verne is a rare experience – more than a restaurant, it’s a place of dreams and memories”, says AD. Avenue Gustave Eiffel, 7th 2nd Floor – Pilier Sud M: Bir Hakeim Open 7/7 T: 01 45 55 61 44 Le Warwick Terrace Le Warwick chef Ludovic Bonneville is delighted with his extended Penthouse Terrasse restaurant on the hotel roof overlooking the Champs Elysées. “It’s my open kitchen, but if you just want to relax with cocktails/mocktails and some W style tapas you are very welcome”, he says. (Delicious summer menus – from 32€-36€). We loved sea-bass tartare and Tarte façon pizza du “W” followed by Red mullet drizzled with olive oil paired with gnocchi and artichoke poivrade. Get a room? Tarifs approx 340€ per night with breakfast. 5 rue de Berri, 8th M: George V T: 01 45 63 14 11 Open Monday to Friday Lunch & Dinner Le Fouquet’s Version 2017 Located on the corner of Avenue George V and the Champs-Elysées, Le Fouquet’s has been linked to the world of art, culture and cinema since 1899 (the César dinner – celebrating the French Oscars – is held here annually). After closing for six months, the chic exterior covers are off to reveal a sparkling new Jacques Garcia designed space (as well as 16 sumptuous new suites and rooms) respecting the style that confirms its Monument Historique status since 1990. Beautiful wood panelling, golden chandeliers, studded red velvet banquettes and armchairs – polished brass plates indicate the favorite tables of celebs such as Edith Piaf, Jean Gabin and Charles Aznavour – Studio Harcourt portraits of celebs punctuate the walls. “I wish I had my rond de serviette here,” sighed my lunch companion. Regulars, with their own designated tables are given this honor, making Fouquet’s their chic home away from home. Since 2014 multi-star superchef Pierre Gagnaire has been consultant to the seven Le Fouquet’s worldwide. As well as the signature Merlan Colbert, Beef Tartare or Lobster Ravioli, chef Gagnaire has evolved the menu to include sharing plates, non-gluten and vegetarian dishes. (Lunch formula 28-35€ Menu 57€ A La Carte about 70-80€.) 99 avenue des Champs-Elysées, 8th M : George V T : 01 40 69 60 50 Open 7/7 Valet Parking Allard Chez Allard (founded in 1932 by Martha Allard) cooking has always been a woman’s story. Now, head Chef Fanny Herpin continues the tradition, her delicious soothing dishes are cooked in the open kitchen from original Allard recipes with, of course, an interesting modern spin. Stand-outs include Challans Duck with olives, shoulder of Limousin lamb, slow cooked Coq au Vin, wonderful cheeses, and vanilla île flottante dessert. Match with rich, ripe red 2012 Savigny-les-Beaune 1er cru Les Peuillets – A.Bichot (16€ glass-48€ bottle). Average spend for dinner 68€ + drinks. We loved: Fernande (Martha’s daughter) Allard’s traditional frogs legs (42€) – eating history! 41 rue Saint André des Arts, 6th M : Saint Michel T : 01 58 00 23 46 Open for dinner only in August Le Perchoir “LE BHV MARAIS” Our favorite rue de Rivoli Marais store pays a bright and colorful homage to South Africa by design duo Les Autruches. The ethnic theme continues at Le Perchoir, the panoramic terrace bar/bistro. Chef and Ambassador of South African gastronomy is Kobus Botha, who owns South African Braai (barbecue) restaurant in Montreuil-sous-Bois (who knew?). Varkribbejies – slow cooked pork ribs (19€) and Mrs Balls chutney anyone? Manu the mixologist suggests Rusty Nail cocktails to match (12€). Scotch, Drambuie, Zest of Citron. No wonder the hash tag’s #thecoolestplacetoshop No reservations – open Monday-Saturday from 20.15-1.30am Sunday from 19.15-1.30pm: Entrance at: 37 rue de la Verrerie, 4th M: Hotel de Ville La Reserve, Paris Restaurant La Pagode de Cos and its terrace is open 7/7 and proposes certain wines at interesting prices particularly the Cos d’Estournel vintages 2010 and earlier (Price red 540€, Caviste price 350€ and white 2010 280€…

Lead photo credit : Alain Passard photo©Virginie Klecka

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Born in Hampton, Middlesex, UK, Margaret Kemp is a lifestyle journalist, based between London, Paris and the world. Intensive cookery courses at The Cordon Bleu, London, a wedding gift from a very astute ex-husband, gave her the base that would take her travelling (leaving the astute one behind) in search of rare food and wine experiences, such as the vineyards of Thailand, 'gator hunting in South Florida, learning to make eye-watering spicy food in Kerala;pasta making in a tiny Tuscany trattoria. She has contributed to The Guardian, The Financial Times Weekend and FT. How To Spend, The Spectator, Condé Nast Traveller, Food & Travel, and Luxos Magazine. She also advises as consultant to luxury hotels and restaurants. Over the years, Kemp has amassed a faithful following on BonjourParis. If she were a dish she'd be Alain Passard's Millefeuille “Caprice d'Enfant”, as a painting: Manet’s Dejeuner sur l’herbe !