A Grand Café for the Grand Palais

Convivial dining in one of Paris’s most stunning landmarks

Several years before moving permanently to Paris in 2016, my family and I were invited by a local friend to lunch at the MiniPalais, a recently opened restaurant at the Grand Palais. Despite the name, there was nothing “mini” about it. Situated behind the colonnades of the sprawling loggia on the neoclassical façade of the Grand Palais, and with a direct view of the Petit Palais, the setting was breathtaking— literally. Paris has many charming outdoor terraces for dining; this was in a different league. 

After becoming a resident here, I found myself returning again and again, primarily to revel in the high of that magnificent setting. It was crushing to see it close in 2020 as the five-year renovation of the Grand Palais got underway. 

Consequently, I could not have been more thrilled when I learned that with the reopening of the Grand Palais this past summer, a successor to my old favorite was being planned by the exclusive restaurant chain, Loulou Groupe. Named the Grand Café, and styled a “modern Parisian brasserie,” my immediate question was, would it live up to its predecessor. Having now had the pleasure of dining there — in summer, on the terrace — my opinion is an unqualified yes. For me, it quite surpasses the original spot in a variety of ways. It’s more elegant and refined, without being fussy, and the food is definitely more exciting and delicious (though somewhat pricier). 

The entrance to the Grand Café is in the Rotonde Clemenceau, close to the Champs Elysées. This is at the opposite end of the Grand Palais from the earlier restaurant, but the key Beaux-Arts architectural elements are still in place along both terraces. I had been particularly fond of the original mosaic friezes running the length of the exterior walls, even before learning their history. Designed by artist Louis Fournier, they represent the arts throughout different eras: Asian, Egyptian, Greek, Roman and Byzantine, Arab on the southern loggia; Medieval, Renaissance, and 17th, 18th, and 19th centuries embellishing that of the Grand Café. 

Designer Joseph Dirand has wisely left the outdoor space to speak for itself. By adding just a few complementary elements such as wicker chairs and comfy banquettes with pale green upholstery set between pots of greenery, he has created an idyllic urban garden, très Belle Epoque. And this time the view includes not just the Petit Palais but the Champs Elysées as well. 

Within the lofty dining room, thanks to the oversize windows and clever placement of mirrors, those same views can still be enjoyed. The interior space, with its welcoming cocktail bar, musical podium for the live jazz ensemble, curvilinear banquette seating, and lively, well-stocked oyster bar at the far end, brings to mind a theatrical stage set. It can feel romantic and intimate, or bustling and animated.  

I mentioned above that I felt dining was even better than previously and I stand by that statement. The Grand Café is fortunate to have the winning combination of Benoît Dargère, Loulou Groupe’s executive chef and British bartender Colin Field, 30-year veteran of the Hemingway Bar at the Hotel Ritz Paris, at its helm. 

The menu, which is the same at lunch and dinner, is in keeping with the modern French brasserie concept, melding updated French cuisine (foie gras de canard, quenelles de turbot, filet de boeuf au poivre, with nods to the Mediterranean (tomato, fig and buffalo mozzarella with Parma ham) and a few definitely more contemporary items (lobster tempura with avocado, ginger and lemongrass). There is a long list of salads, the seafood bar is temping and lavish, and, if you’re a fan of classic French desserts, you are not going to be disappointed. 

In fact, it’s hard to think of anything that will disappoint. 

DETAILS

Le Grand Café
Entrée Rotonde Clemenceau,
1 place Clemenceau, 8th
Tel: +33 1 85 09 40 50
Open 7/7 from 12 noon to 2 am

The restaurant is accessible by elevator, but you must ask at the valet parking station.