Les Pères Siffleurs: Where to Eat in the 15th

What if we were to tell you that one of our favorite dinners recently was served in the 15th arrondissement? Off the radar of most travelers, this residential district isn’t exactly a trendy destination. Yet if you dine at the bistro Les Pères Siffleurs, you’ll enjoy the food as much as the people-watching in a village-like ambiance. 

Emerging from the Vaugirard metro station, the looming hulk of the Tour Triangle glinted in the distance. (Not without controversy, this new skyscraper — designed by Herzog & de Meuron — is now the third largest building in the French capital, and marks the edge of the arrondissement at the Porte de Versailles.) The rue de Vaugirard is the longest street in Paris, and this area is quite busy and commercial. Turn onto rue Gerbert and the vibe changes.

The Saint-Lambert Church rises above a leafy square, where Parisians walk their dogs and stop to chat in what feels like a little hamlet. The bistro with its distinctive red awning overlooks this charming scene. Seated outside on the terrace on a warm summer evening, under bluebird skies streaked with drifting cirrus clouds, we watched as neighbors stopped to check out the chalkboard menu. Dommage, no tables available — Les Pères Siffleurs was full that evening. It’s best to reserve in advance!

A word about that menu. Chef Shunsuke Takano honed his skills at Michelin-starred restaurants in Paris, and here he’s serving French bistronomic cuisine with Japanese accents in ingredients, seasonings, and technique. It’s hard to choose among the seasonal offerings right now — the dishes are creative and well executed — but you can’t go wrong with the marinated tuna followed by the Iberian pork belly served with grilled romaine, corn, and sautéed mushrooms. The sea bass is also delicious, atop aubergine caviar and roasted cauliflower, flavored with yuzu gremolata and smoked herring roe. To cap off your meal, don’t miss the citrus-flavored crème brûlée served with ginger ice cream.

Good to know: At lunchtime there’s a fixed-price menu of 27 euros for two courses, or 32 euros for three courses.

What’s with the name? The bistro was originally founded by two friends, Philippe and Aymeric, who bonded while picking up their kids from school. Discovering their shared passion for food and drink, the two friends opened Les Pères Siffleurs in 2019. Now it’s Philippe at the helm on his own, and he’s designed the interiors with vintage decor he’s collected from flea markets and antiques stores. He’s also curated the wine list to feature natural wines and independent winemakers. 

As we sat in the fading light, music from a concert poured from the church. A full chorus sang along with an orchestra and the notes soared in the summer evening. The wind lifted the branches of the chestnut trees, the sunlight catching on the leaves. A pinch-me-perfect Paris evening.

DETAILS

Les Pères Siffleurs
15, rue Gerbert, 15th
Tel: 01 48 28 75 63
Open from Tue-Sat, noon- 2 pm and 7 pm – 10 pm.
Starters from 10 euros. Main plates from 29 euros.