The Essential Guide to the 20th Arrondissement
- SUBSCRIBE
- ALREADY SUBSCRIBED?
BECOME A BONJOUR PARIS MEMBER
Gain full access to our collection of over 5,000 articles and bring the City of Light into your life. Just 80 USD per year.
Find out why you should become a member here.
Sign in
Fill in your credentials below.
Known for its bohemian atmosphere, the 20th arrondissement often attracts a young, hip, and artistic crowd. From its humble beginnings as a collection of villages on the outskirts of Paris, the 20th has become a bustling creative hub and a popular spot for locals to enjoy a meal or a night out.
The two most well-known areas of the 20th are the Belleville neighborhood and Père Lachaise Cemetery. Other sights include the various gardens and green spaces scattered throughout this large arrondissement, along with a section of La Petite Ceinture, an old railway track that has been transformed into walking trails around the perimeter of Paris.
Petite Ceinture. Photo: Jill Amari
Things to Do / Places to See
Belleville
The name “Belleville” dates from 1451, when the area was a medieval village. After the Commune of Belleville was annexed to the city of Paris in 1860, Haussmann split the community in half in the hopes of squashing any insurgences. This is why the famous Rue de Belleville spans both the 19th and 20th arrondissements, with the 20th being on the southern end.
Today’s Belleville is known for its large artistic community, and in particular for its street art. However, Belleville was nearly demolished in the 1950s and 60s due to disrepair and high pollution levels. Some older artists still recall fighting to restore and renovate Belleville instead of destroying it, and the city eventually decided to rehabilitate the neighborhood with green spaces, renovated apartment buildings, and social housing.
Belleville also boasts some beautiful churches which are sure to be less busy than more popular spots like Notre-Dame and Saint-Sulpice. For a quiet, contemplative visit, check out Notre-Dame-de-la-Croix, Saint Jean-Baptiste de Belleville, or Saint Jean Bosco.
Paris Panoramas
One of the best views of the Eiffel Tower can be found at the Parc de Belleville, which creeps up a hill to reveal a surprisingly unhindered view of several Parisian monuments. The park also features a duck pond, picnic areas, an active vineyard, an obstacle course for the kids, a sports park, and tables for games such as ping-pong, chess/checkers, and foosball.
View of the Eiffel Tower from the Parc de Belleville. Photo: Jill Amari
As the largest cemetery in Paris (44 hectares), Père Lachaise has over 3 million visitors annually, so it’s a must-see if you’re in the 20th. Due to the dozens of celebrities buried there, Père Lachaise is one of the most visited cemeteries in the world. Some legends who were laid to rest in Père Lachaise include Jim Morrison, Edith Piaf, and Gertrude Stein.
Père Lachaise has been active since its opening in 1804, with about 10,000 funeral ceremonies per year and over 75,000 tombs. However, it’s more than just a cemetery or tourist attraction; it’s also the largest green space in Paris, meaning it’s home to a wide range of flora and fauna, helping to promote biodiversity. Furthermore, the cemetery has erected several memorials for soldiers and victims of various wars, genocides, and natural disasters. Take a couple hours to stroll around and acknowledge the quiet weight of this cemetery; you’ll feel like you’ve left Paris altogether.
Père Lachaise Cemetery. Photo: Jill Amari
Restaurants
The 20th certainly isn’t lacking when it comes to a variety of cuisines. Though the 13th arrondissement is known as Paris’s Chinatown due to its heavy Chinese influence, the 20th boasts its own array of Chinese restaurants, with Belleville being known as a second Chinatown. Other common cuisines include Indian, Japanese, Vietnamese, Turkish, Lebanese, and, of course, French.
Located in the heart of Belleville, Cendrillon is a classic French restaurant with a twist, as it’s partially hidden underground, cave-style. Cendrillon is the perfect spot for couples or groups of friends but is not the best place to bring children, due to their focus on caviar, frozen mezcalitas, and wine.
Address: 50 rue Piat
Moncoeur Belleville not only has amazing food, but it also has one of the best views in the city, thanks to its strategic location at the summit of the Parc de Belleville. No matter the time of day, the restaurant is always hopping — especially during Sunday brunch.
Address: 1 Rue des Envierges
View this post on Instagram
For a healthy meal, head to Les Bols d’Antoine, where they serve vegan-friendly and gluten free bowls. Absolutely everything is vegan—a rarity in Paris. In addition, they’re a popular brunch spot on the weekends.
Address: 10 Rue des Envierges
La Taverne de Zhao is a well-known Chinese restaurant chain with other locations scattered around Paris. It’s so popular, in fact, that some locations have a long line snaking around the door during lunch and dinnertime. As such, booking a table in advance is highly recommended.
Address in the 20th: 42 rue de Ménilmontant
Bebop is an eco-conscious restaurant focused on using fresh, seasonal, and local products in each of their homemade dishes. Like many other restaurants in the 20th, they, too, offer an extensive brunch menu on the weekends.
Address: 1 Av. Gambetta, Pl. Auguste Métivier
Bars and Nightlife
Many locals head to the 20th for a fun night out, skipping the long lines which often plague more crowded areas of Paris. While there are plenty of classic, casual bars to explore, here are some more creative ideas for your next nighttime outing in the 20th.
As a cabaret bar, Culture Rapide invites all to enjoy their signature drinks while watching a show, which changes every night. With events like poetry slams, spoken word performances, and concerts, Culture Rapide is the perfect spot for groups or couples who are looking for something out-of-the-box.
Address: 103 Rue Julien Lacroix
La Bellevilloise is Belleville’s cultural center, featuring concerts, cultural events, theatrical performances, exhibitions — and a rooftop bar. After undergoing 10 years of restoration, the rooftop bar is a green space featuring artisanal creations, experimental drinks, and pathways to explore the veritable jungle. Take it all in while sipping on a signature cocktail or mocktail.
Address: 19-21 rue Boyer
Shopping
Creative boutiques
Though many artists call the 20th arrondissement home, there are very few ateliers or studios which are open to the public, except during specific times such as the annual Belleville Open Studios. However, some artists do keep their ateliers open, such as the home décor shop Atelier Lanzetta (64 rue de la Mare).
Thrifting & sustainable shopping
The 20th arrondissement is home to a few thrift stores which sell quality and vintage clothing at decent prices. A wide, though pricey, selection is available at Le Relais (340 rue des Pyrénées), and a smaller, cheaper thrift store is FriShop (47 rue de Ménilmontant). For more sustainable shopping, check out Ibal Concept Store (61 rue de Ménilmontant), which sells food, home décor, gifts, and beauty products, with a focus on eco-friendly items.
Shop cafés
If you’re in the mood to browse while enjoying a drink or a snack, check out the number of literary and music cafés spread across the neighborhood. Most of the bookstores in the area, especially in the Jourdain/Pyrénées quarter, are independently run, such as the Swedish book café Bokbar (72 rue Julien Lacroix).
For those who are passionate about vinyl records, check out Bar Italia Records & Coffee (9 avenue du Père Lachaise). Another unique café is Boken Manga Bar (196 rue de Belleville), which welcomes all manga, anime, and video game lovers to check out their collection while sipping some delicious bubble tea.
Lead photo credit : Père-Lachaise Cemetery. Photo: Jill Amari
Related Articles
By Jill Amari