A Return to Yerres and the Maison Caillebotte

Recalling an adventure from last summer that took us from Brunoy to Yerres, I recently convinced the same friend to join me for a “sequel” for my birthday. On our previous trip, we had been too exhausted to properly visit the Maison Caillebotte, and it had remained a loose end I wanted to tie up.

We met at Gare de Lyon and caught the RER D. Just 25 minutes later, we stepped out onto the hill overlooking the region. After spotting a cozy café for a “post-adventure” tea, we made our way down to the Yerres River. It was an immediate reminder of why the Impressionists were so drawn to this corner of the world. The reflections on the water were hypnotic; I could have easily dedicated an entire vignette just to the play of light and greenery dancing on the surface.

Locals and “Pika Pika”

As we wandered the river path, we struck up a conversation with a local woman who pointed us toward a few lunch spots. We opted for a restaurant called “Pika Pika,” and it was an excellent choice. Between the great meal and the vibrant atmosphere — filled with locals and a rather “artful” statue on the second floor — it provided the perfect energy for the afternoon ahead.

The Park and the “Iron Arm”

Crossing back over the Yerres, we arrived at the Maison Caillebotte, the family estate where artist and Impressionist patron Gustave Caillebotte lived and painted. We had forgotten just how expansive and beautiful the grounds are. Modern, “artful” statues greet you at the entrance, leading into a vast green field dotted with locals enjoying picnics.

While we bypassed the Orangerie, we took the long path encircling the park. At the water’s edge, we found the striking tall statues by the artist Pollès. Among the other statues was “Le Bras de fer” (literally “The Arm-Wrestle” or “Struggle”), where massive bronze hands reach out over a tranquil arm of the river while birds dart between them. It’s a powerful, modern contrast to the classic scenery.

Inside the Painter’s World

Our “warm-up” walk finished, we finally entered the house itself. The interior is a masterclass in 19th-century luxury. We moved through a decadent dining room into living spaces adorned with sublime fabric wall coverings and quiet, sunlight-filled studies.

The two floors tell the story of Gustave Caillebotte’s history, his family, and a surprising personal connection in that he had an early interest in photography as an art form. Looking out from the windows, it’s easy to see how this setting — tucked between the river and the park — was the ideal sanctuary for a painter whose bequeathed works became the central collection of Impressionism for the French Republic.

A City Embrace

As we prepared to leave, we passed a statue of a couple embracing on the street; it felt like a silent but warm “goodbye” from the area. After a relaxing tea and coffee at the café we had spotted near the station, the RER whisked us back into the bustle of Parisian life. It was a perfect, “easy” day trip — nature, food, and art are still swimming in my mind, along with a zillion new pictures to triage.