BUZZ: Le Dome Du Marais, Folies Bergere Auction & BnS Kitchen

15 May 2012 by Margaret Kemp    3335  
BUZZ: Le Dome Du Marais, Folies Bergere Auction & BnS Kitchen
Margaret Kemp
By Margaret Kemp
Housed in the magnificent 18th century glass-roofed former auction house/ municipal pawnbroker, Mont du Pieté, director Cédric Munier and Les Mauvais Garҫons (ex-Ginger and Café de l’Odeon) have created a 7/7 concept from soup to nuts. “We’ve tried to create a contemporary atmosphere without losing the history and beauty of the location”, says Munier. Success! Walk in, on the left a cabinet of curiosities displays objects which may remain unclaimed, left with Pierre the pawnbroker, forgotten. Through to the Jardin d’Hiver, two budgies play in an antique cage, surrounded by tschokes and modern photos. Eat or drink here, there’s a club atmosphere, glossy magazines, make new best friends, read the papers, start/finish your novel with afternoon tea and Madeleines, cakes au Carambar, make your own Proustian moment. The handsome glass dome dining room showcases the flair of ex-Costes chef Christian Leclere and artisan pâtissier Mathieu Laplace. Asiatic influences are on the menu, as you’d expect from a resto welcoming “les pipoles”, en direct from the pages of Gala, Paris Match and Point de Vue. Begin with delicate Créme glacée de petits pois à la menthe: Burratina, pesto et légumes croquants du jardin: Tartare de daurade, citron verte, gingembre et salade d’herbes: Foie gras maison et miso blanc: Duo d’asperges, foie gras en créme brulée. You’ll want it all, especially Pizza maison aux truffes noires, fontina et frisée blanche, pair it with a white Saint-Pourcain from Famille Laurent 2010, (32€). There’s also la belle assiette de jambon Belotta, but that’s not a test for chef, just for the person who carves it. Risotto is matched with morilles and green asparagus: Ravioles de Homard Bleu, with a fragrant écume de Bourbon. Mains include a very royale Daurade, émulsion citron vert. Filet de lotte, émulsion romarin: Saint Pierre, mousseline de céleri, legumes au chorizo: Belle Sole Entière, purée de pomme de terre maison. There’s Tartare de Boeuf faҫon “Loc Lac” (ginger and spices Cambodian style). Supreme de Volaille: Agneau en deux faҫons avec confiture de legumes en ratatouille: Foie de Veau et purée de carotte au lard, caramel de Xéres and Emincé de boeuf Thai et riz blanc. Try the red Crozes Hermitage from Domaine Combier 2010 (49€). There are also wines by the glass at 6-8€ Martine Dubois cheeses (find her at 80 rue de Tocqueville, 17th) or chef Laplace’s sweet stuff includes Café Gourmand: Glaces et sorbets de l’Ardèche: Fraisiers à notre faҫon: Cheesecake Speculoos: Mi-Cuit tout chocolat des Mauvais Garҫons: Tartelette Framboises et gelée de champagne: Ananas rôti en crème brulée and Dôme Chocolat Noir, coulis absinthe basilic. Le Dome du Marais,53 bis rue des Francs-Bourgeois, 4thMetro: Rambuteau or Hotel de VilleT: 01 42 74 54 17Lunch formula – Plat du Jour 19€Starter+Main or Main+dessert 26€A la Carte Average Spend – 43€ + wineOpen 7/7 from 12h-23hSalon de thé 7/7 15h-18hBrunch sunday 25€Valet parking from 19h In Paris 1886 “music-hall revue”, a daring new style of entertainment is created.  For over 100 years Folies Bergère has been the signature of French joie de vivre and extravaganza. Celebrity cobbler Christian Louboutin recalls: “When I interned at Folies Bergere, many years ago, I was often asked by the cabaret dancers to buy carpaccio of veal from the market. I couldn’t understand why they ate so much veal. One day they laughed and revealed it was to cushion the pain of their incredibly high heels. Veal was chosen because it didn’t bleed into the shoes!” A few dates: 1872: Inauguration of the Folies, Paris’s first music-hall.1886: Production of the first revue “Extravaganza”1909: Maurice Chevalier debuts at Folies Bergère1911: Folies Bergère contract Mistinguett to lead the revue1917:Paul Derval becomes director of Folies Bergère. To compete with the Casino de Paris, he decides to focus on outrageous costumes, set and stage effects.1926/1927: Josephine Baker crowned “Queen of the Folies”1936: To prepare for the arrival of visitors to the 1937 World Fair, Paul Derval goes to New York to tempt Josephine Baker, now a superstar on Broadway, to return. At the same time Michel Gyarmathy makes his first designs for Folies where he stays for 56 years.1966: Death of Paul Derval, succeeded by his wife.August 1974: Hélène Martini buys Folies Bergère and creates Folies Je T’adore- Folies de Paris- Folies en Folie, Un Vent de Folie (with revolutionary tableaux to celebrate the Bicentennial of the French Revolution), Fous des Folies (directed by Alfredo Arias). Subsequently celebs line up to play on the mythical stage of Folies Bergère, from John Butler to Herbie Hancock and Vanessa Paradis. Now the public have the opportunity of taking home authentic Folies Bergère souvenirs. Hélène Martini, the soul of Folies Bergère for over 30 years, has commissioned Parisian auction house Bailly-Pommery & Voutier to put her unique collection under the hammer. Dubbed “Empress of the Night”, Hélène Martini was director of Comédie de Paris, the Bouffes Parisiens, Raspoutine, Schéhérazade, The Mogador and Folies Bergère from 1974 to November 2011, when Folies Bergère was sold to Groupe Lagardère. Expect nearly 6,000 feathered and sequinned costumes, designed and made in the workshops of the Folies Bergère, used in revues produced between 1974 and 2000 : they will be shown and auctioned from 11 June 2012 at the Palais de la Bourse over three sessions (two catalogued sales on Saturday 9 and Sunday 10, one non-catalogued sale of costumes, accessories, notions and supplies). To this magnificent set of lots add a hundred posters and programmes recounting a century of revues, original musical scores composed for Folies Bergère revues and drawings by Erté, the fashion illustrator who worked with Paul Poiret before collaborating closely with Hélène Martini on the design of sets. Oh la la c’est magnifique see you there cherie! Auction room at Palais de la Bourse,Place de la Bourse, 2nd
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By Margaret Kemp

Born in Hampton, Middlesex, UK, Margaret Kemp is a lifestyle journalist, based between London, Paris and the world. Intensive cookery courses at The Cordon Bleu, London, a wedding gift from a very astute ex-husband, gave her the base that would take her travelling (leaving the astute one behind) in search of rare food and wine experiences, such as the vineyards of Thailand, 'gator hunting in South Florida, learning to make eye-watering spicy food in Kerala;pasta making in a tiny Tuscany trattoria. She has contributed to The Guardian, The Financial Times Weekend and FT. How To Spend It.com, The Spectator, Condé Nast Traveller, Food & Travel, and Luxos Magazine. She also advises as consultant to luxury hotels and restaurants. Over the years, Kemp has amassed a faithful following on BonjourParis. If she were a dish she'd be Alain Passard's Millefeuille “Caprice d'Enfant”, as a painting: Manet’s Dejeuner sur l’herbe !