Saint James Paris, A’Trego Cap d’Ail, Frenchie Wine Bar, & Qui Plume la Lune BUZZ

   2004  
Saint James Paris, A’Trego Cap d’Ail, Frenchie Wine Bar, & Qui Plume la Lune BUZZ
Saint James Paris There’s a new look to the historic and handsome Saint James Paris, just behind avenue Foch, Paris. Bambi Sloane, whacky and talented decorator had the intelligence to use the theme of hot-air balloons, first launched on this site by the Montgolfier brothers in 1783. Throughout the club, wallpaper, by Maitena Barret, is based on the original wall-coverings by manufacturer Jean-Baptiste Réveillon, evoking those daring young men in their flying balloons. In the garden, three Montgolfier structures look as if they’re about to take off. In fact they’re part of the restaurant, which moves outside in summer. Cyrille Robert (ex-Les 3 Marches, Versailles, Ledoyen, Jules Verne, etc.) is the main man in the kitchens. A charming man, he’s been at Saint James for the last 13 years, so he understands what members and their guests require. “My dishes are gourmand et génereux,” he smiles. He insists his menu is a “menu” and not literature. “That’s all in the Saint James’ magnificent library,” he says. Fresh herbs are picked daily from the potager to garnish starters such as Tourteau en habit vert, King Crab, Crème glacée wasabi. Carpaccio d’espadon mi-cuit, légumes croquants. And mains: Bar à la vapeur, sarriette et asperges vertes. Filet de boeuf d’Aubrac grillé, pomme vonassienne. Tartare de daurade royale, légumes primeurs. To drink red or white Château Hostens Picant 2004 or 2005 (3o€).  And, to finish, Vacherin fraises des bois, meringue à la violette. Brousse de brebis, baies de goji, fine gelée abricots. It’s a fabulous address with château attitude—any minute Steed and Emma from The Avengers will appear to take lunch, dinner or a cocktail maison. “One of your better ideas Mrs Peel, Steed will say.” Saint James Paris should be taken without moderation. Because you’re worth it. Saint James Paris Tél: 01 44 05 81 81 43, avenue Bugeaud, Paris 16th Métro:: Porte Dauphine Spa Gemology: Members only Membership fee 1,600€ per annum Rooms & Suites from 360-800€ Restaurant open to public from Mon-Sat dinner Lunch formula 53€ changes daily Sunday Brunch 43€    Children 6-12 years 26€  Under 6 no charge Bar open to public Mon-Sat 7pm-12midnight Average Spend in restaurant 75€ + wine A’Trego in Cap d’Ail A’Trego, Cap d’Ail is the result of the meeting of three memorable men. Philippe Starck, Cyrille Regottaz, former manager of Jimmy’z, the legendary Monaco nightclub, and Corrado Agusta, from the motorbike dynasty. They set out to create a landmark on Cap d’Ail; the outcome is a giant contemporary three-story grey edifice housing two restaurants, a terrace and Cargo de Nuit, a members’ bar, already buzzing with le tout Monaco. On the terrace: chic snacking and cocktails. The restaurant on the main deck has an open kitchen that overlooks the sea with uninterrupted views. Mahogany floors, grey wood, books on tables, tchotchkes, the walls covered with memorabilia and photos. A reproduction of the good ship A’Trego on a creaky wooden table. A long silver table d’hôte with candelabra, read: a dialogue of Starck design and vintage flea market finds. Tradi-Modern. Yes, you want to say, “Let’s party.” Wearing the whites is chef Laurent Sturbois, no stranger to the taste of the locals. Formerly at Hotel Columbus, he’s fed more Grand-Prix racing drivers than you’ve had hot dinners. And he’ll be welcoming them to A’Trego with a locavore menu and products showcasing the bounty of Provence. “As well as quelques extravagances.” Such as Les truffes râpées sur une brouillade d’oeufs et pain grillé. Carpaccio de melon & fines tranches de loup mariné, condiments Riviera aux baies de grenade for starters. Mains of fresh-caught loup à la plancha, émulsion d’huile d’olive bio, aubergines fondantes. Or the jet-set favorite, Tartare de boeuf…..”oui mais assaisonné devant vous! Accompagné selon votre envie.” Desserts include O Calorie – Gelée de menthe fraîche, soupe de framboises, Espuma de fromage blanc à la Stévia. Macaron exotique. Deconstructed Tarte Citron. A perfect match for Provence red, white or rosé wines or Perrier-Jouët Champagne, as served at the Monaco royal wedding. Why is it called A’Trego? Because the space was once home to Monsieur A’Trego the local fisherman. “Today we’ve created our poetic version of a fisherman’s hut, on the sea, for love, friends and sun. A’Trego is an extraordinary space, certainly our dream is realised, perhaps yours will be too,” grins Starck. “Come, we’re going to eat, drink and sing.” And with that he breaks into song. Access: At just 20 metres from Monaco, A’Trego is accessible, on foot or by car, from the Principality. Or by helicopter, the heliport is nearby and on the yacht, just sail into the Cap d’Ail Port (reserve at the Captainerie in advance: 04 93 78 28 46). Stay at the excellent Riviera Marriott, Cap d’Ail is the best advice. www.marriott.com Tél: 04 92 10 67 67 A’Trego Port de Cap d’Ail Tél: 04 93 28 58 22 Average Spend for 3 courses: 55€ + wine Shut Sunday night Qui Plume la Lune St….
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Born in Hampton, Middlesex, UK, Margaret Kemp is a lifestyle journalist, based between London, Paris and the world. Intensive cookery courses at The Cordon Bleu, London, a wedding gift from a very astute ex-husband, gave her the base that would take her travelling (leaving the astute one behind) in search of rare food and wine experiences, such as the vineyards of Thailand, 'gator hunting in South Florida, learning to make eye-watering spicy food in Kerala;pasta making in a tiny Tuscany trattoria. She has contributed to The Guardian, The Financial Times Weekend and FT. How To Spend It.com, The Spectator, Condé Nast Traveller, Food & Travel, and Luxos Magazine. She also advises as consultant to luxury hotels and restaurants. Over the years, Kemp has amassed a faithful following on BonjourParis. If she were a dish she'd be Alain Passard's Millefeuille “Caprice d'Enfant”, as a painting: Manet’s Dejeuner sur l’herbe !

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