Dejeuner sur l’herbe
All’s well at Les Climats, near Musée D’Orsay on rue de Lille, Julien Boscus (ex- Le Meurice, Pierre Gagnaire, Paris & Seoul, etc.) keeps the gorgeous gougères and welcome glass of Pinot Noir Crémant, Bailly Lapierre. His light, bright cuisine a perfect match for the bountiful Burgundy wines, the speciality de la maison.
Alert readers know that Les Climats is a project by Carole Colin and Burgundy born Denis Jamet, an hommage to the region’s fabulous wines.
Sommelier Franck-Emmanuel Mondésir is delighted to be part of the new team. « I’ve worked with Groupe Taillevent, Oth Sombath and La Maison Blanche, it’s fascinating to focus on one region, the better to know it. That doesn’t mean I shut my eyes to the others, he winks». In Mondésir ‘s Cave du Jour, 580 whites and 2,200 red, wait to be tasted.
The beautiful listed 1905 building, former Télegraph Brasserie and, before that, residence for lady singletons working for the PTT (telephone exchange) includes a bar for wine tastings and light snacks, lounge/restaurant/orangerie/winter garden and secret country garden, open for lunch only. Décor throughout the maison is by Bambi Sloan, read William Morris meets Sarah Bernhardt in 2014. Read, achingly cool and elegant.
At lunch, with Mondesir’s suggestion of Saint-Aubin Les Ebanpins Colin Morey 2011 choose Organic tomato salad, basil, studded with lomo ham, green mango, Ajo Bianco chilled almond soup on the side : Or, herb marinated Razor clams, tomato confit, Tuscany shell shaped lumachino pasta : Mains with Mondesir’s choice of red Givry « Pied de chaume » charnu et fruitée, Soblet 2011 : Rascasse, flash fried in olive oil, bouillabaisse broth, summer vegetables : mopped up with crusty Poujauran bread. And, for Ashton, Grilled Iberian Pluma, dauphine potatoes. So, very Mediterranean influenced for summer. Perfect, dans le jardin.
A great start at Les Climats for chef Boscus who leaves the pudds to Japanese pastry-maven Yukiko Sakka (ex-Mulot, ES rue de Grenelle & Gagnaire + Meilleur Dessert Lebey de la Gastronomie 2014). Yukiko’s light spin on summer strawberries and cream is paired with candied and fresh rhubarbe, verbena ice cream. Her witty desserts include creamy corn based crème brulèe, hazelnut and nectarine yogurt sorbet. Yum !
Why is it called Les Climats?
Sommelier Mondésir (delicious name, very poetic) explains that, in Burgundy one looks to the earth for “Les Climats”, not the sky! “In Burgundy vineyards “climat” describes the ‘terroir’: a parcel of land with its’ own characteristic soil and microclimat. Each winegrowing community in Burgundy has a great number of climats, which may be classified as Premier Cru: Grand Cru: or be unclassified. Use of climat names are strictly regulated and listed in Le Journal Official de la République Française, produced by the French Government.”
41 rue de Lille, 7th
M : Solferino
T : 01 58 62 10 08
And 12-18th August
Terrace open at lunch only
Lunch 36-42€ includes coffee + A La Carte
Dinner Menu Initiation 86€/123€ with wine pairings
Sandwich Balik Prunier
The ubiquitous sarnie : Named after John Montagu, 4th Earl of Sandwich, an 18th-century English aristo who ordered Jeeves to bring him meat tucked between two pieces of bread, and others followed, asking for, “the same as Sandwich!”. His Lordship liked this way of eating, it allowed him to continue playing cards, particularly cribbage, while eating, without using a fork, and his cards remained grease free.
At Café Prunier, the brand created in 1872 by Alfred Prunier, now owned by Pierre Bergé, the filling showcases sensual Balik salmon, fished in Norway, hand cured at Manufacture Balik located in the heart of a tiny Swiss village. The secret recipe dates back to the Russian Tsars and only MB have the recipe. The sweet sesame dotted bread is from the local Paris boulangerie.
Food for thought: Balik Farm features a state-of-the-art recording studio. Each year, Balik Farm Project offers winners of the Talent Competition at Montreaux Jazz Festival the opportunity to spend a week at Balik Farm to record a CD in its’ music studio. Balik offers targeted support to young talent, gives something back. Sweet !
Choose your sandwich from Tartare Balik (8€) or Saumon Balik (12€).
15, place de la Madeleine, 8th
T: 01 47 42 98 91
Ecua-Andino Panama Hats :
Darlings ! To stay cool as a cucumber on Le Climat’s terrace you’ll need a Panama Hat, customised just for you. 100% handmade in Ecuador, an artisan product as worn by Ecuadoran farmers for centuries, to-day, the must have summer accessory.
Katy Perry, singer, songwriter, actress, strutted her baby pink Ecua-Andino Panama during the recent Coachella Valley Music & Arts Festival, California, at the hip and happening Lacoste Party, where Moët & Chandon Ice Imperial Champagne flowed (the only champ made to be served on the rocks) to the likes of Katy Perry, Steven Tyler, Lana del Rey who lined up for gourmet Food Truck eats.
Get your Ecua-Andino in Paris :
14 rue Saint Blaise, 20th
T : 01 46 59 46 32
Because you’re worth it :
Hotel owner (La Tour d’Auvergne) Aldric Duval’s concept, of paying what you think your stay is worth, may be the next big thing in hôtellerie. Is it a good idea ? Answers on a post-card please : Note if you participate, you must pre-book.
Participating hotels :
Hôtel d’Auvergne 9th Rates from 130-195€
La Villa Bohême 9th Rates from 125-290€
Grand Hôtel Français 9th Rates from 150-200€
Villa Lamartine 9th Rates from 115 to 175€