Behind the Scenes with Paris Walks

There was a frisson of the spy novel about the instruction to meet outside Exit 1 of the Cardinal Lemoine métro station. A little group of us gathered, all looking round, wondering who was “one of us.” We were there to meet Chris Spence, a Paris Walks tour guide who was to take us around Hemingway’s Paris, and when he arrived we gathered round him expectantly. Chris was immediately endearing, slapping his forehead in mock frustration when he misdelivered the punchline to his opening joke. I felt straight away that it would be fun to tour this little corner of Paris with someone both knowledgeable and amusing. And so it proved.     

Chris took us past the places where Hemingway had lived and worked in his early days in Paris, reading a relevant extract here and putting a “fact” right there. The plaque, he explained, may say Hemingway lived at a particular address in Rue Cardinal Lemoine, but more accurately this was where the author had rented a freezing attic in which to work. The flat he shared with his first wife, Hadley Richardson, was just along the street. And in fact, Hemingway wasn’t as poor as he liked to imply, because he had regular payments from an American newspaper and could tap into Hadley’s family legacy. 

I enjoyed the asides at least as much as the Hemingway material. ‘Those yellow stickers,” explained Chris, “are for a City of Paris scheme to make sure big booksellers can’t undercut the small independent shops and drive them out of business.” I hadn’t expected an explanation of what happened to James II’s brain, once stored in a reliquary at the Collège Écossais in Rue du Cardinal Lemoine or of why the word “campus” for a university site may have originated here in the 5th arrondissement. I knew the Église Saint-Étienne du Mont was famous for its rood screen, but now I know what a rood screen is and why most of them were demolished.  “Look,” said Chris, pointing at the carved stone sign for Rue Neuve Geneviève, “do you know what word has been chiseled out?” I do now! 

It all set me wondering about Paris Walks and so I got in touch with Oriel Caine, co-founder with her husband Peter, of the company to find out more. What followed was not just an insight into the workings of this busy little company, but also a feast of information about Paris and what Oriel has learned from almost three decades of living there, building up the business and enjoying Paris and all it has to offer. Here’s what she told me when she kindly took a few moments to answer my questions.

Can you sum up what Paris Walks offers? 

We’ve been offering walks in historic neighborhoods of Paris, plus thematic tours and museum visits for nearly 30 years now. Some of our customers are new to Paris, and discover it with us, and many others already know the city and have visited the districts and museums before, but appreciate a deeper exploration with our knowledgeable guides.

How are the walks planned? 

All our guides love history and French culture and we all enjoy researching our own material. Personally, I like to do a lot of reading and also to walk around looking at things to get ideas and make connections. I use the internet a bit, then follow up by reading to check things. For the museum tours, I go to a lot of exhibitions and read catalogues. 

Which are most popular tours on the Paris Walks list? 

Those in the Marais and Montmartre, and also our themed tours such as the ones on the Revolution or the Occupation. And I shouldn’t forget our delightful chocolate tasting tour! 

Do you lead tours personally? 

Yes, I do my favorites!  They include the Louvre and the Orsay, the Marais and Montmartre, and some thematic tours such as Paris of the Impressionists and Josephine at the Château de Malmaison. But others lead tours too – we have some wonderful guides, many of whom have worked with us for years. 

What else is involved in running the company?   

Answering e-mails, advising clients, designing tours for people who ask for customized walks, looking after the guides’ needs, matching guides with clients, planning ahead. I also deliver our brochures to hotels, and other places – I enjoy walking round Paris and chatting to friendly hoteliers, bookshop owners and tourist office personnel who have known us for years and like to recommend us. 

Do you still walk around Paris for pleasure? 

I love walking round Paris. It’s my job but I never tire of the buzz I feel from the beauty of the architecture and the views. When I’m working at the Musée d’Orsay, I often get off the metro at Pyramides and walk through the Tuileries gardens and the footbridge across the river to the museum. It always gives me great pleasure and the light is superb. 

Which places do you like to visit in your free time? 

One of my favorite places is the Musée de Montmartre. It’s a quiet haven away from the crowds, with a secluded garden and ancient plum tree held up on crutches. It’s a lovely place to sit outside and have soup for lunch, or afternoon coffee at their café. Renoir’s painting, The Swing, was painted in the garden there. It’s now in the Musée d’Orsay. 

I also like the Pere Lachaise Cemetery, and I especially like to see the tombs of famous women such as Colette, Rosa Bonheur, Edith Piaf, Isadora Duncan and many others who deserve to be better known. 

Do you have a favorite restaurant? 

Yes, Le Hangar, a small scale, friendly, family-run restaurant near the Pompidou centre, in the Marais. Their pommes Duchesse is particularly good. I also like to have a glass of Chablis or Brouilly with a friend at a café where there’s a nice view. Sitting at a café on the Rue des Abbesses in Montmartre is a great pleasure for me with some good conversation and a laugh with friends. 

How might you spend a morning – or afternoon! – at leisure in Paris? 

I’d buy a book from the Red Wheelbarrow bookshop and then take it into the Luxembourg Gardens to read. I love these gardens and am happy to stroll round enjoying the mixture of flowers, terraces, pools, statues (including the statue of Liberty) and locals playing tennis or chess. The Red Wheelbarrow bookshop has a wide choice of books in English, and there is always something of interest there, whether engrossing new fiction or perhaps one of the many books on Paris history. Penelope, from Canada, who runs it is an endearing character – friendly and enthusiastic. 

And what about if you could be transported to another era for a day? What would you choose to do in Paris of the past? 

I would enjoy taking tea with Colette the writer. I would take her to Valentin, an old-fashioned tea-room in the Passage Jouffroy, a covered arcade which is delightful especially at Christmas. There are some lovely shops for Christmas presents, including one which specializes in Christmas decorations. At Valentin, the moelleux au chocolat – a cake – is divine! I’m sure Colette would regale me with lively conversation and spicy anecdotes. 

 

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And finally, what’s your top tip for enjoying walking in Paris? Apart from doing a Paris Walk, that is? 

I think everyone visiting Paris should have a street plan, and a metro and bus map and be ready to take public transport or go on foot to get round. This way you get to know the city and experience it like a local.  

Agreed!  You speak like a true flâneuse. Thank you, Oriel, for your inspiration on so many different aspects of Paris. 

DETAILS

For more information, visit: https://www.paris-walks.com/indexm.html  

Paris Walks offers a varied program of guided walks, including specialist chocolate and fashion tours and accompanied visits to the Louvre and the Musée d’Orsay. They also offer private tours by arrangement and bespoke tours for special interest groups.