The Essential Guide to the 10th Arrondissement

The 10th arrondissement is perhaps best known as the home of the Canal Saint-Martin, a pleasure canal that survived potential destruction in the ‘60s following threats of highway construction along its route from Bastille to the Canal de l’Ourcq. Luckily, the project was abandoned in 1971, and today, the canal has become the pulse of the neighborhood. In summer, locals love to find a spot along its banks for an apéro or picnic; in winter, its bridges provide beautiful views of the night sky. 

Canal aside, the 10th may well be defined as much by what it’s not as what it is. Sandwiched among trendy neighborhoods like SoPi to the west, the 11th to the east, and the North Marais to the south, the 10th manages at once to be quieter than its hipster neighbors and to showcase the best of what they have to offer. Here, you’ve got nearly as many contemporary restaurants and bohemian wine bars, though you can also take advantage of the host of international enclaves that call the neighborhood home. Little India sprawls around Passage Brady, and La Chapelle is home to a host of Sri Lankan immigrants, food shops, and restaurants, while Château d’Eau is Paris’s capital of Black barbers, hairstylists, and shops. And if that weren’t enough, the 10th is also home to two of the city’s biggest train stations and two of its best covered markets.

Where to Eat 

The 10th is bubbling over with creative artisans and chefs, and there’s no shortage of great places to eat. For breakfast, my personal picks include: 

• 5 Pailles (79, Rue du Faubourg Saint-Denis) whose brunch is my favorite in Paris, thanks both to the fact that it’s on the demure side (no 35-euro prix fixe here!) and the fact that it’s delicious (particularly the Turkish eggs with yogurt, avocado, brioche, and loads of herbs and spices.) 

At lunch, you’ve similarly got loads of options, depending on the vibe you seek. For something more casual, I love: 

• Faste (52, rue du Faubourg Saint-Martin) for copious croques monsieur with a range of fillings. Get your own or split a few – you can even buy halves! 

• Le Daily Syrien (72 Rue Faubourg Saint-Denis), which is my go-to for phenomenal falafel 

• Chez Ibo (218 Rue Saint Maur), perhaps the only place still doing a Turkish shawarma with a lamb base left in the capital.

For French-style fare, I love: 

• Brasserie Bellanger (140, rue du Faubourg Poissonnière), a neo-brasserie from the Nouvelle Garde group that serves my favorite French onion soup and leek-vinaigrette in the city. 

• Café les Deux Gares (1 Rue des Deux Gares), whose lunchtime prix fixe is a delicious steal at 21 euros for two courses or 25 for three. (Dinner here is also excellent.) 

• Chez Jeanette (47, rue du Faubourg Saint-Denis), which also has a great lunchtime prix fixe and transforms into a vibey natty-wine-and-small-plates spot by night. 

• Sur Mer (53, rue de Lancry) for freshly shucked oysters and wine in the sunshine. 

I’ll try to keep my dinner recommendations list short and sweet, but there are loads more where these came from! 

• Les Arlots (36 Rue du Faubourg Poissonnière), a tiny pocketbook of a bistro that’s rightfully famous for its saucisse-purée, but I also love the house-made terrine. 

• Fellows (84, rue du Faubourg Saint-Denis) is yet another ‘grammable place I totally validate. The fresh pasta here is excellent, and mains hover at around 10 euros a plate. 

• ChoCho (54, rue du Paradis) whose playful, innovative menu changes constantly, but there’s always a plat à saucer: the restaurant’s signature dish of sauces designed to be scooped up with a house-made roll. 

• Chez Marius (11 Rue de Chabrol) is an ultra-creative osteria known for its ever-changing offal-focused menu and phenomenal fresh pasta 

• Amore Mio (31 bis, rue Louis Blanc) for incredibly fluffy pizzas that are super generous when it comes to toppings. 

And for dessert? You’re in the right place. 

• Di Giu (34, rue des Vinaigriers) a pastry shop founded by Italian Giuseppe Gigiuro who blends Italian flavors and French technique for creations like a Paris-Turin that revisits the Paris-Brest with chocolate and gianduja. 

• JJ Hings (46, rue Bichat) home to some of the city’s best and most creative ice cream (think sourdough bread ice cream with caramelized bread and Vegemite caramel or melon-fromage blanc soft serve). 

• William Artigue (30, rue Yves Toudic), a seasonally-driven chocolatier with some of the tastiest pâtes de fruit in the capital.

Where to Shop 

Shopping in the 10th is concentrated along a few major thoroughfares. Rue de Lancry is a hub of commerces de bouche like a high-end butchershop Viande & Chef (38) and beautiful cheese shop La Crèmerie (41) as well as bookshop La Plume Vagabonde (32) and stationery shop Lancryer (34). Just around the corner, rue de Marseille draws lovers of on-trend fashion brands with shops like APC Marseille (5), Centre Commercial (2), and Agnès B (13). And on rue des Vinaigriers, you’ll find beautiful vintage pottery and ceramics at Blanche Patine (29), while those who love second-hand books won’t be able to resist a comb through the precariously stocked shelves at secondhand bookshop Philippe le Libraire (32).

On the rue du Faubourg Saint-Denis, meanwhile, you’ll find a host of high-end vintage shops like Rolling Fripe (103) or Brut Clothing (63), and if you nip down the rue de Paradis, you’ll find gems like Delphine Béhin, a woman-run workshop selling gorgeous hand-made jewelry. 

 

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Finally, it would be impossible to talk about shopping in the 10th without referencing its two covered markets. The Marché Saint-Martin is the smaller of the two and nevertheless boasts primeur, fromager, poissonnier and more. There are also a few on-site restaurants including the Moroccan Casba and Japanese MichaYa. The adjacent streets are also a go-to for local shoppers thanks to Les Saintes Chéries (29, rue Bouchardon) with its jewelry and trinkets and quirky gift shop A l’Imparfait (24 rue du Château d’Eau).

The Marché Saint-Quentin is a far more imposing market along boulevard Magenta, home to no fewer than three cheese shops, loads of produce purveyors, a bar, and a phenomenal wine shop, Vitis Vinifera, which specializes in lost and nearly-lost grape varieties. An array of tables at one end of the market makes it easy for you to feast on your spoils on-site.

What to See 

You can’t really visit the 10th without a wander along the Canal, which was built in the late 1810s and early 1820s following a plan of Napoléon Bonaparte’s to link the 16th-century Ourcq canal and the Seine at Bastille, bringing clean water to the masses. The Canal was partially covered during the Haussmannian renovation of Paris in the 1860s, but from rue du Faubourg du Temple to the Canal de l’Ourcq, it remains uncovered and a joy to discover on foot thanks to its picturesque bridges. 

Many venture to the 10th for its two train stations: Gare de l’Est and Gare du Nord. And even if you’re not taking a train to Champagne or London, it’s worth taking in the imposing neo-classical buildings. And speaking of impressive structures, the 10th also boasts two massive stone 17th-century archways, which once marked the edge of the city limits of Paris. (The word faubourg, which gets added to the rues Saint-Martin and Saint-Denis once they pass through these arches, is a reference to these outer villages that have since been absorbed into Paris proper.) 

One of my favorite secret spots in the 10th is the Françoise Sagan Library (8, Rue Léon Schwartzenberg), which boasts a beautifully leafy inner courtyard, and don’t miss a meander along place Sainte-Marthe, a cute, hidden square that was once the hub of a working class district. Today, the streets around it boast loads of colorful storefronts to wander into, home to bistros, bars, and artisan workshops. 

 

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What to Do 

Aside from eating and shopping, perhaps the biggest draw to the 10th is its theaters. The faubourgs have always been known for their beautiful salles de spectacle, and there are still over a dozen left in the area. The Italianate Théâtre de la Renaissance (20, boulevard Saint-Martin) has all the glitz of a mini Opéra Garnier and is often home to renowned contemporary shows like Alexis Michalik’s Passeport, while the slightly simpler Le Splendid (48, rue du Faubourg Saint-Martin) is known for its comedies. The Louxor is a massive neo-Egyptian-style cinema showing both old and contemporary films. 

And that’s just the beginning! Art lovers should definitely swing by the Villa du Lavoir (70, rue René Boulanger) to discover the dozen-or-so artisan workshops devoted to everything from ceramics to stained glass, while photography lovers can slip into a gallery transformed from former public baths at Douches de la Galerie (5 rue Legouvé). 

 

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Nightlife 

The rue du Faubourg Saint-Denis is always hopping with activity come nightfall, and whether you want a simple glass of natural wine at Chez Jeanette (47) or a craft cocktail at Le Syndicat (51), you’re sure to find what you’re looking for here. If you’d rather have apéro nearer to the canal, Carburant (60, rue De Lancry) and Brussels Beer Project (47bis, rue Bichat) are destinations for craft beers on tap. You’ll find natural wine with divey vibes at the airy L’Agence (36 rue des Vinaigriers) and a slightly more refined approach paired with small plates at La Retraite (55, rue des Vinaigriers). On rue de Lancry, Le Cinquante (50) is a go-to for Sunday evening singalongs with a divey but welcoming vibe.  

As it gets a bit later, music lovers will want to head to Point Éphémère (200, quai de Valmy), a cultural center known for exhibits, drag shows, and concerts overlooking the canal. Or you could venture to the Alhambra (21, rue Yves Toudic), a more traditional music hall with a wide range of concerts from rock to jazz to world music.

Did I miss any of your favorite 10th arrondissement spots? Let me know in the comments! 

 

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