Flâneries in Paris: Explore La Madeleine and its Environs

   2014    6
Flâneries in Paris: Explore La Madeleine and its Environs
This is the fifth in a series of walking tours highlighting the sites and stories of diverse districts of Paris. An unplanned moment can be unexpectedly uplifting. I popped into La Madeleine on a weekday afternoon and found a choir rehearsing, so I sat down to listen. Thirty or so faces looked past me down the nave, set in the concentration it must take to send such glorious sounds soaring up to the ceiling. Behind them on the altar, the stunning white marble statue, “Mary Magdalene ascending,” portrayed angels lifting Mary to Heaven, all set against the marble pillars and blue and gold fresco on the back wall of the church. The fresco has an unusual element, one which points to the very particular history of La Madeleine as a church which also has secular roots. It illustrates the history of Christianity, but centrally placed among the apostles and saints is someone you don’t expect to find: Napoleon. He is portrayed receiving the Concordat, the agreement signed between him and the pope in 1801, reestablishing church-state relations after the revolution. It’s a reminder that La Madeleine has a place in secular history and plays a prominent role in the life of the city, for example as a favorite venue for society weddings and high-profile funerals. Église de la Madeleine drawing, Henri Le Secq, Public Domain Near the exit, I found more evidence of this duality. The text of Mother Teresa’s life- affirming prayer, which begins “La vie est une chance, saisis-la” (“Life is an opportunity, seize it”) was prominently displayed on a marble slab and just underneath it, at least on the day of my visit, was a little collection of flowers and photographs as a reminder of Johnny Hallyday’s funeral in December 2017. I remembered that a million Parisians lined the streets to throw flowers at the hearse as it made its way to La Madeleine, flanked by bikers on Harley-Davidsons. Chopin’s funeral was also held here, in 1849, amid some controversy. He had requested that Mozart’s requiem be sung, but female voices were required, something which had never been permitted by the church authorities who only relented when it was agreed that they would sing from behind a black velvet curtain. La Madeleine Johnny Hallyday display © Marian Jones
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Lead photo credit : Madeleine circa 1890s, Public Domain

More in Flâneries in Paris, La Madeleine, Marché aux Fleurs, Mary Magdalene, Mother Theresa, Napoleon, The Maison de la Truffe, Women who shaped Paris

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After a career teaching Modern Languages (French and German), Marian turned to freelance writing and is now a member of the British Guild of Travel Writers, specializing in all things French and – especially! – Parisian. She’s in Paris as often as possible, visiting places old and new, finding out their stories and writing it all up as soon as she gets home. She also runs the podcast series City Breaks, offering in-depth coverage of popular city break destinations, with lots of background history and cultural information. The Paris series currently has 22 episodes, but more will surely follow when time allows!

Comments

  • Paul Figueroa
    2022-05-07 02:51:51
    Paul Figueroa
    My goodness! La Madeleine is my favorite district in Paris and I was fortunate enough to have stayed for two weeks in a lovely apartment on rue Tronchet steps from the church. But I'm sad to learn that I missed some of these places but excited to see them the next time we are there. I love your writing so thank you for these.

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    • Marian Jones
      2022-05-07 12:40:18
      Marian Jones
      Thank you for your kind comments. I'm glad you enjoyed the piece. I'm sure you noticed things I didn't, and I'm glad to have given you some ideas for things to look out for next time!

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  • Pam Hughes
    2022-05-06 04:25:10
    Pam Hughes
    I loved this description of La Madeline and your walk. I miss Paris.

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    • Marian Jones
      2022-05-07 12:41:20
      Marian Jones
      Glad you enjoyed it, and thank you for taking the time to comment. I hope you will get back to Paris again soon.

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  • Ed Cobleigh
    2022-05-05 07:01:58
    Ed Cobleigh
    Ms. Jones, I thoroughly enjoy your strolls around Paris. Below is a link to the Bonjour Paris edition which features my own attempts at knowing a small part of Paris https://bonjourparis.com/lifestyle/chasing-hemingway-in-paris/

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    • Marian Jones
      2022-05-07 12:49:49
      Marian Jones
      Ah yes, Hemingway's Paris. ..... I keep meaning to do as you did, and walk in his footsteps, so I looked up your piece and enjoyed it very much. Thank you too for your kind comments - I'm glad you enjoy the 'strolls'. I did one recently from Saint Sulpice to Saint Germain, which took me right past the 2 Magots, so I hope to write that up as a future flânerie.

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