Bocuse, Eclipses, Le Faham and More Great Paris Restaurants

10 October 2019 by Margaret Kemp    2532    2
Bocuse, Eclipses, Le Faham and More Great Paris Restaurants
Margaret Kemp
By Margaret Kemp
“Cooking will never be good if it isn’t made with love for the person it’s being made for.” –Paul Bocuse Brasserie du Louvre – Bocuse Wearing traditional black livery and long starched white aprons, the wait staff are scurrying around the recently opened Brasserie Bocuse, skillfully balancing silver salvers on shoulders, as they have since 1855 when the first Grand Hotel opened opposite the Louvre. Slide into a banquette; the occasion merits a flute of Veuve Cliquot champagne (€25). Chef Dennis Bellon’s menu seamlessly transports Mr. Paul’s Lyon to Paris with the likes of soothing onion soup (€13), warm sausage brioche (€14), Pike Quenelles with sauce Nantua (€31), Pan fried Lyon style calf’s liver (€29) – selection du sommelier – Saint Joseph “Le Grand Pompée” from Paul Jaboulet Ainé 2016 (€11.40, €57.50), Bresse chicken “Mieral,” cream and mushrooms (€32), Limousin beef tartare and chips (€22). Don’t miss the perfectly ripe Saint Marcellin from La Mère Richard and wonderful waffles Grandmere with chantilly (€12) and Rum Baba – perfection ! Hôtel du Louvre, 1, place André Malraux, 1st Metro: Palais Royal Musée du Louvre Tel: +33 (0)1 44 58 37 21 Open 7/7. All day service Get a Room – from €450 Le Faham A love story. Cheffe Kelly Rangama (Ferrandi, former Top Chef 2017 candidate, Michel Portos & L’Arôme) and her husband pastry chef Jérôme Devreese (Prince des Galles, La Réserve, Le Bristol). It’s their passion to showcase the finest products, from Kelly’s La Réunion home and Jérome’s Burgundy, that led to the recent launch of Le Faham (named for a type of orchid). It’s an airy, contemporary, 32-seater space, with open kitchen, zen attitude, fabulous wines and convivial sharing table for 8. Dishes are market driven. Sublime signatures include “Sarcives de la Réunion” marinated pork, taro mousseline, coriander (Kelly’s dad’s recipe); Légine (sea-bass type of white fish) sweet/sour carrots and ginger, tomatoes; and tatin, cinnamon, sweet potato dessert. Wines by the glass cost €6; we enjoyed Pinot Gris 2015 from Cyril Houzé de Champvallon. “I’m really happy we discovered that on a recent trip,” smiles Jérôme suggesting a parting glass of Rum infused with Faham flowers – for the road. 108 rue Cardinet, 17th Metro: La Fourche/Wagram Tel: +33 (0)1 53 81 48 18 Lunch €32-€69 Tasting Menu €69 + A La Carte Closed Sunday-Monday Le Jules Verne “I was at Jamin with Monsieur Robuchon for seven years on rue de Longchamp. I took my breaks in the Trocadéro Gardens and admired Eiffel’s Tower, musing as to the possibility of working up there on the second floor! Now I’m Jules Verne’s executive chef, heading a staff of 130, ah destiny!,” sighs Frédéric Anton (MOF) who hails from Contrexéville, in the Vosges region. So, not only a new chef at Le Jules Verne, but new decor, by architect Aline Asmar d’Amman, showcasing the works of author Jules Verne (Around the World in Eighty Days) in many intricate ways. Discover all in one of the three spaces, “Trocadéro,” “Champs de Mars”, “Paris.” (Don’t tell; the best table’s No. 26, dubbed “the King’s Table.”) Open 7/7 for lunch, dinner and soon serving the most romantic breakfasts in town. And yes, chef Anton still helms the *** Michelin Le Pré Catalan; he nips between them both. “I can see Pre Catalan’s roof from here – and from there I see the Eiffel Tower, fabulous n’est ce pas!?” A La Carte menu, 3 courses, €105 + wine Extraordinary Voyages, tasting menus from €190-€230 + wine Head in the stars dinner from 6pm-7pm-9pm Le Jules Verne, 2nd floor of the Eiffel Tower, Relais & Chateaux Avenue Gustave Eiffel, 7th Metro: Bir Hakeim – Valet Parking. Access by VIP lift from the South Piller Plaza Athénée – Brunch Bien-Etre The hotel’s breakfasts are legendary; not a lot of people know there’s a dedicated team, headed by “Breakfast Director” Antoine Lair. Now Antoine and Co. present “Well Being Brunch,” a fresh, wholesome and nutritious concept served in the sumptuous Patrick Jouin/Sanjit Manku dining room every Saturday from 12-1:15pm (€110 per person) with dishes by chefs Angelo Musa, Philippe Marc and Guillaume Cabrol. Begin on the right note with cucumber, mint, lime and ginger detox water. The menu includes a healthy selection of Atelier Nubo organic drinks, baker Guillaume Cabrol’s freshly-baked breads, house made plant butters, Rocamadour goat cheese from Ferme de la Coste, egg white omelettes, mile high kuglof cake, poke bowls, oats, acai bowls and salads. To, finish seasonal fruits, chia puddings and quinoa desserts. By the way Antoine Lair never forgets his first service at the Plaza A. “42 years ago and who was in? “David Bowie!” Oh la la! And consider: Healthy Brunch and 60-minute treatment (€320) at the Dior Institute Spa. Because you’re worth it! 27 Avenue Montaigne, 8th Tel: +33 (0)1 53 67 66 65 Metro: Alma Marceau Valet Parking Eclipses “I never asked for extra sauce in a restaurant ever,” declared the fashionista on the next table at this recently opened, left bank, definite-destination address. Cyril Choisne has a definite signature, having honed his craft with the likes of chefs Christian…
  • SUBSCRIBE
  • ALREADY SUBSCRIBED?

Lead photo credit : courtesy of Brasserie du Louvre- Bocuse.

Previous Article French Film Review: Nicolas Boukhrief’s Trois Jours et Une Vie
Next Article Streets and Stories: Passage Brady, Little India, in Paris

By Margaret Kemp

Born in Hampton, Middlesex, UK, Margaret Kemp is a lifestyle journalist, based between London, Paris and the world. Intensive cookery courses at The Cordon Bleu, London, a wedding gift from a very astute ex-husband, gave her the base that would take her travelling (leaving the astute one behind) in search of rare food and wine experiences, such as the vineyards of Thailand, 'gator hunting in South Florida, learning to make eye-watering spicy food in Kerala;pasta making in a tiny Tuscany trattoria. She has contributed to The Guardian, The Financial Times Weekend and FT. How To Spend It.com, The Spectator, Condé Nast Traveller, Food & Travel, and Luxos Magazine. She also advises as consultant to luxury hotels and restaurants. Over the years, Kemp has amassed a faithful following on BonjourParis. If she were a dish she'd be Alain Passard's Millefeuille “Caprice d'Enfant”, as a painting: Manet’s Dejeuner sur l’herbe !

Comments

  • Margaret Kemp
    2019-10-28 05:08:55
    Margaret Kemp
    I don't think it's insane - a flute of perfection in a luxurious setting. Quand on aime on ne comte pas! Cheers, MK.

    REPLY

  • Randy Rankle
    2019-10-10 19:29:17
    Randy Rankle
    25 Euros for a glass of Champagne at the Brasserie du Louvre is pretty insane. And it's hard to see the interest of this place now that Bocuse is no longer with us.

    REPLY