Paris Pastry: The Extraordinary Bûches de Noël 2019

2 December 2019 by Margaret Kemp    4456  
Paris Pastry: The Extraordinary Bûches de Noël 2019
Margaret Kemp
By Margaret Kemp
One of our favorite things about the holiday season in Paris is the bûche de Noël, the Christmas yule log. The city’s pastry chefs craft beautiful and creative twists on this traditional dessert. Here we present the best of 2019. Want to see more? Check out the 2016, 2017 and 2018 bûches de Noël designed by top Paris pastry chefs. Le Plaza Athenée Angelo Muso (MOF) and Alexandre Dufeu’s bucolic, limited-edition log could have come direct from the forest. The outside is chocolate worked as tree bark, the dark chocolate interior yields textures and flavors of refreshing citrus fruits. “We’ve improved on nature”, say the two chefs. “And we’re very conscious to have been very stingy with the sugar!” For six people, €120. Order on tel: 01 53 67 65 97 or by email at [email protected] Maison Hugo & Victor Choose from a magical collection inspired by chef Hugues Pouget’s Asiatic travels (he has outposts in Tokyo, Seoul, Dubai). Bûche Mystereyuzu (6 people, €99) covered with a delicate lace cage. La Bûche Envelope (6 people €50) – dedicated to Victor Hugo. Montezuma (6-people €55). And “La Bûche K”(no flour), the fabulous Konatsu lemon, cream and pineapple, is presented in a handsome caviar tin (€59). All available at: 40, Boulevard Raspail, 7th. Tel: 01 44 39 97 73. Open 25th December & 1st January. The Ritz Paris While you’re choosing last minute essentials (Ritz Monopoly, anyone?) in the Concept Store (from the 1st-24th December) stop at Bar Vendôme and taste pastry chef François Perret’s yule log interpretation (€25 per person) with a flute of champagne. And, from 7 December-5 January, rendezvous on Place Vendôme at Perret’s Alpine chalet for signature tastings and creamy hot chocolate. The bûche is hazelnut Gianduja and black chocolate Carupano (€70) topped with a spiral of gold leaf and chocolate. “Inspired by skiing through a snow storm in Les Arcs”, says Perret. For six-eight people, €110. 15 place Vendome, 1st L’Hotel du Collectionneur With the wacky world of Lewis Carroll in mind, the young and talented Bryan Esposito’s work of art, La Büche Enchan-Thé, is an edible teapot! Lift the lid and discover a creamy tea mousse – Thé Noir by Palais des Thés – marinated hot wine orange marmalade on a soft madeleine base, finished off with creamy chocolate-rose. Chef Esposito recommends Thé Noir No. 25 by Palais des Thés to match. Available from 14-25th December – order 72 hours in advance, it’ll feed six hungry mad hatters and costs €72. Tel: 01 58 36 67 97 or email: [email protected]. Address: 51-57 rue de Courcelles, 8th. Pierre Hermé For “Hidden Treasures” his eclectic collection “the Picasso of Pâtisserie” showcases “Beaux Arts” packaging – created with set designer Marjorie Colas. “Green and gold depict purity, nature and herbs”, he says. Nibble the addictive macarons, chestnut and black wheat, pine and cedar, citron caviar (€2.50 each) while choosing from Haute-Pâtisserie bûches such as the Piedmont hazelnut iced “Inifiniment Praliné Glacé” (€71 for six people) or, covered with paper lace, “Bûche Ultime” (€75 for six people). Le Bristol Julien Alvarez – World Champion Pastry Chef 2011 – stamps the iconic palace hotel’s coat of arms on his limited edition “key to the kingdom bûche”. The base is crunchy, with hints of vanilla, roasted beans, caramelized, white and dark chocolate. And the “25” reminds you when to eat it! Priced at €110, it’s made to order from Le Bristol’s Café Antonia. To order, email [email protected] Maison Sève This talented family of passionate chocolate makers recently launched a museum, the 2020 version of Charlie and the Chocolate Factory. Order from the online boutique until 31st December. Mandarin Oriental Paris Pastry chef Adrien Bozzolo takes his inspiration from the Gilles & Boissier “Apartment Parisien”, the Mandarin O’s brand new suite. The bûche is a tribute to happy childhood memories of toys, trains and, of course, lots of chocolate. Limited edition (€98 for eight people), order 48h ahead from 20-26th December 2019 on Tel: 01 70 98 74 00 or taste in house €15 – to go – €8. Yum! La Manufacture Alain Ducasse Alain Ducasse’s signature masterpiece for Christmas is a “build your own Christmas tree.” Available in either – milk/dark chocolate (€52) – or a mendiant (nuts and raisins) version with organic cereals, dried fruits and caramelized almonds (€59).
 Available until 31st December from 40 rue de la Roquette, 11th. Eric Kayser Predicts a wild Xmas with La Bûche Café Leopard to a biscuit base, infused with fair trade coffee, add crunchy chocolate, mousse and coffee creme brûlée. Priced from €27-€52, according to size, or €5 for the individual bûche portion. You can tell from the buzzing boutiques that everything Kayser creates is super delicious, made with the finest ingredients. And, while you’re there, pick up a few loaves of chestnut bread – perfect with the foie gras if you…
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Lead photo credit : Bûche de Noël at Hotel Plaza Athenée. Photo: studio des fleurs

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By Margaret Kemp

Born in Hampton, Middlesex, UK, Margaret Kemp is a lifestyle journalist, based between London, Paris and the world. Intensive cookery courses at The Cordon Bleu, London, a wedding gift from a very astute ex-husband, gave her the base that would take her travelling (leaving the astute one behind) in search of rare food and wine experiences, such as the vineyards of Thailand, 'gator hunting in South Florida, learning to make eye-watering spicy food in Kerala;pasta making in a tiny Tuscany trattoria. She has contributed to The Guardian, The Financial Times Weekend and FT. How To Spend It.com, The Spectator, Condé Nast Traveller, Food & Travel, and Luxos Magazine. She also advises as consultant to luxury hotels and restaurants. Over the years, Kemp has amassed a faithful following on BonjourParis. If she were a dish she'd be Alain Passard's Millefeuille “Caprice d'Enfant”, as a painting: Manet’s Dejeuner sur l’herbe !

Comments

  • Anne Marie Risquez-Tomasyan
    2019-12-06 14:58:40
    Anne Marie Risquez-Tomasyan
    Great article, but the pictures were incorrectly inserted above their write-up. This error was found from the top till La Réserve. From Bo&Mie everything was in the correct order. It just made reading and enjoying your article much harder. Happy Holidays...

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