Letter from Paris: September 2, 2026 News Digest

This week marks la rentrée, the nation-wide back-to-school (and back-to-work) moment that functions as a massive societal “reset” after a relaxing summer vacation. Businesses reopen after August closures, the cultural calendar is packed with new events, and Parisians focus on a fresh start as they organize their schedules and start new gym regimens. For students, French high schools are rushing to to put President Macron’s mobile phone ban into effect. As reported by the Guardian, “Education unions warned that banning mobile phone use in lycées – where children are aged 15 to 18 – would be hard to implement quickly. Macron approved the high school phone ban this month after another measure he had hoped would be a key legacy, his proposed social media ban for under-15s, was knocked back as unconstitutional.”

The skyscraper that everyone loves to malign — you know, the ugly eyesore that’s one of the tallest buildings in Paris — is the subject of a feud between co-owners that’s causing all kinds of problems for the planned renovation. Le Monde reports that the Tour Montparnasse project was supposed to start in the spring, and it’s now been derailed, lacking the support of one of the owners — apparently because they no longer like the design proposed by Nouvelle AOM architects’ collective, which won the competition in 2017.

“The future of the skyscraper hangs in the balance, as the countdown had begun: if construction does not start before the end of November, the building permit will expire and the entire operation will be scrapped. The Socialist mayor of Paris, Emmanuel Grégoire, has had to remind the co-owners of their responsibilities. The project is privately funded, but its urban scale and symbolic significance make it a matter of clear public interest.” Read the full article here.

Speaking of feuds, have you heard about the one at the Opéra Garnier? For those of us who adore the Marc Chagall ceiling fresco, it comes as some surprise to learn that there’s an effort to unveil a previous work that was painted over. To quote Le Monde: “In 1960, French Culture Minister André Malraux commissioned a painting from artist Marc Chagall to modernize the ceiling of the Opéra Garnier, thereby concealing the 19th-century work of Jules-Eugène Lenepveu. The controversial decision reflected a battle between two visions of cultural heritage, and today, one of Lenepveu’s descendants is determined to restore his ancestor’s creation.”

A butter boutique has opened in Paris, much to the delight of local gourmands and foodie travelers. Now instead of lining up at La Grande Epicerie to stock up on fatty delights (vacuum sealed for flights), you can head to Le Butter Shop near the Eiffel Tower. As described by the Associated Press, “the contradiction of the trim Parisian and the butter croissant now has a storefront.” The store sells 30 types from small producers in Brittany, Normandy, and the Loire Valley. You can taste spoonfuls of different varieties, like seaweed and shallot, before making your purchase.

To quote the AP, “France eats around 8 kilograms (18 pounds) of butter per person a year, so says the agriculture ministry. It’s among the most in the world. Yet the home of Chanel and Dior keeps an obesity rate well below the average for wealthy nations — 14%, compared to an average of 19% for the developed countries that make up the Organization for Economic Cooperation and Development.” Read the full article here.

Céline Dion has landed in Paris, prior to her sold-out concert residency, and Vogue says she’s “turning the streets of Paris into her runway.” She’s staying at Le Royal Monceau—Raffles Paris, a palace hotel designed by Philippe Starck in the 8th arrondissement, and adoring fans are lining up outside to catch a glimpse of the superstar clad in all kinds of fun couture looks, from a Tom Ford leather jacket over shorts and knee boots to an Alaïa trench. Her first concert will take place at the at the Plenitude Arena on September 12. More details in Anne McCarthy’s article.

To mark the occasion, Pierre Hermé Paris has launched a limited-edition collection of macarons inspired by the Dion’s “personal tastes and memories.” The gift box of eight will be unveiled in a preview on September 3 at Galeries Lafayette Paris Haussmann, and then available starting September 11 at Pierre Hermé Paris boutiques.

During recent meetings between President Macron and Saudi Crown Prince Mohammed bin Salman, the two countries announced a “raft of deals” including “plans for a six-billion-euro ($7bn) amusement park near Paris,” explains Al Jazeera. The Paris Region is already home to the very popular Disneyland Paris, along with Parc Astérix, and soon there will be a manga-themed one as well.

We’ll leave you with this image of a giant catfish being released back in the Seine. Still haven’t been for a dip? You’ll have to wait until next year. Seine River swimming closed for the season on August 30, 2026.