Gagnaire at Les Airelles, Bistro de Breteuil, Michelin NYC 2013, Salon du Chocolat & Give Vines for Christmas Buzz

13 October 2012 by Margaret Kemp    924  
Gagnaire at Les Airelles, Bistro de Breteuil, Michelin NYC 2013, Salon du Chocolat & Give Vines for Christmas Buzz
Margaret Kemp
By Margaret Kemp
“It’s fifteen years since we arrived in Paris”, recalled 3-star superchef Pierre Gagnaire, one day last week, the very day Michelin Great Britian and Ireland 2013 announced the second star for Sketch his luscious London addy. Gagnaire, hasn’t had an easy ride for such a talent, remember, he went belly up in Saint Etienne and thought he’d cooked his goose. But the boy bounced back, says it’s all good now. “In May, I climbed the red carpet stairs of the Palais des Festivals, Cannes, watched all the films and cooked for my favourite directors, actors and musicians, a dream come true, he sighs”. “I’m in Dubai, Moscow and Las Vegas now, he says rubbing his salt and pepper stubble, as if he’ll wake up soon, smell the coffee. “I’m also at Les Airelles, Courchevel, a breath of fresh air. It’s in the heart of an alpine garden, in the spirit of the grand chalets of the past. Located beside the slopes, it’s ski in – ski out. And, snow valets are on hand to assist with equipment, guide guests through the Trois Vallées, one of the greatest ski areas in the world”, notes Gagnaire. My cooking’s like jazz, it’s improvised”, he continues. To-day we’ve got Féra from Lac Leman, so I’m treating it as I would if I were in the mountains: Meunière”. Who’s going to argue with that? And it’s paired with ravioli made with waxy Belle de Fontenay potatoes, watercress and cèpes. Washed down with Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru Clos Saint Jean G. Amiat 2009. The starter’s Coeur d’Artichaut/lettuce leaf: tender first walnuts, grated Gruyère de Garde, tome de Carayac, céleri branche. A side of reine de reinette apple crème glacée and a touch of mirabelle. Sublime! Gagnaire knows how starving a ski-day makes you, even if, to-day, Ashton and me have only hiked to the summit of his rue Balzac flagship. He adds another main of melt in the mouth semi-confit oregano spiked veau fermier. fragments of foie gras, fondue d’oseille à la moutarde Fallot, tops it with raw organic paper thin slices of beetroot see photo.  Dream on! And you will after the Monthélie 1er cru Les Duresses Domaine des Comtes Lafon 2008. To finish – Les desserts Pierre Gagnaire. Take your time – Prends le Temps says the neon installation by Fabian Chala in the entrance to the restaurant. I will, I will. Pierre Gagnaire pour Les Airelles,At Le Jardin Alpine,LOV Hotel Collection,Courchevel 1850And Spa Cellcosmet for Him & HerMenus 170. 240. 290 (truffles)A La Carte 300-400€T: 04 79 00 38 38 Pierre Gagnaire,6 rue Balzac, 8thM: George VT: 01 58 36 12 50 Parisiens know Bistro de Breteuil, it’s what French foodies call a valeur sûre. “Where else can you get food and atmosphere of this quality for 42€?” they reason. So it’s with surprise, arriving at their weekly favourite Willy Dorr bistro where they and their families have been regulars for 36 years, to find the addys have all had a facelift. “Mais, they really didn’t need to, but how chariming”, they chorus as they take it in. Thing is they’ve had a major brainstorming session chez Dorr and uber-brasserie maven Willy decided he can now take it a bit easier, go fishing, play golf, wash the Merc. His boy Garry has already proved “yes he can” with the transformation of the 4 mouthwatering La Bar à Huïtres restos around Paris where he’s put the menus on I-pads and guarantees the largest, and freshest, selection of oysters on the hexagon. Boy’s had good training in London, worked the kitchens of Ducasse, with Piège at the Plaza Athénée, Robuchon and Cussac in Monaco, the legendary Grondard at Drouant. And always discreetly in the background the formidable Jean-Jacques Jouteaux. The décor may be embellished, the number of tables reduced so that you really cannot overhear your neighbour revealing all. But, Boy’s remembered the credo set by his father “All Inclusive”.  From soup to nuts, but now you’re in a Grand Bistro setting. “The menus change monthly, we’re using vegetables from Joël Thiébault, French meats and products from Hugo Desnoyer and Frank Samoyeau. Delicious breads from Poujauran, butters from Monsieur Bordier, Cheese from Madame Cantin and olive oil from Château d’Estoublon explains Garry. It’s a festival of great food, get along to one of the “Grand Bistros” (Breuteil, Muette, Villiers, Maillot) as soon as possible it’s what Paris eating is all about, just what you’re looking for. Willy Dorr, insists he’s no way taking a back seat. “It’s the new generation, an “histoire de famille”, same receipe, tout compris”, he grins. “Bienvenue chez nous”. Le Grand Bistro Bistro de Breteuil,3, place de Breteuil, 7thM: Duroc/Sevres Lecourbe,T: 01 45 67 07 27“Menu Signature” includes a bottle of wine42€Children’s menu 19€ + A La CarteValet ParkingOpen 7/7 – Terrace Diary Date: Fashion designers and chocolate makers combine to present eyewatering unique pieces for the Salon du Chocolat. This years’ theme: “The New Worlds of Chocolate”. Six Gourmet Domains. Daily at 5:00pm, the Salon becomes a fashion runway, presenting the now legendary Choco- Fashion Show. This year, the show includes the collaboration of the students and teaching staff of the iconic French multidisciplinary school MJM Graphic Design. “This year we are showcasing a visionary journey featuring the new worlds of chocolate in six gourmet domains”, say event creators Sylvie Douce and Franҫois Jeantet. Le 18th Salon du Chocolat from 31st October-4th NovemberPorte de Versailles Christmas Shopping: For the wine lover in your life you should gift…
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By Margaret Kemp

Born in Hampton, Middlesex, UK, Margaret Kemp is a lifestyle journalist, based between London, Paris and the world. Intensive cookery courses at The Cordon Bleu, London, a wedding gift from a very astute ex-husband, gave her the base that would take her travelling (leaving the astute one behind) in search of rare food and wine experiences, such as the vineyards of Thailand, 'gator hunting in South Florida, learning to make eye-watering spicy food in Kerala;pasta making in a tiny Tuscany trattoria. She has contributed to The Guardian, The Financial Times Weekend and FT. How To Spend It.com, The Spectator, Condé Nast Traveller, Food & Travel, and Luxos Magazine. She also advises as consultant to luxury hotels and restaurants. Over the years, Kemp has amassed a faithful following on BonjourParis. If she were a dish she'd be Alain Passard's Millefeuille “Caprice d'Enfant”, as a painting: Manet’s Dejeuner sur l’herbe !