Dispatch from Paris Fashion Week: Autumn/Winter 2024-2025 Shows
Despite pounding Paris rain and Peta protesters (at Victoria Beckham’s show), this latest Paris Fashion Week, which runs through March 5 and features autumn and winter collections, has been a veritable success with countless exciting new looks.
This fashion week featured a whopping 108 shows and presentations, and the most hotly anticipated new collections included the design debuts at stalwart houses: Pelagia Kolotouros at Lacoste, Chemena Kamali at Chloé, and Seán McGirr at iconic British house Alexander McQueen. Fan favorites like Rick Owens, Givenchy, Schiaparelli, Nina Rici, and Elie Saab, were also among the hot ticket shows on the schedule.
Chloé
Chloé creative director Chemena Kamali brought the famous maison back to its 1970s heyday with seventies looks of long, flowing, boho-inspired dresses at Paris Fashion Week. Notably, a 1970s-era prominent model Pat Cleveland attended the show with her daughter, model Anna Cleveland. Another icon of that time, Jerry Hall, was in attendance with her model daughter, Georgia May Jagger.
Kamali, 42, is a German born designer who said, the AP reports, that a “sense of nostalgia,” along with, “something that triggers a memory” is central to Chloé and thus inspired this debut collection. Kamali formerly worked at Saint Laurent with Anthony Vaccarello, and then moved over to Chloé, where she moved up the ladder at the house.
Kamali’s autumn/winter collection felt almost spring-like with its flowy, flouncy dresses and light colors. A sense of femininity and lightness was central to the show and felt like a welcome relief amid heavy global news. Critics loved the debut, calling it a “solid collection” with “moments of whimsy.” The accessories and details were on point, too. Belts, purses, boots, and tights added these whimsical moments and a sense of costuming and play to the show. Sheer tops and dresses sans undergarments were plentiful, suggesting a sense of freedom and play.
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Chenpeng
Another design house known for having a sense of fun with form is Chenpeng, established in 2016 by Chinese-born Peng Chen. A sense of loss informed the Chenpeng autumn/winter collection after the designer’s father recently passed away. Marked by grief, this collection featured only blacks and reds, with black –traditionally the color of mourning – being a predominant color on the runway. Bulky and cartoon-like silhouettes captivated the audience of his latest collection at the American Cathedral in Paris. At the end of the show, the designer walked the runway, as is tradition, and he gave a grateful wave to the attendees, while dressed all in black.
Chen is a graduate of the London College of Fashion. There, he received a Master’s in Menswear Fashion Design Technology and later founded his London-based brand. The Shanghai-based designer has continued to show innovative and exciting looks. Chenpeng designs can be found globally and are stocked in over 70 boutiques and retailers worldwide. Fans of the brand include Lady Gaga, Rihanna, model Bella Hadid, and many more. Cheng Pang partnered with Cardi B at the 2023 Met Gala.
Dior
Dior somehow always finds a way to stay true to its iconic roots and honor the present moment. That was evident this week in Maria Grazia Chiuri’s latest collection for the house, which kept one foot in traditional Dior history and one foot in the present and future trends. Capes were featured in many presentations this season; capes are having a moment, to be sure. And over at Dior, this is a look that was celebrated and crafted elegantly.
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Color patterns include sand colors, black, and gold – all classic colors that convey a sense of timelessness and elegance that one often associates with Dior. Longtime Dior brand ambassador Natalie Portman was on hand for the latest collection, along with stars like Elizabeth Debicki and Maisie Williams. Accessories like Dior’s ever-popular sunglasses were well featured during the collection, including the “VeryDior” sunglasses which wrapped around the entire face. Purses, rings, and intricate hand jewelry all made starring appearances on the runway, too.
Saint Laurent
Much like Chloé and other houses, sheer top looks sans coverage made their mark at Saint Laurent, the eponymous house of Yves Saint Laurent. With Belgian-Italian designer Anthony Vaccarello at the helm of the house as creative director, he honored the founder’s legacy of elevated sexiness in ready-to-wear form. (It’s notable that in 1966 Yves Saint Laurent designed a sheer blouse which reportedly debuted to shock and disbelief.)
As Vogue reports, “almost the entirety of Vaccarello’s 48-look collection was transparent.” With so many sheer looks, it felt more appropriate for a spring-summer collection than one for autumn and winter, and attendees noted as much. While seasonally mismatched, the looks were elevated and inspired.
Weinsanto
Weinsanto (by Victor Weinsanto) is a house known as a boundary-pusher with a flair for theater and drama. Weinsanto shows are an event and the house’s “FW24” show was consistent with that reputation. Also consistent – across designers’ shows – was the sheer look which made an appearance here, too.
This season’s look book also features asymmetrical looks (asymmetry was a constant presence among many shows and presentations), bold neon colors, gloves, and structured dresses. Weinsanto designs engage a sense of “fashion as fun” and it’s a welcome breath of fresh air – a design house that doesn’t take itself or its clothes too seriously, but rather, enjoys all the fun that fashion allows.
Daweï
Another Chinese-born designer, Daweï (of the eponymous label) debuted a new collection this week to much positive reception. Daweï spoke with Bonjour Paris during Paris Fashion Week and said that his inspiration for this collection was “the modern woman,” and all the different ways she wears her clothes and needs the clothes to serve her life.
Daweï created structured looks that are not only fashionable but offer utility and versatility. One item from the collection that emphasizes this point is the jacket which can be worn one way, then turned upside down and worn entirely differently. Structure and strength – paired with understated beauty – could be seen in all the latest Daweï looks.
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Lead photo credit : Paris Fashion Week - Stell McCartney. Photo: kris krüg/Flickr
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