March Restaurant Buzz: Where to Eat in Paris

“There is nothing more serious than pleasure” Claude Terrail 1917-2006 

Spring is right around the corner, and Paris restaurants are abuzz with the new seasons’s fresh ingredients from gardens and markets. We’re bringing you the latest food news and recommended addresses for March.

Guy Savoy 

There’s good news: Guy Savoy’s eponymous restaurant is now open for Saturday lunch. Located in the magnificent Paris Mint overlooking the Seine, the restaurant was designed by architect Jean-Michel Wilmotte. “We’re showcasing classics of French cuisine, to share or not!” says super chef Savoy.

How divine, after a Seine-side stroll, where you find a gem at Les Bouqinistes (read Anne McCarthy’s feature first) to discover the hearty L’Oreiller de la Belle Aurore, inspired by Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin, composed of different meats, garnished with stuffing, sweetbreads, truffles, foie gras. “This dish is the holy grail of any chef/charcutier, combining the challenge of a choice of seasonal products with a complex recipe,” says Savoy. “Although there’s no ‘official’ recipe. The main test for a chef is the impressive number of different seasonal meats required: poultry, duck, pheasant, mallard, partridge, doe, hare, pigeon, quail, rabbit, deer etc.”

Other dishes may include whole pollack aioli style, plump sole meunière, braised veal shank confit, Champvallon-style lamb chops. For dessert, don’t miss the millefeuille à la minute with Tahitian vanilla. 

As Guy Savoy puts it, “Cuisine is the art of instantly transforming produce rich with history into joy.” 

DETAILS

Guy Savoy Restaurant from Wednesday to Saturday – lunch and dinner.  
La Monnaie de Paris 
11 Quai de Conti, 6th 
Metro: Pont Neuf 
Tel: +33 (0)1 43 80 40 61 

Other  Guy Savoy Addresses: Le Chiberta
Atelier Mâitre Albert
And in Las Vegas  

The Ritz, Espadon 

The Espadon restaurant and Eugenie Béziat, its talented cheffe (40), the first woman ever to hold this prestigious post, proudly announce three macarons from Ecotable. 🌿 

The Ecotable label ensures that restaurants meet strict criteria for eco-friendly practices. For example, at least 50% of products must come from organic farming or sustainable sources, prioritizing waste management and not using endangered species of fish. According to Ecolabel: “These measures align with our belief in creating a sustainable and responsible gastronomic experience.” Cheffe Béziat, working with her team and with much admired Pastry Chef François Perret, shares their eco-responsible approach. 

What motivated you to embark on this eco-responsible journey? Was there a defining moment?

 “There wasn’t a specific defining moment for me. My approach to sustainability has always been the same. I strive to be as consistent as possible, I’m not perfect! I simply aspire to consume in, and contribute to a more responsible world, working with partners and suppliers who share the same vision. It’s how I see my profession, and it naturally became my approach when I was appointed head chef. I need to connect with the stories and people behind the ingredients I use.”

Why is it important to be a committed chef?

“Given the environmental context, consumption is a civic act and we, as chefs, must proceed carefully. Being committed allows us to find and pass on inspiration. We’re faced with numerous ecological challenges daily, it’s our responsibility to confront them. It’s also important to share this vision with the team, to communicate and learn from everyone.”

What sustainable actions have you implemented?  

“The most significant initiative for our restaurant is our own garden! It demands considerable investment, but the knowledge I gain from working with our growers is invaluable, and I share what I know with them in return. It’s an extraordinary adventure personally and professionally.”

By embracing eco-responsibility, The Ritz, Eugénie Béziat, François Perret and Espadon restaurant continue to create culinary history offering excellence and sustainability. 

And, talking François Perret, put Au Seuil de Printemps (on the threshold of Spring) on the wish list – the most delicious book you can read and eat! 

DETAILS

The Ritz Paris
15 place Vendome, 1st 
Metro: Concorde 
Tel: +33 (0)1 43 16 33 74 

Excoffier Père & Fils

With a dedicated fan base, chef Excoffier is one of the stars of excellent, affordable, Paris cuisine. In 2011, Excoffier took over the 7th arrondissement restaurant where Alain Senderens once cooked. When you enter, notice the recipe book by Auguste Escoffier: from Escoffier to Excoffier!  

Originally from the Savoy region, the chef has cheffed with Philippe Million, Albertville, Guy Martin in Divonne-les-Bains, Alain Senderens at Lucas-Carton-  cooking for the likes Jack Lang, Yves Saint-Laurent, Sylvia Marnier-Lapostolle, daughter of the founder of Grand Marnier. Then he was discreetly in the kitchens at the residence of the American Ambassador in Paris. Today Excoffier’s proud to be working in tandem with his son Sasha, formerly chez Guy Martin. “It’s now “Excoffier Père & Fils,” he grins. See you there! 

DETAILS

18 rue de L’Exposition, 7th 
Metro: La Tour Maubourg 
Closed Sunday & Monday 

La Tour d’Argent, Brunch du Dimanche 

On the Quai de La Tournelle, Sundays are chic and delicious. The Bar des Maillets d’Argent, a cozy setting on the ground floor of this amazing maison, welcomes you for “Sunday Brunch.” It’s named for founder Claude Terrail’s polo team, Les Maillets d’Argent.

For a convivial “Sunday lunch” with family and/or friends, the Tour d’Argent welcomes guests “as at home” in this exceptional setting. In the heart of the Latin Quarter, dishes evolve with the seasons and the creativity of Yannick Franques, Michelin-starred Chef and MOF (Meilleur Ouvrier de France).

DETAILS

€65 From 11am-4pm every Sunday 
Tel: +33 (0)1 43 54  23 31 
19 Quai de la Tournelle, 5th 
Metro: Pont Marie 

 

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Julia Sedefdjian awarded the Medal of Knight  

Last January 29th, Julia Sedefdjian – France’s youngest (27 years) Michelin star cheffe – was awarded the prestigious medal of Chevalier de l’Ordre National du Mérite by Guillaume Gomez , representing Emmanuel Macron, President of the Republic, for gastronomy, food and the culinary arts.

At the town hall in the 5th arrondissement the cheffe of Baieta lived “an exceptional moment” in the presence of Madam Mayor, Florence Berthout, Madam Ambassador of Armenia to France, Hasmik Tolmajian, Julia’s team, relatives, and friends.  

The ceremony was an opportunity to recall Julia’s dazzling journey. Arriving from Nice to Paris, at the age of 17. I remember meeting Julia at Christian Constant’s Les Fables de la Fontaine where she won her first star age just 21.

In 2018, alongside her two partners Grégory Anelka and Sébastien Jean-Joseph, Julia launched Baieta (“little kiss” in the Nicois dialect), gleaning a star in the Michelin Guide just 10 months after launching.

In 2021, the cheffe became the godmother of La Tablée des Chefs association before taking on the role of ambassador the following year. Every two weeks, the young cheffe gives cooking classes, in a college in the 20th arrondissement, part of the “Culinary Brigades” program teaching the principles of a healthy, balanced diet.

In December 2022, Julia joined forces with Crous de Créteil which cooks a complete and accessible menu (€1 for scholarship recipients) for 1,300 students to combat food poverty. This collaboration now extends to the CROUS, Reims which, in March 2024, hosts the final of a student cooking competition, of which Julia is the godmother, with the aim of raising awareness of responsible eating. When does she ever sleep?

DETAILS

5, rue de Pontoise, 5th 
T: 01 42 02 59 19 
M: Maubart-Mutualité 
Lunch & Dinner from Tuesday – Saturday 

Qasti Green by Alan Geaam 

“A tribute to my Levantine childhood” is how Geaam describes his recently launched Quasti Green. His 100% vegetarian Lebanese cuisine is full of delicious surprises.

There’s a rich palette of mezzés including fresh labneh with Kalamata olives matched with fried kale, traditional fatayers with spinach and pine nuts. New and delicious creations include celery mushroom & halloumi shawarma, and the colorful kebbeh vegetarian with pumpkin, spinach or beetroot. Daoud Bacha meatballs are transformed into a tempting vegetarian version: lentils, almonds, bulgur and vegetables flavored with kofta spices. Desserts invite divine indulgence with kneffeh, grapefruit mouhalabieh, or delicious achta ice cream, typically Lebanese, based on milk blossom and orange blossom coated in crushed pistachio.

Located in the Sentier district (Joia by Hélène Darroze and Salatim by Yariv Berreby are neighbors) Alain’s keeping it in the family; his niece, the talented Zeina Hachem, is heading the kitchen. The concept: to offer quality Levantine cuisine in a veggie version with vegetables replacing meat.

Quasti Green has two menus and Sunday Brunch – in the form of a beautiful buffet. 

DETAILS

41 rue des Jeûneurs, 2nd 
Metro: Bonne Nouvelle 
Tel: +33 (0)1 53 40 86 82 
Open Monday to Saturday for lunch and dinner 
Sunday Brunch from 12 noon until 4 pm
Lunch €20 – Menu Green €38- Brunch €38  

 

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By the way, have you seen – The Taste of Things? 

Juliette Binoche and Benôit Magimel (former lovers) are magic. (Check out Hazel Smith’s article about the pot-au-feu here.)