The Essential Guide to the 14th Arrondissement

When I tell people I lived in the 14th arrondissement, most seem to appear slightly apathetic. For those who live elsewhere, this quarter may not strike them as a must-visit. However, the 14th is a patriotic place, and I for one want to defend the bounty of things to see and do and eat in this wonderful arrondissement. I moved into my tiny chambre de bonne near Alésia back in August 2022, and spent the next year roaming all of the wonderful rues nearby. And now, I confidently say that it is one of the best arrondissements in Paris.

Things to see and do  

Rue Daguerre 

When I first arrived, I asked the guardienne of my building for local recommendations. She asked what I’m interested in, and I simply said “food”, to which she told me to take a walk down Rue Daguerre. The stroll was a sensory delight – a microcosm of Parisian culinary culture, packed into just a few hundred meters capturing the soul of local neighborhood life. There are restaurants from all corners of the world, food shops, boulangeries, and amazing patisseries.  

Parc Montsouris 

Leafy, romantic, and serene, Parc Montsouris is a park not often frequented by tourists, but loved by locals who enjoy its sweeping lawns, lakeside paths, and delicious food spots. I used to meet many friends here to grab a crêpe from La Bonbonnière for a casual treat, or you can enjoy more refined French cuisine at the elegant Pavillon Montsouris overlooking the greenery.  

Les Catacombes 

Beneath the elegant boulevards of Paris lies a haunting underworld: the Catacombs. This eerie labyrinth of tunnels, lined with the bones of over six million bodies, is one of the city’s most macabre and mesmerizing sites. A descent into its depths feels like stepping into a forgotten chapter of history. 

Cimetière du Montparnasse 

A peaceful haven in Paris, Cimetière du Montparnasse is home to iconic graves like Sartre and de Beauvoir, Samuel Beckett, Baudelaire, and Niki de Saint Phalle. I used to enjoy a quiet stroll here, in which art, history, and philosophy would reveal itself – etched in stone and sculpture.  

Musée Bourdelle 

Recently reopened after major renovations, the Musée Bourdelle allows visitors to explore Antoine Bourdelle’s original workshops – a true example of iconic Parisian Ateliers. A visit here allows you to explore bold sculptures by Bourdelle and his contemporaries, stroll through peaceful gardens, and enjoy inspired cuisine at the new café-restaurant, Le Rhodia. 

Petite Ceinture 

When I first came across this hidden gem, I thought I would be stopped for trespassing! Once a forgotten railway, the Petite Ceinture is now a secret nature walkway winding through south Paris. Along the overgrown tracks are street art and wild nature, a unique urban contradiction. This is a peaceful, offbeat escape from the city buzz – if you can find the hidden entrances! 

Musée de la Libération de Paris 

In honor of the 75th anniversary of Paris’s Liberation, the Musée de la Libération opened at Place Denfert-Rochereau. I went there with my father who is fascinated by World War II and we heard of the stories of Jean Moulin and General Leclerc, and descended into the historic underground command bunker used by the French Resistance.  

Tour Montparnasse 

The Tour Montparnasse offers one of Paris’s best panoramic views – and what is best is that unlike the view from the top of the Eiffel Tower, you can actually admire the iconic landmark on the horizon. Less crowded than other viewpoints, it’s a must-visit for stunning cityscapes, especially at sunset. 

Cartier Foundation for Contemporary Art 

A landmark of contemporary art in Paris, the Fondation Cartier is a striking blend of glass architecture and lush biodiversity. (It’s surrounded by a lovely garden teeming with life.) The museum will be moving across the river, closer to the Louvre, in late October, but the foundation will maintain these premises as offices. 

Restaurants 

Bistrot des Plantes 
34 Rue des Plantes

On my first night in Paris, I had the fortune of stumbling across Bistrot des Plantes. This cozy bistrot near Rue des Plantes with fairy lights, hanging plants, and outdoor seating truly charmed me. The rustic interior and imaginative French menu make it a must-visit with attentive service and great wine.

 

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Maison Binder 
43 Rue Hallé

Maison Binder is a little oasis with a relaxed ambiance on a beautiful shady corner of Rue Hallé. A vegetarian restaurant, their menu consists of inventive dishes such as mushroom terrine with shallots and hazelnuts, and aubergine tartare with herbes de Provence potatoes and BBQ sauce.

AU VIEUX HANOI 
41 Rue Bezout

This Vietnamese restaurant was right below my apartment, making it an incredibly convenient – perhaps dangerously convenient – spot. And perhaps I am biased for this fact, but I am convinced it is the freshest, most flavorsome food I ate in Paris. I still catch myself dreaming about their lemongrass beef or ginger chicken bo buns.

Aux Plumes 
45 Rue Boulard

Awarded a Bib Gourmand, Aux Plumes is led by a talented Japanese chef crafting inventive, seasonal cuisine with top-quality ingredients. Expect beautifully plated dishes, a 20€ lunch with a trio of starters, and warm service – all in a discreet, book-ahead neighborhood spot.

Poinçon 
124 Av. du Général Leclerc

Once an abandoned train station, Poinçon now hums with life in the form of live music, incredible food, and happy customers. The weekly-changing menu surprises with bold, well-executed dishes, and the staff go out of their way to make you feel welcome.

Olive Chicken 
6 Rue Poinsot

In my opinion, the best Korean restaurant in Paris – but don’t tell that to too many people as it is still a very local, undiscovered gem! Olive Chicken serves up crispy, juicy Korean fried chicken with bold sauces such as the mouth-watering spicy Magma. Friendly staff, fresh sides, and great value make it a go-to spot for those craving authentic Korean food in Paris.

Wonderland Patisserie 
208 Av. du Maine

I can still remember the awe I felt walking past the shopfront of Wonderland Patisserie and marveling at the intricate beauty of their patisseries. Rodolphe Groizard has created desserts which are so beautiful that you feel guilty biting into them … until you taste their mouthwatering flavors. My personal favorite is the “Fantasia” – a merry-go-round constructed from dark chocolate mousse with a raspberry and basil heart, salted butter caramel, roasted pistachios, and speculoos biscuits. 

Bar/Nightlife 

Le Petit Club 
55 Rue de la Tombe Issoire

Near the exit of the Catacombs lives a true Parisian bar. Tourists will be happy to see very reasonable prices as it is off the well-trodden path, and the large outdoor terrace makes it a great spot for people-watching amongst the locals.  

L’Éphémère Alesia 
228 Avenue Du Maine

With a well-decorated terrace against a gorgeous floral backdrop, l’Éphémère is the perfect setting for a cocktail in the sun. Try my favorite – their Tiramisu martini made with vodka, tiramisu liqueur, and espresso. They also make delicious pizzas! 

Le Petit Sommelier – Rue Daguerre 
39 Rue Daguerre

This intimate wine bar with a charming cellar on Rue Daguerre serves crisp wine and unctuous aperitifs. The products are refined and high quality and the staff are knowledgeable and welcoming. Grab the seats on the terrace and enjoy the buzz of the amazing road. 

 

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Shopping 

Rue Daguerre – food souvenirs 

As previously mentioned, but it’s definitely worth the double mention – Rue Daguerre offers the most delectable edible souvenirs. Meringues from Aux Merveilleux de Fred, foie gras from Valette, and honey from Famille Mary to name just a few options. 

Librairie SANZOT 14 – bande dessinée 

Living in Paris, I discovered the joy of bandes dessinées. From gripping memoirs to crazy comics, they offer a great glimpse into France’s “ninth art”. The owner of Librairie Sandro is friendly and welcoming and is always on hand to give you fantastic recommendations.  

Céramicafé Geneviève – Paris 14 

For a fun activity which yields unique gifts and souvenirs, a session at Céramicafé Geneviève is a must! My personal favorite session is “Ceramic & Apéro” – a three-hour workshop/aperitif where you can enjoy a drink and a charcuterie board while painting a ceramic of your choice.  

 

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