Beyond the Périphérique: The Sphinxes and Secrets of Marly-le-Roi

This journey begins with a bit of advice: get moving early. This is the first of a two-part series exploring a route inspired by Annabel Simms’ An Hour from Paris, but with an optional, long extension to Louveciennes and the Seine that makes the extra effort — and the early alarm — entirely worth it.

Our day started at Gare Saint-Lazare, boarding the “L” train for a rhythmic 40-minute ride into the countryside. While reading the overview of the walk on the train, I learned that Marly-le-Roi served as Louis XIV’s exclusive, intimate, and more relaxed getaway from the rigid etiquette of Versailles. Arriving at the Marly-le-Roi station, you’re greeted by a beautifully classic facade of warm brick and, bien sûr, a signature station clock. It’s the perfect portal for leaving the city behind. [More background on Marly-le-Roi in Jill Amari’s article here.]

Sphinxes and Serge Gainsbourg

Wandering up the hill toward the city center, Marly-le-Roi reveals its character through artful boutique windows and quiet, sun-drenched corners. We passed a brightly lit church where a statue of a priest stands inside, perpetually waving goodbye to visitors.

Just around the corner, we found one of the town’s most unusual landmarks: the entrance to the Château du Sphinx. Ten weathered granite sphinxes line the allée, originally purchased by the playwright Victorien Sardou from the Sultan’s Pavilion at the 1867 Exposition Universelle.

The morning was still quiet — the town felt wonderfully mignon but filled with small, hidden surprises. We spotted a tiny Serge Gainsbourg music box tucked into a driveway wall, and several artistic shop signs that turned the streets into a gallery for everything from hair salons to chair restorers.

The Park and the Card Mystery

As we exited the centre ville, the park beckoned. We were greeted by a humorous warning sign: “Beware of the dog, but the cat is not trustworthy either!” It’s exactly the kind of local wit that makes these walks so memorable.

Being early spring, the trees were in their “geometric” phase — sharp silhouettes outlining the walkways, just waiting for the first sprout of green. While wandering through the bushes near the lake, we discovered a local secret: tiny handwritten notecards hidden in the foliage. If you take this adventure yourself, keep your eyes peeled — find the deck, add a card, and leave your mark on the trail!

A Bonus Canopy

As the sun climbed higher, the reflections in the ponds suggested it was time for a break. Glancing up, the intertwined branches formed a natural canopy overhead. It was this view — and the lingering energy of the morning — that convinced us to take the bonus leap: the extension to Louveciennes just across the way.

Stay tuned for the next vignette as we follow the walk through the nearby village and down to the Seine!