A Changing World: The Saga of Paris Déconfinement

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A Changing World: The Saga of Paris Déconfinement
As winter softened into spring, Paris hunkered down in pandemic “confinement.” As of March 17, we could travel no more than one kilometer from home. We were allowed to perform essential tasks (such as grocery shopping, dog walking, and exercise) but had to limit those adventures to one hour each day, clutching our trusty attestations. The streets were eerily empty. Traffic was nonexistent, except for empty buses keeping to their schedules. The air was free of pollution. The natural rhythms of the earth returned. As we sheltered, we transitioned to online culture, Zoom gatherings, unending Netflix, virtual travel, all-day pajamas, banana bread recipes, and a new appreciation for the details of our neighborhood and the beauty of nature. Free at Last—Déconfinement/Phase One (from May 11) Then came May 11—the long-awaited day of (semi) liberation. Phase One of Déconfinement gave us a taste of freedom . . . and a changed world. The lockdown laws lessened, but we still had to be vigilant about health precautions. Masks were recommended outside (advice taken by about 50% of the public) and were required in most stores and on all public transport. Hand sanitizer (once in short supply) now appeared in every shop and in distribution stations around the city. We could now travel more than one kilometer (but no more than 100 kms). The river banks were reopened, and people could gather in groups of no more than 10 people. And gather we did, given the sun-filled weather. So much so that alcohol was banned by the canals and the Seine. Certain streets in Paris were designated as bike routes, particularly paralleling Metro lines 1, 4, and 13. For example, rue de Rivoli expanded its bike lanes and was closed to traffic other than buses, taxis, and other essential vehicles. Could we possibly prevent the car pollution from returning? Schools and churches slowly reopened with strict rules about social distancing. Public transport schedules regained some normalcy, but the interiors of buses and metros were now a constant reminder of health precautions. To ensure social distancing, certain seats were marked to be left empty. Since it was difficult to social distance during rush hours, these times were reserved for people who must travel at that time, with attestations required. Open markets resumed, and many more restaurants became creative about take-out opportunities. Of course, Deliveroo, UBER Eats, and Glovo were available (in a more limited way) during confinement, but in déconfinement, more restaurants started offering delivery options and street-side take-away. From Michelin-starred restaurants like Frenchie to street pizza take-out to American pancakes, we were never in danger of starving. True, a Michelin take-out meal is not the same experience as having each course served perfectly at an elegant table, but if you’re tired of your own cooking, a Michelin-starred meal is not a bad way to make a change. And who doesn’t crave pancakes and bacon every so often? Some museums and galleries also reopened, with excellent precautions in place. The Musée Jacquemart André allows only a few people in at a time by reservation to ensure social distancing, and they take your temperature at the entrance. Socially distanced expositions are a perfect way to experience art. You can really see. Galleries like the Galerie Hegoa take a reservation for a particular time slot and close between time slots to make sure the gallery is sanitized for the next visitor. We are Orange! Déconfinement/Phase Two (from June 2) Phase Two of Déconfinement is full of good news. The Ile-de-France region (including Paris), which was once designated a “red zone” (indicating heightened Covid-19 challenges) has turned to orange. Even before that announcement, you could feel Phase Two freedom coming. There was more activity in the shadowed interiors of restaurants and cafés. Remodeling, painting, and cleaning were common…
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Lead photo credit : Deconfinement/Phase Two in the Luxembourg Gardens. Photo © Meredith Mullin

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Meredith Mullins is an internationally exhibited fine art photographer and instructor based in Paris. Her work is held in private and museum collections in Europe and the U.S. and can be seen at www.meredithmullins.artspan.com or in her award-winning book "In A Paris Moment." (If you’re in Paris, a few rare, signed copies are available at Shakespeare and Company and Red Wheelbarrow.) She is a writer for OIC Moments and other travel and education publications.

Comments

  • Anna Eklund-Cheong
    2020-06-02 10:13:52
    Anna Eklund-Cheong
    Loved this report from the frontlines! Terrific details. Bravo, Paris! Let's hope all goes well. <3

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