Meet the American Baker Whipping up Elegant Desserts in Paris

Frank Adrian Barron creates American-style cakes highlighting the seasonal flavors featured in French pastry shops, developing new recipes all his own.  

Frank first arrived in Paris over a dozen years ago, eager to sample all of the renowned pastries from pain au chocolat to macarons to éclairs. Very soon, he was longing for his favorite desserts from back home in California: a classic layer cake with buttercream frosting, for example, or light-as-air coffee cake with a crunchy streusel topping. With no formal training in baking, he started a new adventure right in his Paris apartment — perfecting his versions of the American desserts that he missed the most. However, soon he encountered his first challenge. 

Frank quickly learned a critical concept about the seasonality of ingredients in France. While he was searching for strawberries in January, a shopkeeper explained that there are never any strawberries available in winter, bien sûr! That’s different from stores back in the States where most produce is available year-round. Frank began to “appreciate the limited availability of fruits, and to really savor them in season.” Going forward, Frank’s recipes would feature ingredients like chestnuts in winter, berries in summer, and apples in autumn — now, that’s baking à la francaise. 

Frank’s professional career was launched when some specialty coffee shops and neighborhood cafés started selling his desserts. His roster of clients grew rapidly, and now includes the esteemed Saint-Germain-des-Prés restaurant, Lapérouse. The owners at this historic establishment asked Frank to create two special layer cakes for their menu: a vanilla cake filled with Tahitian vanilla bean ganache, black currant compote and frosted with mascarpone whipped cream, and also a dark chocolate cake with a raspberry compote filling, dark chocolate ganache frosting, all topped with fresh raspberries. Both treats delicious and decadent! 

Frank calls his cookbook a “love letter to time spent baking throughout the year in Paris.” The chapters in Sweet Paris: Seasonal Recipes from an American Baker in France are based on the availability of the freshest ingredients at peak flavor. Stunning photos of his work show that his unique style goes beyond great taste — his desserts are adorned with the most beautiful candied fruit, delicate flower petals, or even classic American rainbow sprinkles. I baked his Apple Tea Cake and the addition of cardamom added a lovely warm spice flavor a bit different than the usual cinnamon, plus adding a bit of cider to the sweet glaze was the perfect final touch. 

On my last trip to Paris, I joined one of Frank’s walking tours, strolling around the Left Bank sampling a variety of delectable pastries, candies and chocolates. At each shop, he would share information about specific baking techniques, or the intricate history about bonbons favored by the royal court. During the tour, I sensed that Frank relishes these wonderful treats as part of his day-to-day life, not over-the-top indulgence reserved for special events. It’s a philosophy I think we can all benefit from.  

Everyone can learn how to assemble, frost and decorate layer cakes during interactive sessions that take place in Frank’s Paris apartment. Targeting novice bakers, these workshops culminate in sharing and tasting a variety of sweet treats for the perfect French goûter, the traditional afternoon tea time. It’s a great way to enhance your skills, meet other amateur bakers, and share the joys of yummy baked goods. 

Photos of Frank’s desserts and his life in Paris can be found on Instagram at @cakeboyparis. For information on his Paris tours, baking workshops and more, visit www.cakeboyparis.com.