Vins des Pyrenees, Dessance, Alain Ducasse & the Chocolate Factory, & Bernard Loiseau

Vins des Pyrenees, Dessance, Alain Ducasse & the Chocolate Factory, & Bernard Loiseau
Vin de Pyrénées Between St. Paul in the Marais and Bastille, is the building where Jim Morrison died. Located at 17 rue Beautreillis, the Haussmann-style façade stands out from the buildings on this charming little side street. Morrison shared the third floor apartment with his girlfriend Pamela Courson:  the police report of that evening had them at the movies and returning home. In the middle of the night, Morrison awoke coughing, took a bath and Ms Courson found him: dead. Official cause listed on the death certificate: heart failure. Go to this link. At No. 25, Vin des Pyrénees, a former wine-bar where, legend has it, Morrison would take his night cap, there’s a tribute to him in a discreet corner, Dooristas still pop by for a glass of red to soak up a bit of the atmosphere created by James Douglas “Jim” Morrison 1943-1971 RIP. Vin des Pyrénées is to-day a restaurant-bar that looks like a postcard by Doisneau or Brassai. Wearing the whites Alexander Jean and Jean-Philippe Leboeuf ex- Le Crillon with Christian Constant: Dutournier at Carré des Feuillants and Georges at Le Centre Pompidou. “It’s a quality/price market driven cuisine de tradition, with wines from the Pyrénées region and throughout France”, says Leboeuf (great name for a chef, you couldn’t make it up eh!). Dishes are marked on the blackboard, or choose from the A La Carte menu. Ceviche de bar, Ravioli de Royans: chunky terrine de campagne maison: Cassoulette de supions et piquillos:
Haddock, pommes écrasées et œuf coulant: marmite de poissons: Et la superbe Côte de Bœuf pour deux with frites maison et vraie béarnaise: Saumon bio, fondue de poireau, emulsion anisée: Roast organic chicken, pommes grenaille: Fromages:
Brioche perdue caramel au beurre salé: Tarte aux citron meringue: Créme Brûlée: Ice creams and sorbets. Sundays there’s VDP special Cheeseburgers: Oeufs Benédicte: Frits: Salads and perfect pancakes. “I am the Lizard King, I can do anything!” ― Jim Morrison 25 rue Beautreillis, 4th T: 01 42 72 64 94 Lunch 2 courses 16€ – A La carte about 38€ -Sunday Brunch about 26€ No site. E-mail Dessance “Here, dessert is not a conclusion, it is an invitation to travel”, says Philippe Baranes (you know him from Braisenville, rue Condorcet, 9th). Don’t expect classic Babas, Paris-Brest, Tarte au Citron, Opéra, etc. Here’s “Dessance, first gastronomic dessert bar in Paris”. Prepare to be amazed by pastry wiz Christophe Boucher (ex-Eric Guérin at La Mare aux Oiseaux: Guy Martin’s Grand Vefour and Pavilion Ledoyen with Christian Lesquer. Sit at the bar, the 17th century townhouse is revised and corrected in Danish designer style, watch Boucher create and plate edgy sweet-sour desserts including: Beetroot, white chocolate, cranberry and bergamote (paired with Tilquin Beer or Gewurtztraminer late harvest, Ostertag 2011): Apples, Vitelotte blue-white potatoes, arugula salad, marjoram: Champagne Billecart-Simon or Rhubarb Juice. The wine pairings are by wine-buff Boris Bielous as are the teas and, say, Soba Cha, ground buckwheat seed infusions, from La Maison des 3 Thés. Into the oven goes the Baked Alaska, served smoked with whiskey – sensual and delicious. Suddenly “after-work” bars seem so last year. But why name it Dessance? “Dessert & Naissance (birth)”, grin Baranes, Boucher and Bielous. 74 rue des Archives, 3rd M: Hotel de Ville/Filles de Calvaire, T: 01 42 77 23 62 Shut Mon-Tues : Wed-Fri 15.00-23.30 Sat-Sun: 12noon -12midnight Dessert à la Carte 19€- Menu Carte Blanche to share 22€ per person Alain & the Chocolate Factory: For Alain Ducasse chocolate’s “a terribly sensual and bewitching substance.” He says he dreams of it: if you can dream it you can do it. With the success of La Manufacture, Bastille Monsieur Ducasse’s dreams are reality and, together with Artisan Chocolate Maker Nicolas Berger, incredible flavours and savours of the dark, light and white stuff see the light of day. Just open is a second Manufacture, on the left bank, in the former boutique of Café Flore, showcasing all the goodies which are made at Le Manufacture on rue de la Roquette at No.40. Hard to choose but for Easter the Egg Box is fun: 4 eggs in their shells lined with chocolate and praline. Peel the egg, in four flavours: coconut: pistachio: almond and hazelnut. Delicious ! 30€ Or, try the Discovery Box. 45 pieces: 25 flavours: 56€ 24 rue Saint-Benoit, 6th M: Saint-Germain des Pres Brand Bernard Loiseau launches innovative products. “This is the result of a long period of work and exchanges with the best craftsmen in Burgundy (and Alsace for foie gras) for this range of cutting-edge products”, said Bérangére Loiseau one day last week at Tante Marguerite one of three Loiseau restaurants in Paris.  “My mother, Dominique Loiseau, wanted to continue what my father did to highlight the artisans of our regions that sustains our gastronomic heritage: this is the work of these creations delicacies”, added Bérangére, eldest of the three Loiseau siblings. Neat and innovative ideas, such as sprays from Brumes-Gourmande spritz your dishes and desserts and get that *** sensation. Marvellous mustards from Fallot Terrnes: Foie Gras : Vinegars flaovoured with Litchi & Rose, Burgundy honey and Earl Grey Tea. Honey Cakes and Nonettes: Buttery Sablés. Read: “Bernard Loiseau, My Husband, by Dominique Loiseau: A moving homage, a journey of discovery into the fascinating world of a depressed super-chef who committed suicide in 2003. Editions Michel Lafon: Order from Loiseau €19.50. Products available at all Maisons Bernard Loiseau: Lafayette Gourmet.

Lead photo credit : Alain Ducasse

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Born in Hampton, Middlesex, UK, Margaret Kemp is a lifestyle journalist, based between London, Paris and the world. Intensive cookery courses at The Cordon Bleu, London, a wedding gift from a very astute ex-husband, gave her the base that would take her travelling (leaving the astute one behind) in search of rare food and wine experiences, such as the vineyards of Thailand, 'gator hunting in South Florida, learning to make eye-watering spicy food in Kerala;pasta making in a tiny Tuscany trattoria. She has contributed to The Guardian, The Financial Times Weekend and FT. How To Spend, The Spectator, Condé Nast Traveller, Food & Travel, and Luxos Magazine. She also advises as consultant to luxury hotels and restaurants. Over the years, Kemp has amassed a faithful following on BonjourParis. If she were a dish she'd be Alain Passard's Millefeuille “Caprice d'Enfant”, as a painting: Manet’s Dejeuner sur l’herbe !