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“The discovery of a new dish confers more happiness on humanity than the discovery of a star.” –André Daguin 1935-2019. RIP chef.
Aux Lyonnais Celebrates 130 Years
In 1890 the former coal depot became a famous bistro, serving authentic Lyonnais specialities. Fast forward to 2002 when Alain Ducasse acquired the space (near the Bourse and the Opera Comique), having fallen in love with its history. As a 16-year-old apprentice, Ducasse remembers time spent in Mionnay, near Lyon, at Alain Chapel’s eponymous restaurant, calling him “my spiritual Father”.
To celebrate 130 years, Aux Lyonnais’ head chef Yann Mastantuono invited three chefs (from Les Collectionneurs – the group of interesting restaurants, hotel and travel ideas) to showcase dishes that will feature on the menu this year.
There’s the warmest of welcomes from the charming Directeur du Salle Eric Mercier, who’ll talk you through mouthwatering dishes by Julien Allano from Clair de la Plume, Grignan (February), André Taormina from Ambroisie, St Didier de la Tour (March), and Jean-Michel Carrette from Aux Terrasses, Tournus (April).
Begin with Allano’s “Compression of winter vegetables”. Follow with Carrette’s “pikeperch mousseline, Nantua sauce”. Then Taormina’s tender compression of wild rabbit with potato gnocchi. And, to finish, Aux Lyonnais chef Mastantuono’s perfect chocolate soufflé (made with Ducasse chocolate) and vanilla ice cream. Match with white Saint-Véran from Gilles Morat or the fruity red Saint-Amour Château des Bachelards 2016.
32 rue Saint Marc, 2nd
Tel: +33 (0)1 42 96 65 04
Metro: Richelieu Drouot
Closed Saturday lunch Sunday & Monday
Lunch – from €24 Dinner from €35
Dupin, a French Bistro
In 1995, L’Epi Dupin – situated on a side street opposite La Grande Epicérie – was the concept of chef François Pasteau. He sent out incredible food from his postage stamp kitchen; L’Epi was the talk of the town, with mission statement eco-responsibility and seasonality.
Recently Pasteau decided to take his foot off the peddle (“not entirely, you can still find me at L’Epi Malin, serving organic fast food,” he told us).
Say hello to Le Lavendou-born Nathan Helo, with the same zero-waste locavore values as Pasteau, now helming Dupin. Following time spent studying business in London, then Grasse, and at Michel Rostang’s fabulous family addresses via Four Seasons George V, with David Bizet (now chez Taillevent!)
The decor is by Richard Lafond (Tomy & Co, Pierre Gagnaire, Bordeaux etc.) using light wood, and a play of lights showcases original beams. Cute miniature vintage stoves decorate an alcove with Jean Gabin’s words etched beneath. “Je boirai du lait le jour ou les vaches mangeront du raisin.” (I’ll drink milk the day cows eat raisins!)
I have a problem with Helo’s menu! I need to taste everything! Helo chooses his veg then decides which fish or meat to marry them to. My kind of chef. Always a place for vegetables, locavore where possible, as in multi-colored beets, physalis, mackerel and warm Ten Belles bread for mopping.
Weekday lunch (€30 + wine) may finish with a “sharing” dessert: Baba Chartreuse Menton lemon, almonds, tarragon-verveine, anyone? You bet !
A la carte, look for smoked organic chicken egg, mussel marinade and corn barbecue, candied Brussels sprouts, sorrel, kiwi and salmon or a delicious cake of potatoes, cereals, poultry and pan juices. Wine? By the glass, the red Il fait soif from Maxime Laurent (€6 – €32 bottle) is an aromatic match for Helo’s delicious, original cuisine.
11 rue Dupin, 6th
Tel: +33 (0)1 42 22 64 56
5 course Tasting Menu – €56 + wine
A La Carte – about €42
From the brigade that brought you Balagan – Dan Yosha, Assaf Granit, Uri Navon and Tomer Lanzman introduce Tel Aviv/Brooklyn attitude to the Sentier district.
In Hebrew, Shabour means “broken” as in we’re (gently) breaking the codes. “And the first thing we broke was this place which dates from the 17th century and which, together with Maxime and Rodolphe of Cent15 Architecture, we’ve revised and corrected – making Shabour an invisible bridge between Israel and France, Jerusalem and Paris.”
Around the giant marble bar, share not only with your +1 but also the entire central kitchen – make NBFs in a festive setting.
Bread’s baked in an olive branch to dip in grilled octopus with Harissa sauce. Covet the fine Limoges china and crystal glassware. Taste the catch of the day, baba ganoush (mashed cooked eggplant mixed with tahini, olive oil, a kick of spice), smoked tea poached egg, tahini, salmon eggs and caviar. Tortellini, chorizo, machluta (stewed fava beans) thick yogurt and pine nuts, eggplant caramel; beef cooked with dates and figs; pumpkin and labneh ravioli, tarragon infused brown butter.
And then luscious ladles of chocolate mousse, blitzed with fleur de sel and olive oil: cheese cake, compôtes, everything changes daily and is made “in our fashion with love – chez nous becomes chez vous!” Wash down with Canadian Ice Cider (€12 glass). Shalom!
19 rue Saint Saveur, 2nd
No ‘phone – email reservations
Dinner only from 6.30-11.30pm
Tasting Menu €81 – A La Carte Starters €8-19 Mains €26-€46
Pudds – €12-€14
Feeling a little jaded? Here’s a breath of post holiday fresh air on a hill overlooking le tout Paris. On Fecheray Terrace, in Suresnes, there’s a pop-up “ski resort” with 360 degree views of the city, and a Courchevel attitude. Just the ticket.
With a strutting “frosty the snowman” atmosphere, Mourchevel’s concept rolls out a typical family ski resort altitude restaurant. The ambiance is ensure with a decor of “vintage” wood, skins and furs. Grown-ups sip mulled wine, while kids grill marshmallows on the barbecue as well as tasting waffles, fondue savoyard, crepes and hot chocolate.
Until March 1, 2020,
Terrasse du Fecheray – 92150 Suresnes
Access: Gare de Suresnes, Mont Valerian
Tel: +33 (0)6 35 31 20 21
The late great superchef Joël Robuchon left a unique gastronomic heritage, cuisine based on quality, seasonality and respect for the product. Today there’s Robuchon Ateliers and Wine Bars worldwide. In Paris, L’Atelier Etoile is headed by chef Éric Bouchenoire (MOF). With Robuchon since 1985, he continues to send out the classic favorites. Le “Signature Menu” includes the delicate emblematic dishes and creations that have influenced so many chefs. Sologne caviar gelée, cream of cauliflower; Avocado, crab; Le Black Cod etc.
L’Atelier Etoile de Joël Robuchon
133, avenue des Champs Elysées, 8th
Metro: Charles de Gaulle, Etoile
Open 7/7 – Valet Parking
I heard it on the grapevine
L’Astrance: After 20 years on rue Beethoven, **Michelin-starred chef Pascal Barbot, le brigade, and front of house director Christophe Rohat will head to rue de Longchamp (16th), home to Joël Robuchon’s Jamin from 1981-1994. Sadly, L’Astrance lost its third Michelin star in the Guide 2019. Bookings open early 2020 – the beginning of new culinary adventures.
Daroco 16: The three musketeers Alexandre Giesbert, Julien Ross and Romain Glize, who transformed Le Zebra into a brasserie chic, have given it a makeover. Discover “Daroco 16,” pure Italiano for pizzas, pasta, risotto and lots of fun.
3, place Clement-Ader 16th.
Tel: +33 (0)1 44 14 91 91.
Menu: €19 (lunch). A La Carte about €35:
Cheval Blanc, Paris: This luxury hotel opens soon. Helming the restaurant will be executive chef Arnaud Donkele (from Cheval Blanc St. Tropez, the three-star La Vague d’Or restaurant) in tandem with chef pâtissier Maxime Frédéric – recently at Le Meurice and Le George V.
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Lead photo credit : Aux Lyonnais. Photo: Pierre Monetta