A French Tradition: The Magic of Escargots

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A French Tradition: The Magic of Escargots
A Poster in Burgundy: Please don’t molest our snails. We eat them. What comes to mind when you think of snails? Slimy? Yes, they are mucus-generating mollusks. Slow? Oui. The only animals slower are coral and sloths. Pests that nibble tiny holes in garden lettuce and leave a trail of who knows what? Certainly a common complaint. Can this creature be transformed into a gourmet delicacy? Credit © Craig Carlson But if you’re French, a lover of traditional French food, or, even better, a Burgundian at heart, you’re more likely to think of that gourmet delicacy—escargots. France is the proud consumer of nearly 60,000 tons of snails a year. National Escargot Day (May 24) slipped by this year with less fanfare because of the more challenging issues of the time. But have no fear. We can honor escargots any time. In fact, escargots have been celebrated for thousands of years. Evidence of shells has been found in prehistoric sites, and snails have been recorded as an elite privilege in Greek and Roman times (with a recipe found in the oldest surviving Roman cookbook from the 1st century). A typical kitchen in Burgundy during snail season. Credit © Françoise Deberdt-Meunier Let Them Eat Snails I was reminded of the agony and ecstasy of escargots in a chapter of Craig Carlson’s new book Let Them Eat Pancakes. (Carlson is the owner of two “Breakfast in America” restaurants in Paris.) He describes a snail experience with his belle maman (mother-in-law) a Burgundy native, that takes place during the escargot hunting season. Yes, there is a snail hunting season in Burgundy—from July 1 through March 31. If you find Burgundy snails (also known as Helix Pomatia) in their usual haunts during that time—vineyards, gardens, and forests—you can harvest them for your personal consumption as long as they are larger than 3 cm. In Burgundy, you can only harvest snails larger than 3 cm. Some of these will have to go. Credit © Françoise Deberdt-Meunier This particular day in Carlson’s book also happened to be snail mating season, so there were hundreds of escargots for the taking. The Transformation After the harvest, the transformation of slimy snail into savory escargot is not an easy process—for the preparer or for the snail. The snail is already a somewhat disadvantaged being. Not only is it slow (snails are so easy to catch that cavemen didn’t know whether to assign “hunters” or “gatherers” to the project), but it is also hard of hearing and mostly blind. Not an ideal life. Then, if caught for an escargot party, it is tortured in stages. (Spoiler alert: if you’re sensitive to animal torture, stop reading here.)
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Lead photo credit : Dreaming of escargots. Credit © Meredith Mullins

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Meredith Mullins is an internationally exhibited fine art photographer and instructor based in Paris. Her work is held in private and museum collections in Europe and the U.S. and can be seen at www.meredithmullins.artspan.com or in her award-winning book "In A Paris Moment." (If you’re in Paris, a few rare, signed copies are available at Shakespeare and Company and Red Wheelbarrow.) She is a writer for OIC Moments and other travel and education publications.

Comments

  • Vivian Jacobs-Geremia
    2020-09-10 05:54:20
    Vivian Jacobs-Geremia
    So intéressant Oui please keep our culture and it’s intricacies coming! Thank you!

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