Where to Eat Now in Paris: Racines, Ducky’s Street Food, Little Nonna, Frappé par Bloom

16 January 2018 by Margaret Kemp    4305  
Where to Eat Now in Paris: Racines, Ducky’s Street Food, Little Nonna, Frappé par Bloom
Margaret Kemp
By Margaret Kemp
Racines Here’s  the year’s first foodie scoop. You’ve asked for news of the talented young chef Simone Tondo… now to be found at Racines located in the iconic Passage des Panoramas, in association with achingly cool serial restaurateur David Lanher (Racines, Racines NYC, Caffé Stern, Le Bon Saint Pourcain, Noglu, Vivant Cave & Table, Paradis). Tondo says he’ll send out local cuisine, with French and Italian inspirations. He’ll change the menu weekly, serving the same dishes, chalked on the blackboard, at lunch and dinner. (Starters – 9-15€, Mains 20-28€, cheese and dessert 7-9€.) Begin with charcuterie – Capocollo from Puglia or Puglia black pudding, salad. Mains include Gnocchi, sausage, ragù; Brill, cabbage, butter, capers, pine nuts; matched with mostly natural wines with a card – created in friendship – by Francesca Tradardi who bonded with Tondo during his time spent in Bertrand Grébaut’s kitchens at Septime. Desserts like Tiramisu Millefeuille with maybe a hit of the chef’s fetish Nutella. Need to Know: Born in Sardinia, Tondo loved cooking with his grandmother. He treasures, and is inspired by, a gift from his father of Ferran Adria’s mammoth cookbook. Tondo’s wacky and brilliant career began formally in the kitchens of a hotel in the Sardinian resort of Alghero before his first professional experience at Mirazur, Menton, in the south of France, with Mauro Colagreco. Rino, Châteaubriand and Gazzetta in Paris followed, before he launched Roseval in the 20th arrondissement and Tondo in the 12th. He arrives at Racines with “Team Tondo” including Stephanie Crockford (ex- Tondo, Salt, Claridges), who will run the restaurant while Simone will be supported in the kitchen by Linkhan, his second at Tondo and Roseval. “Tondo’s menus dance across continents,” says Olive magazine. 8 passage des Panoramas, 2nd. Metro: Grands Boulevards. Tel: 01 40 13 06 41. Open lunch & dinner Tuesday-Saturday. Website: www.racinesparis.com Frappé par Bloom Dating from 1775, the Monnaie de Paris (the Mint) is located in a magnificent listed building.  Serving great coffee, juices and salad, Frappé by Bloom, a chic bistrotheque, makes the perfect pause for a drink with friends at day’s end after visiting the latest exhibition at the Monnaie de Paris. Or, on weekends, the family brunch is a great address where culture and taste buds meet. In a bucolic urban setting, the terrace Cour de la Méridienne is where to chill on warm days, sheltered from the hustle and bustle of the city. Healthy, delicious food includes bowls of vegetarian lasagna, salads, soups, gazpacho, as well as charcuterie and artisanal tarama plates accompanied by Parisian craft beers, natural wine and cocktails in the evening. “We try as much as possible to use locavore organic ingredients,” explains Pauline Bloom. 2 rue Guénégaud, 6th. Metro: Pont Neuf/Saint Michel. Open Tuesday to Sunday. Sunday Brunch €35 (under 10: €16). Website: http://frappe.bloom-restaurant.fr Little Nonna Located at the edge of the bustling Marché Poncelet, the chic trattoria Little Nonna replaces what was the “Casa Luca Niel”. Mission Statement: “everything is house made” and showcases organic gluten-free Italian cuisine by chef Marco, because, “I like to eat healthy”. So, order fresh juices, smoothies and non-alcoholic cocktails – we enjoyed the perfect Prosecco Tenuta Ca Bolani (€6 per glass, €28 bottle). It’s all lovingly dedicated to “Nonna,” Marco Casali’s grandmother “my inspiration”. The menu features plump Buffala DOP mozzarella and Burrata from Pouilles; Campagnola bruschetta with eggplant caviar; charcuterie with cheese and green olives; beef carpaccio, tomatoes and Sardinian ricotta; 4 cheese gnocchi; fresh pasta Bolognese (made with Lombardy flour); spaghetti with lobster; fettuccine with scallops and chanterelles; Nonna burgers; Ossobuca alla Milanese, polenta– to be mopped up with house made gluten-free bread and focaccia. Pizzas include Napoletana, Nonnargherita (margherita), 4 cheese, Marco Polo, Picante, and Dolce Vita. The delicious, gluten-free desserts– like pannacotta, tiramisu, rice pudding with pear apple milk, chocolate tart, and Key Lime Pie– are by Marjorie Foucade of Maison Foucade. A la carte: €18 –  €50. Children’s menu €15. Service from 12h to 14h30 and from 19h to 23h, weekends from 12h to 23h. 12 Avenue Niel, 17th. Metro: Ternes. Tel: 01 46 22 68 17. Terrace for sunny days. Website: http://www.littlenonnaparis.com Ducky’s Street Food Ducky’s Asian street food is causing a stir (fry) among locals and tourists on Boulevard Montparnasse. It was launched by Dan of the epicurean Ang family (behind the iconic rôtisserie in the 13th arrondissement).  Consider classic Peking duck in two services. The 1st service: duck fillets, buns, leeks, cucumber, peking sauce, for the second service: what’s left of the duck with rice or noodles in soy sauce. “Democratize canard laqué (Peking duck)”, is Dan’s concept. “A luxury product at prices everyone can afford”, he insists. We loved the friendly welcome and Ducky’s baoburger with glazed duck and sweet potato fries; vegetarian spring rolls; vegetarian salad, tofu and chives (€8.90) with fluffy steamed buns. There’s also Dim Sum steamed shrimp and chives; steamed pork and very fluffy buns; and Ducky’s Banh Mi (sandwich in a baguette) filled with, say, lacquered duck, lacquered pork loin, or grilled chicken legs. Drink Singha beer with your meal. Menus are priced between €10,90 – €13,90. A la carte €12 – €25. Delicious home-made desserts include the…
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Lead photo credit : Racines

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By Margaret Kemp

Born in Hampton, Middlesex, UK, Margaret Kemp is a lifestyle journalist, based between London, Paris and the world. Intensive cookery courses at The Cordon Bleu, London, a wedding gift from a very astute ex-husband, gave her the base that would take her travelling (leaving the astute one behind) in search of rare food and wine experiences, such as the vineyards of Thailand, 'gator hunting in South Florida, learning to make eye-watering spicy food in Kerala;pasta making in a tiny Tuscany trattoria. She has contributed to The Guardian, The Financial Times Weekend and FT. How To Spend It.com, The Spectator, Condé Nast Traveller, Food & Travel, and Luxos Magazine. She also advises as consultant to luxury hotels and restaurants. Over the years, Kemp has amassed a faithful following on BonjourParis. If she were a dish she'd be Alain Passard's Millefeuille “Caprice d'Enfant”, as a painting: Manet’s Dejeuner sur l’herbe !