Feasting in the 9th Arrondissement: The Complete Guide

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Feasting in the 9th Arrondissement: The Complete Guide

There are few pleasures more readily available than gastronomy in France and even fewer clichés more frequently employed than that of the Frenchman with a baguette in hand and a string of garlic strung around his neck. From fromage to omelette, éclairs to saucisson – the French food scene is indulgent, plentiful, and sometimes quite overwhelming. And when it comes to food in Paris, the two are almost synonymous. Need steering in the right direction? Here’s your complete guide to the best cafés, boulangeries, restaurants, wine bars and brunch spots in the ninth arrondissement – an area which tends to go under the foodie’s radar but has so much to offer once you branch off from the humdrum of the Gare Saint Lazare. Bon appétit!


24 Rue Saint-Lazare

Tucked away in an edgy corner of Rue Saint Lazare, PONI is, at first glance, a wine bar, adorned with colorful bottles of liquor which glint enticingly against the mirrored shelving. But it’s the food here that steals the show. The signature dish, the bavette with garlic cream, rich orzo and fresh mushrooms, is unlike anything I’ve ever prepared. The meat is of exceptionally high quality and the flavors addictive. In the unlikely event that you have room for dessert, the brioche perdue is hugely indulgent and utterly moreish. It’s a fried slab of buttery brioche bread drenched in maple syrup and caramel with a side of ice cream to juxtapose the warmth of the pudding; the portions are so generous we left frustrated we could only manage one dessert between us. The young, lively staff members are hugely accommodating, spirited and enthusiastic. The richly prepared dishes are nourished by the bustling ambience of the modernized art-deco interior, complete with neon lettering, menus scribbled on a roll of brown paper and a copper bar top: this really is the pinnacle of the brasserie moderne.


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51 Rue des Martyrs

Affectionately named after its founders from the Île de Ré, Margot and Scarlette, Marlette is an adorable café located on one of the most gourmand streets in Paris. Designed for those with a penchant for an all-day brunch in mind, the clean, whitewashed exterior feels like a suitable place to refresh and refuel after a grasse matinée. The ethos of the café is firmly anchored within organic produce: the viennoiseries only use hand-milled artisan flour and all of the ingredients are sourced from reputable sources. The coffee is smooth and velvety, served with a homemade madeleine on the side. You can even purchase some of their viennoiseries in the café while you’re there, all of which are crafted using unrefined cane sugar (rapadura), giving a hint of caramel. Want to recreate their sweet treats yourself? Take a look on their website for recipes for their renowned fondant au chocolat, pain d’épices, cake au rapadura or muffins aux pépites de chocolat. There are even gluten-free versions for those who are intolerant. The chain, which takes its laid-back ethos from the Australian coffee shop trend, also has premises in Poissonnière and the Marais.


77 rue de Rochechouart

Coined le café bobo-brooklynien and located in the trendy quartier of Pigalle, Papilles is the spot for an American-style brunch with a French twist. I had some unbeatable fluffy savory pancakes with a fried egg and perfectly crispy maple bacon. If pancakes aren’t your thing, why not try the indulgent brioche perdue with apple compote and maple syrup? Or you can’t go wrong with the croque mamiche, using croissants from local boulangerie, Mamiche, and accompanied with an unorthodox filling of fried chicken, rocket, pickles, siracha and a jalapeño slaw. You’re greeted with bohemian tie-dye effect menus, and the décor is hip and relaxed, adorned with dried pampas grass bouquets, turquoise velvet sofas and rattan chairs with exposed brick walls to add to the shabby-chic look. As the website says in perfect franglais: du bon manger all day!


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Le Bon Georges

45 Rue Saint-Georges

If you’re looking for the ultimate bistro parisien, Le Bon Georges provides haute cuisine in the most welcoming setting. With high quality local ingredients and an in-house sommelier, Benoît (the dedicated owner since 2013) has created a truly luxurious experience. I had the steak frites which was melty and rich, served on a rustic wooden chopping board and accompanied by some seriously crispy chips. With an authentic French storefront and old-fashioned wine and spirits bottles lining the shelves, the restaurant feels cozy and inviting on a chilly winter evening. There’s also a heated terrace but be sure to book because reservations are few and far between.


10 Rue des Martyrs

A modern take on the traditional rustic boulangerie, Farine&O offers a delectable selection of pastries, tarts, canelés and a selection of traditional baguettes (the rustique is my favorite when I’m craving tartines slathered with salty bréton butter and sweet confiture aux abricots). The geometric square-shaped tarts, a contemporary twist on the commonly round Parisian gateau, come generously filled with an array of delicate fillings: from pear to lemon, raspberry to apple, these are the gateaux par excellence. Get there early to prepare for the queues on a Sunday morning – there’s a reason why Farine’s boulanger, Olivier Magne, Paris’s viennoiserie heavyweight, earned the title of Meilleur Ouvrier de France in 2015. You can also get your Farine&O fix in the 19th and 20th.


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Chez Delphine

48 Rue Saint-Georges

If you’re on the hunt for a hearty French meal, the chefs at Chez Delphine, Raphaël and Loïc, pay homage to traditional cuisine through their craft with dishes such as escargots de Bourgogne, pâté en croûte maison and brioche perdue caramel beurre salé. In an intimately lit setting, luxuriate in the refined flavors of the delicately crafted seasonal dishes for 24€ for an entrée + plat + dessert. There’s definitely an air of indulgence about the setting, which is no larger than someone’s kitchen. The stiff white tablecloths seem ironed to within an inch of their lives, and Chez Delphine branded material aprons donned by the garçons are reminiscent of the historical café litteraire in which eating becomes a crucial part of socializing and the exchange of ideas.

Coeur de Breizh

53 rue des Martyrs

If you’re in search of an authentic buckwheat galette bretonne, this spot is a quaint crêperie located at the top of the Rue des Martyrs which firmly believes that pancakes can be eaten whenever the fancy takes you. It serves a wide variety of sweet and savory pancakes – I opted for the croque madame galette, generously filled with the French savory holy trinity of ham, Comté and a signature fried egg on top. Drinks are served in charming, white and blue striped nautical bols in keeping with the French breakfast ritual. You can even purchase your own bol so that you can have a little slice of this crêpe heaven in your own home. It wouldn’t quite be the same, of course – the ambiance cannot be replicated.

KB Coffee Roasters

53 Avenue Trudaine

Nestled at the foot of South Pigalle is KB Coffee Roasters, the go-to, laid-back spot for caffeine connoisseurs. When it comes to coffee beans, the baristas at KB are always on top of the trends. Sample the beans from Kenya, Guatemala, Costa Rica, Salvador, Panama, Ethiopia, Indonesia and Colombia – the roastery is always looking for new blends to offer to their loyal customer base, accompanied by banana bread or a slice of chocolate babka. This is the perfect spot to do some people-watching on the bustling corner of the Rue des Martyrs, or for a caffeine boost before attempting to conquer the daunting hill to the heights of Montmartre. Unable to make a trip there? Why not investigate the monthly coffee subscriptions or browse the boutique for an appliance to improve your at-home coffee grinding game? KB is a stalwart at the annual Paris Coffee Festival in May.

Lead photo credit : a delicious Quiche with filling beef and cheese Photo by Keriliwi on Unsplash

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Claudia lived in Paris for six months during a year abroad which she did as part of her French and Spanish degree at Durham University. With a penchant for all things culture, languages, food and flânerie, she quickly discovered why it is that the French capital is so widely celebrated. While she was in Paris, she started writing for Ma Vie Francaise, an online-based publication about Francophone cultures. After completing an MA in Newspaper Journalism at City, University of London last year, she’s currently working as an editorial intern at Monocle Magazine, a globally-minded publication which focuses on culture, urbanism and business. Her favorite Parisian hidden gem is the Musée de la Vie Romantique, and if you’re a gourmand(e), she recommends paying a visit to the Rue des Martyrs.


  • Ellen Corradini
    2022-11-19 12:08:43
    Ellen Corradini
    Claudia, thanks so much for a preview of these restaurants! I hope to spend more time in the 9th while I'm in Paris in a couple of weeks and am looking forward to trying at least one or two of them!


    • Claudia Jacob
      2022-11-23 05:18:46
      Claudia Jacob
      Hi Ellen - enjoy the 9th! It's a lovely place with lots on offer