A Sort of Air Condition

The recent canicule, reminiscent of the disastrous one in 2003, prompted my friend P. to suggest that I warn Americans what to expect in Paris when they ask the simple question – “Is your restaurant air-conditioned?”   Four of us were on one of our gastronomic tears in Paris during the heat wave and we were looking to eat at fine old favorites and a few fine new favorites but not in tropical conditions.  So naturally we asked when making reservations: “Is your restaurant air-conditioned?”  The answer invariably was “Of course.” The first day we went to a relatively new place, Ribouldingue, where Yves Camdeborde’s ex-second at Le Comptoir du Relais prides himself on serving abats, e.g. innards.  It’s located in the old Fogon space, you know, the one chef’d by Alberto Herraiz, the paella king of Paris.  Which may explain why it was perfectly chilly; all that spice and open paella pans call for moderation in temperature. But the next day we approached Drouant – the resto recently restored with loving care by Antoine Westerman of Mon Viel Ami and Le Beurehiesel in Strasbourg – and walked through the terrace to the dining room and it seemed about the same temperature as outside under the umbrellas.  And indeed, it was.  For the simple reason that the huge windows between the internal salle and external sidewalk were wide open.  We chose the “terrace” and 75% of us were OK with it, but air-conditioned it was not, unless you count the breeze emanating from the passing “motos.” Then we ate at Les Anges aka Chez Les Anges, another wonderfully resuscitated place, where there is no terrace but where toward the front there is a quite visible air-conditioning duct.  However, the huge sliding glass window fronting the street and front door were open.  We must have asked twice for relief from the heat and finally were rewarded with some breeze from overhead when the glass window was closed (but the door left open). And finally, what a difference a day makes.  Colette and I had eaten earlier in the week at Jarrasse in Neuilly, yet another old place with a new face, this by father and daughter Rostang, and it was not bad – the temperature I mean; the food was spectacular.  But the other part of our foursome ate there a week or so later, on a much hotter day, and wouldn’t you know, their report was not a favorable one to the concept of climatisation.  So what’s the lesson here?  Well, there is certainly a cultural difference between the French and the Americans’ feelings about air-conditioning – Example, my next door neighbor was about to throw out his perfectly fine rolling room A/C in the midst of the awful heat wave  because “it took up too much space” and after sensing my astonishment at his intention, bequeathed it to me.  Second, sometimes getting a breeze on the terrace, even from passing vehicles, is better than being stuck inside a room with no moving air.  And lastly, ask if you must about A/C but even though the answer may be “Surely,” expect instead “Sort of.” My favorites from the above: Drouant 16-18, place Gaillon, 2nd (Metro: Quatre-Septembre) T: 01.42.65.15.16 Open everyday Plat de jour 20 €, Lunch Menu 45 €, Menu-carte 67 €.  Mon Vieil Ami 69 St Louis en l’Ile, 4th (Metro : Pont Marie) T: 01.40.46.01.35 Closed Monday and Tuesday lunch Menu 38 €. Chez les Anges aka Les Anges 54, bd de Latour-Maubourg, 7th (Metro : Latour-Maubourg ) T: 01.47.05.89.86 Closed Saturday lunch and Sundays Menu 35 €, a la carte around 45-50 €. Ribouldingue 10, rue Saint Julien le Pauvre 5th (Metro : St Michel) T: 01.46.33.98.80 Closed Sunday and Monday Menu-carte 25 €, a la carte 30-35 €. Jarrasse 4, ave Madrid in Neuilly (Metro: Pont de Neuilly) T: 01.46.24.07.56 Open 7/7 Menu 38 € A la carte 40-80 €. Fogon Saint-Julien 45, quai Grands Augustins, 6th (Metro: St Michel) T : 01.43.54.31.33 Closed Mondays Rice menu: 35 €, paella for two 36 €.