Paris From Above

A wonderful way to see Paris is from the air. While that is not readily possible, most people choose to climb to Sacre Coeur, especially as night falls over the city of lights or to go atop the famous Eiffel Tower for a view that’s hard to beat. I’ve even walked to the top of the Arc De Triomphe where a view of the cars rounding the Etoile without stop signs or traffic lights is a miracle looking for a disaster. It reminded me of ants scurrying to and fro without collisions. I traveled to the western Peripherique and ascended the arc shaped office building at La Defense.  I must admit that if I can see anything from above it gives me joy. Recently after almost 40 trips to Paris I took the advice of a friend and rode the 40-second elevator to the 59th floor of the TOUR MONTPARNASSE. I am glad I did since I do suffer from mild vertigo. Here I could get a closer 360-degree look at the wonders of Paris below.  The Montparnasse Tower is really an office building, built between 1969 and 1972 and is the tallest building in France. It was one of George Pompidou’s great schemes and while it has some good points, it is still a bit of a sore eye for some.  Set next to the great station Gare Montparnasse and in the middle of an area absorbed by only lower buildings, it sticks out like a sore thumb. Nothing grew up around it and for many, putting a tall building in a city of wonderful centuries- old structures of normal height, was a colossal mistake. Since then the modern skyscrapers are mostly at La Defense or at least outside the circular Periferique.  If you haven’t seen it you would hardly liken it to New York’s Empire State building that stands twice as high and was built over 40 years ago. It is just the fact that in Paris, the Tower sits by itself. But it’s there for all of time so you might as well get the view it offers. I think it’s one of the best in Paris. It’s above it all but close enough to see the sights below without binoculars. This is a wonderful view of the Eiffel Tower and La Defense from Montparnasse.  The observation deck on the 56th floor offers a must-see experience. You are 640 feet above the street in a more comfortable setting than atop the Eiffel Tower. Don’t get me wrong. I am hardly decrying the Eiffel Tower. It’s a magnificent structure as seen from anywhere in the city. It just remains that Montparnasse is different. From here you can see every landmark you know. There is a coffee shop, a bar (“360 Café”), souvenir shop and indoor and outdoor viewing decks. It is clean, modern and always being updated with exhibition galleries, interactive facilities including a film theatre showing a spectacular 20-minute film.  Most people chose Sacre Coeur, La Defense or the Eiffel Tower. I say, add the Tour Montparnasse to your next sightseeing trip to Paris. There’s a charge for the elevator but, c’est la vie.  And before you go up or after you are done, linger in the Montparnasse area. There are many remnants of the great 1920s restaurants and bistros such as Le Select, Le Dome, La Coupole or La Rotonde. The great artistic names of the period lived just off Blvd Montparnasse like Hemingway, Gertrude Stein, Ezra Pound, Henry Miller and Man Ray, the photographer and Dada artist. It was alive with artistic people then and it still is today.   My suggestion is La Coupole, which is a short walk from the tower. The food is good, the service excellent, and the atmosphere totally Paris even with the crowds. Try their lamb curry. Look for me, I’m there often.  La Coupole is at 102 Blvd. Montparnasse (since 1927). www.flobrasserie.com