Ice Skating in Paris

On a clear winter evening in Paris, the ice reflects the soft glow of streetlamps and shop windows. Blades whisper across the surface and someone lets out a short laugh after a wobble and a save. From frozen ponds to Belle Époque arenas to rooftop pop-ups, Paris now has steady year-round ice for training and seasonal rinks for ambiance. 

Before refrigeration, Parisians waited for cold snaps when basins froze in the parks and ponds became informal arenas. The earliest scenes were simple with coats buttoned tight, cheeks bright, and careful figures traced on imperfect ice. At Versailles, Marie Antoinette skated on the palace lakes during hard winters, and decades later Napoleon III and Empress Eugénie did the same. 

By the 1870s, artificial ice and enclosed rinks reached Paris and suddenly skating could be scheduled, which changed everything. You could book an evening, bring friends, listen to music, and know that the ice would be there. A circular hall near the Champs Élysées became a society destination where people came to glide, watch, and be seen. Technique improved because people could practice on schedule, and clubs formed with coaches, leading the sport to take root.  

On the coldest days the city still remembers. During the deep freeze of 1929 the lakes in the Bois de Boulogne turned to clear, weighty ice and drew half the city westward. By late afternoon the Lower Lake was a crisscross of blade marks with kids testing balance near the bank while confident skaters cut wider loops toward the centre. Vendors rolled out braziers and paper cups of hot wine, gendarmes paced the edges and roped off thin patches, and music carried from portable gramophones. Newsreels from that winter show Paris answering ice with good humour and long scarves. 

Did people ever skate on the Seine?  

Paintings from the early 1600s show skaters near the Louvre, and later cold snaps turned the river into winter ground for a few memorable weeks, most famously in 1891 and again during the brutal winters of 1947 and 1956. People glided where barges usually moved, weaving around market stalls set up on the ice. That era has passed as warmer winters and tighter river management mean the Seine through central Paris almost never freezes now, and any ice is treated as unsafe. 

Where to skate year-round in the city 

Pailleron Ice Rink, 19th arrondissement: Reliable, central enough, and friendly to beginners. Public sessions run across the week with rental skates on site. Expect families, students, and a steady flow of first timers during school holidays. 

Bercy, inside the Accor Arena complex: When the event schedule allows, public sessions share time with club training. The sheet is large, the acoustics give music some presence, and you are a short walk from the line of cafés along the Seine. 

Neighborhood sports centers: Smaller sheets appear within multi-sport complexes across the city. Schedules are practical, with early evening and weekend sessions designed for local skaters. If you want a low-key hour, these are a good bet. 

The best Parisian ice skating rinks for winter 2025–2026 

Grand Palais des Glaces, 8th arrondissement 

14 December 2025–7 January 2026. The Nave becomes a 2,700 m² sheet billed as the world’s largest indoor rink. Daylight shows off the ironwork by day and evenings feel theatrical with music and lighting. Plenty of space for steady laps. 

Galeries Lafayette Rooftop, 9th arrondissement 

1 December 2025–4 January 2026. A compact open-air rink above Boulevard Haussmann with Eiffel Tower views. Sessions start from 10.30 (11.30 Sundays). Friendly for first timers, easy skate hire, and an easy walk to cafés below. 

Printemps Haussmann Rooftop, 9th arrondissement 

8 November 2025–4 January 2026. The 7e Ciel terrace hosts a smaller seasonal rink with a sleek, city feel. Best for relaxed circuits at sunset, quick photos over the rooftops, and a warm-up stop inside afterward. 

Tuileries Christmas Market Rink, 1st arrondissement 

15 November 2025–4 January 2026. A busy, festive rink inside the market with lights, rides, and food stalls close at hand. Surfaces are tended often enough for beginners, and it’s an easy all-in Christmas outing. 

Plaza Athénée Courtyard, 8th arrondissement 

27 November 2025–31 January 2026. Intimate courtyard rink with a cosy chalet for raclette and hot drinks. Also an option of coached slots for children. 

Parc Astérix, Oise 

20 December 2025–4 January 2026. Part of the Noël Gaulois season with shows and a Christmas market. The outdoor rink is a welcome pause between rides and makes a good late-afternoon stop. 

Enghien-les-Bains, Val-d’Oise 

Late November–4 January 2026. Lakeside illuminations, a small rink, and a compact market. Go for an easy half-day, skate as dusk falls, then stroll the esplanade with something warm in hand. 

For atmosphere pick the Grand Palais or the rooftops. For practice and space aim for Bercy or Pailleron on weekday afternoons. For an easy family hour, the neighborhood rinks keep it simple, with friendly staff and straightforward schedules. Wherever you go, check session times before you lace up, bring gloves, and give yourself a few laps to settle in. 

Chilly mornings, glittering lights, and cozy tea rooms where you can thaw out over a steaming chocolat chaud. Our second issue of reBonjour is a celebration of Paris in winter, created for travelers and Francophiles who want to embrace the season rather than escape it. We explore how Belle Époque artists portrayed Paris in the snow, uncover the history of the city’s iconic covered passages, and step beneath the Palais Garnier. You will find the best places for hot chocolate, ice skating in the city, Christmas markets, New Year traditions, winter skincare rituals, hammams, shopping the winter sales, stylish cold weather outfits, and more. reBonjour is an invitation to embrace winter in Paris, from festive sparkle to slow, indoor pleasures.