A Guide to the Must-See Niche Shops of Paris


Fresh off the stress of holiday shopping, it’s already sale season. Thankfully, the French have even consumerism down to an art: buy what you need, when you need it, and to last generations. And all the better if it happens to be on sale. When you’re tired of scrolling, can’t face the same series of mass market chains, and are craving something novel, seek harbor in Paris’s most idiosyncratic shops.
Head to the Librairie Alain Brieux on the rue Jacob to nurture your inner 19th-century medical student. Just around the corner from the fac de médecine, visitors can immerse themselves in porcelain medical model hearts, rare books, and pajamas by P. Le Moult one could easily envision wearing out and about. The store is crammed with fascinating and grotesque oddities of the scientific variety, so set aside some time to ogle. You may discover the perfect gift for your most twisted friend, or overhear some juicy hyperlocal gossip.
Librairie Alain Brieux, 48 Rue Jacob, 6th
Ping Passion. Photo: Maria Kern
It doesn’t get much more specific than the Parisian shop dedicated to ping-pong, Ping Passion. Stretching a generous span of the Quai d’Austerlitz, the interior is actually quite cramped, packed to the gills with clothing, paddles, and accessories for the table tennis champion in your life. But really, athletes (or even athleisure addicts) of any stripe will likely appreciate the lightweight shorts and jerseys that can be worn on runs, to play tennis, or hiking. Pay a visit to get into character before Marty Supreme hits French theaters next month.
Ping Passion, 7 Quai d’Austerlitz, 13th
For hats, the discerning customer has two options in town: Anthony Peto on the right bank, and Atelier 144 on the left. Both are the brainchildren of Monsieur Peto himself, a visionary British milliner based in Paris. His atelier turns out classic headwear fashioned from rabbit hair and ostrich feathers, or for the more subdued customer, wool felt and straw. Place a custom order by selecting size, material, color, and optional trim, or buy directly off the shelf. Orders are typically whipped up within a week. Peto employs a cast of high-energy, charismatic salesladies to run both stores — go see Elizabeth or Valentine to be regaled with tales of celebrity clientele and instructed on the importance of a good hat.
Anthony Peto, 56 Rue Tiquetonne, 2nd
Atelier 144, 23 Rue Saint-Sulpice, 6th
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A staple of the rue Saint-Sulpice since 1971, Mohanjeet stocks an expansive collection of handprinted, one of a kind pieces made in India, in silk, cotton, and wool. Jewel tones, block prints, and clever layering evoke a kind of bohemian opulence, and the wandering eye has no cap on travels here, swept up in silk scarves, beaded bags, and statement jewelry. The adorable staff are happy to discuss the intricate details of the work involved in creating each item, from weaving to dying to cutting. Every piece is unique, and there are no size runs, so what you love may not be a perfect fit. But that’s all part of the experience, and perhaps you’ll embrace new proportions. If anyone can convince you, it’s Mohanjeet herself, the iconic 95-year-old owner.
Mohanjeet, 21 Rue Saint-Sulpice, 6th
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For Irish knits and suiting, head to 26 Brumaire in the 11th. Traditional fabrics are precision-cut into chic tailoring for both women and men, and donegal sweaters are stocked in every color of the rainbow. You’ll also find winter staples like hats, mittens, and lambswool vests straight off the farm — yes, that is the charming scent of lanolin in the air. Feeling more Viking than Celt? Head to Kerstin Adolphson on the boulevard Saint Germain, a Scandinavian boutique specializing in knits, clogs, and versatile tunics. Oversized socks from Norway and cashmere hats line drawers next to sweaters in novelty nordic motifs for women and men.
26 Brumaire, 26 Av. de la République, 11th
Kerstin Adolphson, 157 Bd Saint-Germain, 6th
Buttons Paradise. Photo: Maria Kern
Venetian slippers have taken Paris by storm, but for the authentic article in every color, seek out Sophie D’Annunzia on the rue du Cherche-Midi. Stocked like a lingerie closet, this tiny store also carries a nice selection of knits, mostly from Scotland and Italy. Fair isle cardigans hang next to delicate cashmere pullovers, and you’ll find silk camisoles and merino longsleeves to pair underneath. And for the button-obsessed, Paris has you covered with Buttons Paradise in the 7th. Browse an astonishing selection of haute couture and vintage buttons alongside original jewelry designed by the owner.
Sophie D’Annunzia, 17 Rue du Cherche-Midi, 6th
Buttons Paradise, 10 Rue du Pré aux Clercs, 7th
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For hostess or birthday gifts, head to Ikat in the 4th, or Travelingue, in the 14th. Ikat specializes in artisanal textiles, dolls, and ceramics from Japan, while Travelingue has been serving a devoted gift-seeking clientele since 1989, and is still staffed by the same owner. The merchandise here has a sense of humor and whimsy about it, from printed scarves made in France to colorful greeting cards, candlesticks and cushions. Plus everything is carefully wrapped upon request.
Ikat, 36 Rue François Miron, 4th
Travelingue, 20 Rue Boulard, 14th
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Perhaps you have a hunting trip planned later in the year, or a weekend invitation from that aristocratic acquaintance at the office? With access to Mettez on the boulevard Malesherbes, there’s no excuse to show up unprepared. As Paris’s official Austrian and British outerwear specialists, the salespeople here are dreadfully rude, but don’t let their snobbism deter you. The merchandising is brilliant, and product quality unparalleled. Conjure images of the chateaux in your future as you don classic Austrian hunting jackets, cashmere basics in a range of pastels, and outerwear fit for heavy downpours and blood spatter.
Mettez, 9 Bd Malesherbes, 8th
G Detou. Photo: Maria Kern
Because this is Paris, one can’t neglect gourmandises. For not one but two shops so distinguished they need only be known by first initial and last name, head to the neighborhood around l’eglise Saint Eustache. G. Detou and E. Dehillerin are must stops for chefs and home cooks, gourmands and gourmets. At G. Detou, you’ll find essentials like purée of prickly pear from Mexico, edible flowers, and the full range of both Valrhona chocolate slabs and Monin syrups. Stop next door to visit their sister location specializing in salmon and foie gras. Once laden with goodies, head down the street to E. Dehillerin to outfit your kitchen like a professional, with everything from copper pans to paring knives. And for the final course, head across the river to the Librarie Gourmande, a bookstore that was once in the same neighborhood but has since moved to the left bank, specializing in cookbooks and food writing.
G. Detou, 58 Rue Tiquetonne, 2nd
E. Dehillerin, 18-20 Rue Coquillière, 1st
Librairie Gourmande, 50 Rue Vavin, 6th
Gaijin. Photo: Maria Kern
Paris is littered with secondhand and vintage shops, but only Gaijin can claim an exclusivity clause with Japanese designers. Come here to track down pre-loved pieces from major names like Issey Miyake, Junya Watanabe, and Comme des Garçons, as well as a varied selection of smaller designers. Everything is organized by color, and there’s a decent ratio of pieces available in larger sizes, unusual for vintage. Staff are knowledgeable, friendly, and intensely stylish, acting as effective advertisements for the product. The space is small and gets crowded very quickly, so try going at off hours during the week.
Gaijin, 20 Rue du Pont aux Choux, 3rd
Lead photo credit : Librairie Alain Brieux. Photo: Maria Kern