Paris Restaurant News: Taillevent, Edern, Pigalle Fromage Club, Girafe

12 October 2018 by Margaret Kemp    3170  
Paris Restaurant News: Taillevent, Edern, Pigalle Fromage Club, Girafe
Margaret Kemp
By Margaret Kemp
“A walk in Paris will provide lessons in history, beauty, and the point of life.”– Thomas Jefferson Le Taillevent Taillevent is named in homage to the first French cookbook, written by Guillame Tirel– whose nickname was Taillevent. The restaurant, located in a handsome Haussmannian townhouse on a quiet street near the Arc de Triomphe, opened its imposing doors in 1946. The founder, not a chef, was André Vrinat; the exclusive maison won its first Michelin star in 1948, the second in 1954 and the third in 1973 under chef Claude Deligne. In 1972 Jean-Claude Vrinat took over from his father and, since his passing in 2008, Taillevent has been acquired by the Gardinier Brothers. Michel del Burgo, Philippe Legendre and Alain Solivérès were former chefs, Le Taillevent – controversially and sadly – lost its third Michelin star in 2007. Since September 2018 a page has turned with an exciting new young talent in the kitchens. Meet David Bizet who formerly trained here with his spiritual master Philippe Legendre. Illuminating cellars and salle with his incredible savoir-faire, Antoine Petrus is the superb James Bond style Director General. The food’s exquisite – game features on the fall menu (like hare, grouse and wild duck). Lunch €90-€110 with wine pairings from the extensive cellars. Menu Quintessence (€198), A La Carte about €143 plus wine, or consider the Prix Goncourt winner (1985 The Wedding) “Les 5 de Yann Queffélec” choosing his 5 favorite dishes €230-€370 with matching wines. Book now for: Secrets de Terroirs. Winegrowers host exclusive dinners and share tips passed on from generation to generation. A gastronomic and oenological discovery trip includes 6 courses and 6 wines. Thursday 15th November 2018 at 8pm – Domaine Marquis d’Angerville, Volnay with Guillaume d’Angerville. Tuesday 4th December 2018 at 8pm – Domaine Leflaive, Puligny Montrachet, Macon (since 1717) with Pierre Vincent 15 rue Lamennais, 8th. Metro: Charles de Gaulle-Etoile. Tel: 01 44 95 15 01 Closed Saturday & Sunday. Valet parking Edern Gilles Epié’s former Citrus Etoile– the backdrop for France 2 TV soap Chefs, the sexy and dark drama series with Clovis Cornillac– is now an edgy eatery created by Strasbourg-born chef Jean-Edern Hurstel. Edern’s 60 seat restaurant and sexy downstairs cigar lounge is signed by British designer Paul Bishop of Bishop Design. A miniature Formula 1 car is suspended outside the semi open kitchen; the chef, a motor racing fan, tips Charles Leclerc (driving for Ferrari next year) as a future champion. “This project has been my dream for years,” says Hurstel. The handsome, talented former M6 Top Chef contestant (2014) sharpened his sabatiers in Dubai and at The Peninsula, Paris; Lucas Carton, Paris; Arpège, Paris; Gordon Ramsay’s Aubergine, London; Auberge de l’Ill, chez les Haeberlin and Alain Ducasse at Louis XV Monaco. A recent menu (share or not) featured Brittany crab, coral and tarragon; marinated Scottish salmon gravlax; tomato pissaladière; marinated chicken wings with soy sauce. Monsieur Fabre’s goat cheese is used for the melting honey and rosemary cromesquis. Blue lobster sits on an emulsion of shellfish and crispy langoustine is drizzled with basil sauce; thick cut veal is matched with macaroni, onion confit and cèpes mushrooms; mop up with warm bread by Frédéric Lalos. Desserts, by chef patissier Yann Le Douran, are rich and delicious as in the geometric puddle of creamy Guanaja chocolate, chocolate tuiles and buckwheat ice cream (yes really!). Outside a shiny Maserati bears the legend EDERN! Inside Mr. DJ composes sets late into the night. Lunch formula is €45 in 45 minutes. Dinner about €80 A La Carte. Tasting Menu €120 6 Rue Arsène Houssaye, 75008. Metro: Charles de Gaulle/Etoile. Closed Sunday & Monday. Tel: 01 45 63 88 01 Girafe Nestled behind the Cité de l’Architecture on place Trocadéro, Girafe is the latest project from dynamic duo Gilles Malafosse and Laurent de Gourcuff (Loulou, Monsieur Bleu, Le YoYo, Le Flandrin etc). Paris-based architect Joseph Dirand’s decor is inspired by the 30s: a feast for the senses with green vertical tropical plant walls, banquettes and a magnificent giant 16-seat marble bar which also showcases the magnificent gleaming catch of the day, waiting to be cooked “how you like it.” Chef Benoît Dargère takes inspiration from time at l’Arpège with Alain Passard and Clos Saint Basile, Mougins. Mathieu Foureau (you remember him from Le Crillon and Thoumieux) heads the immaculate brigade working the room. You’ll be planning the next visit (book well ahead) as you tuck into say, “tartare du jour”: Sologne caviar; Marinated and sashimi style raw fish; Tataki of tuna and avocado (a winner); Cod/morilles/girolles/mousseron mushrooms – wow! Desserts include Pavlova, mile high Millefeuille, chocolate chouquettes. Girafe’s USP is the spectacular panoramic (heated) terrace, fantastic for lunch – so romantic for dinner in tête-a-tête with the Eiffel Tower and your George Clooney. 1, Place du Trocadéro et du 11 Novembre, 16th. Metro: Trocadéro. Open 7/7. Tel: 01 40 62 70 61. Pigalle Fromage Club Forget Groucho Marx; “I don’t care to belong to any club that will have me as a member.” cut along to SOPI (South of Pigalle) where charismatic Yves de Roquemaurel launched Pigalle Fromage Club, inspired by world travels and his love of wine, charcuterie and saki. The cheeses, in perfect condition bien sûr, are by
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Lead photo credit : Courtesy of Le Taillevent

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By Margaret Kemp

Born in Hampton, Middlesex, UK, Margaret Kemp is a lifestyle journalist, based between London, Paris and the world. Intensive cookery courses at The Cordon Bleu, London, a wedding gift from a very astute ex-husband, gave her the base that would take her travelling (leaving the astute one behind) in search of rare food and wine experiences, such as the vineyards of Thailand, 'gator hunting in South Florida, learning to make eye-watering spicy food in Kerala;pasta making in a tiny Tuscany trattoria. She has contributed to The Guardian, The Financial Times Weekend and FT. How To Spend It.com, The Spectator, Condé Nast Traveller, Food & Travel, and Luxos Magazine. She also advises as consultant to luxury hotels and restaurants. Over the years, Kemp has amassed a faithful following on BonjourParis. If she were a dish she'd be Alain Passard's Millefeuille “Caprice d'Enfant”, as a painting: Manet’s Dejeuner sur l’herbe !