Origines, Gilberte, Huîtres & Saumons, Breizh Café Paul Bert: Restaurants in Paris

19 December 2019 by Margaret Kemp    1870    2
Origines, Gilberte, Huîtres & Saumons, Breizh Café Paul Bert: Restaurants in Paris
Margaret Kemp
By Margaret Kemp
“Food should be fun.” –Thomas Keller Plate Expectations! Where to eat now in Paris? Here are some addresses I recommend this month. Origines A former greasy spoon burger joint off the Champs Elysées is now a chic, 35-seat restaurant, a dream come true for the talented, passionate Julien Boscus. He traveled the world, worked in London, Seoul, with Pierre Gagnaire, more recently at Carole Colin and Denis Jamet’s Les Climats in the 7th. “Now I’m here,” he grins, proudly surveying Origines with its bright, modern décor by architect Caroline Tissier and welcoming vibes. There’s an amusing amuse bouche of veal tongue (vitello tonnato), romanesco flower and Cantal cheese– but “everything changes every ten minutes!” Boscus warns. Starters today are Duck Foie Gras, peppery grains de Paradis, Piedmont hazelnuts and Solliès figs – cut with Pear William and quince juice (€28); Baie de Somme scallops, avocado, lemon guacamole include passion fruit (€27); or Boscus’ spin on tradi fricasée of cèpes (wild mushrooms) – coffee Iapar (Malay) mousseline (€26) Mains may be game (red partridge/grouse); Yeu Island grilled/poached sea-bream, mousseline of smoked artichoke, with Utah Beach cockles and seaweed butter (€34); Pan roast Basque pink veal, sweet Cévennes mushrooms (€36); or rich, smooth Hare de Beauce à la Royale – style Antonin Carême – ravioli, purée of héliantis and red beetroot (€48). Sommelèire Olivia Thalgott suggests Domaine du Pas d’Escalette AOP Terrasses du Larzac— also lovely with cheese from Terroirs d’Avenir (€16) and Jean-Luc Poujauran’s beautiful breads. To finish, young pastry chef Laura Vervoort (ex-Robouchon) gathers pears from Yannick Colombié, poaches them in Lot Valley caramel honey, and adds pear sorbet/ginger (€16). And maybe there’s cardamon autumn cheesecake with chestnut ice cream. “Respect the products – the rest comes naturally,” reflects Boscus. Oui, chef! 6 rue de Ponthieu, 8th Metro: Franklin D Roosevelt, Tel: +33 (0)9 86 41 63 04 Closed Saturday & Sunday Huîtres & Saumons The lovely church of Notre Dame de L’Assomption (1670) is across the cobblestones from Huîtres & Saumons. “Do you pop in to mass and pray for good products and lots of bookings?” I ask Victor Seisson-Dirat and Timothée Berthet who recently launched this charming neo-tradi fish and seafood address on the long narrow rue de l’Assomption in the Passy neighborhood. “Well we don’t have a lot of time at present,” they laugh. “But the clergy have been over and blessed this house!” Good beginnings, eh!? H & S, where the Atlantic is showcased on artisan designer dishes, takes inspiration from Victor’s happy holidays on Cap Ferret, the chic Côte d’Argent seaside town famous for its ostreicole (oyster farming), lighthouse, and Ocean Beach lifestyle. “Everything can be ordered to go”, says Victor. “We prepare it so you can just pop it in the oven and say, “of course I made it!” Or, consider the seasonal bounty of Plateaux (from about €33-€53 per person), perfect for Christmas. What’s on the menu? Oeuf Parfait/Cauliflower/Smoked Eel; Crab tartare/Smoked Salmon/Remoulade Granny Smith; Taramas nature, crab, sea-urchin or truffles; Seaweed tartare and house baked seaweed bread. Mains include signature Salmon Tartar; Flash fried scallops/Jerusalem artichokes and girolles mushrooms; Slow cooked beef stew; Fish of the day. For dessert, try the warm, molten chocolate cake, topped with Chantilly cream. Somm Guillaume Darblay’s wine card is vibrant. We tasted Lieutenant de Sigalas 2016 white (glass €8.90, bottle €34) and Michel Moine’s aromatic Vin de Rhubarbe, Blanc de Vosges 2014 (€45). Lunch & Dinner €24.90-€29.90. Starters (to share or not) from €13.50-€20. Mains are priced between €23-€44. Desserts €8.50. Try a selection of caviars Baeri from Aquitaine for €60-€2,000. 17, rue de l’Annonciation, 16th Metro: La Muette Tel: +33 (0)1 42 88 19 64 Closed Sunday-Monday (gone fishing) & Christmas day Gilberte How divine seated on the heated terrace opposite the fabled Hotel La Louisiane, built in 1823 by a Napoleon army officer who made his fortune trading animal skins in Louisiana. It was home to Jean-Paul Sartre (room 10) and Simone de Beauvoir (room 68) who, by day, scribbled their works in the nearby Cafe de Flore and partied balmy left-bank nights away. Today they’d just have to pop across the rue to Gilberte, recently opened by Michel Boiron and Olivier Flottes in place of the big Boucherie/Charcuterie Claude & Cie. There’s something for everyone on the deliciously curated menu. Think Croque Monsieur with turkey (€15), signature pâté en croute (€17), egg Mayo (€9), scrambled eggs with truffles (€25), Salads – Veggie (€19), Caesar (€21), Gratin Germanopratin +€6, Mac’Cheese + €6, Aquitaine Beef tartar (€21). And there’s 50 shades of chicken from the rôtisserie (€19-€75). Cheese by Mme Barthélémy (about €10) and desserts include a wicked French Toast (€11). As well as cocktails and mocktails (€12) – by the glass – about €14 for a rich Patrimonio Corse. The wine wall has 300 choices (we chose St. Joseph-Lieu Dit – 2013 from Monsieur Guigal €72). Lunch €19-€24 Pop in for Roast chicken – Wing or Thigh (you choose) – €19 A La Carte about €40 + wine 79 rue de Seine, 6th Metro: Mabillon Open 7/7 Tel: +33 (0)1 42 03 94 59 Breizh Café Paul Bert “Galettes are so French,” says Yukino my Japanese friend. “I first tasted them at Breizh Café, Tokyo – it opened in 1996,” she recalls. “Now there’s lots of them.” We’re seated opposite the spotless steel and tile open kitchen in the just opened Paul Bert Breizh Café and grocery space. (This is a  fabulous foodie village scene, near…
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Lead photo credit : Origines

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By Margaret Kemp

Born in Hampton, Middlesex, UK, Margaret Kemp is a lifestyle journalist, based between London, Paris and the world. Intensive cookery courses at The Cordon Bleu, London, a wedding gift from a very astute ex-husband, gave her the base that would take her travelling (leaving the astute one behind) in search of rare food and wine experiences, such as the vineyards of Thailand, 'gator hunting in South Florida, learning to make eye-watering spicy food in Kerala;pasta making in a tiny Tuscany trattoria. She has contributed to The Guardian, The Financial Times Weekend and FT. How To Spend It.com, The Spectator, Condé Nast Traveller, Food & Travel, and Luxos Magazine. She also advises as consultant to luxury hotels and restaurants. Over the years, Kemp has amassed a faithful following on BonjourParis. If she were a dish she'd be Alain Passard's Millefeuille “Caprice d'Enfant”, as a painting: Manet’s Dejeuner sur l’herbe !

Comments

  • Margaret Kemp
    2019-12-26 08:37:10
    Margaret Kemp
    Dear Ellen, Thanks so much for your valuable input. Happy holidays - delicious and healthy 2020 to you. Best. MK.

    REPLY

  • Ellen A.
    2019-12-20 02:08:56
    Ellen A.
    Thank you for including some affordable finds! All of the restaurants look like great fun.

    REPLY