Lasserre : Miss Kō : Les Ombres &Jeanne B

21 May 2013 by Margaret Kemp    1472  
Margaret Kemp
By Margaret Kemp
Lasserre: Michelin call this 2-star maison “one of the top temples of Parisienne gastronomy. “The décor may be resolutely “of the epoque” but chef Christophe Moret’s revised and corrected classic dishes seem timeless”. To celebrate Spring, “although the cold weather made it very late”, says Moret, Lasserre have created the perfect lunch for the ladies who do. Putting the spotlight on Jérôme Galis, Thierry Riant and Benjamin Chiquet organic French growers and suppliers, Moret presents a vegetarian menu that he says will become a classic. “More and more we have requests for vegetarian dishes and, as I’m from a family of market gardeners, it’s a total pleasure for me to comply”, he says. “We’re even making our own milk tofu”, he adds proudly. Green pea velouté is matched with “tender gnocchi” and small spelt and cédrat are cooked in a casserole enhanced with whatever green shoots are available. Each of the vegetarian dishes can be mix n’ matched with the main menus or ordered as a 3-course lunch or dinner. Talented young pâtissier Claire Heitzler’s desserts include the magnificent Paris-Brest revised and corrected in her style. Interesting themes on raw, cooked, emulsified ingredients that create, “surprising but identifiable flavours in the mouth”. When summer comes I feel like using flowers in everything”, she says. Christophe Moret says that: “Often we have a table of eight, with three generations of a family, so there’s something to suit everyone on the menu”. Let chef-sommelier Antoine Petrus (MOF) suggest bio-dynamic wines to match Lasserre’s menu, sit back and enjoy the opening roof, the quality of the products, the sublime service. 17 avenue Franklin Roosevelt, 8th M: Franklin Roosevelt, T: 01 43 59 53 43 Shut: Tuesday lunch: Wed lunch: Sat lunch: Sun-Mon Lunch menu 80€ A La Carte from 143€ + wine Vegetarian dishes from 40-55€ Miss Kō Order a Spirit of Miss Kō cocktail for Ashton, bubble tea Agar-Agar Mocktail for you, in this psychedelic Starck designed space that once housed Bound & Barfly. Chef Fabrice Monot explains: “I prepare dishes with diverse tastes, mild, intense, aromatic, call it flavour clash!” Homarshu, lobster spring roll with avocado, mango and shiso leaves to dip in sweet chili sauce. Sashizza: tiny Japanese style pizzas topped with sashimi de thon rouge, truffle oil, shiso shoots: Sushi Rock n’Rolls: Tartares, salads: Bo bun Chic for you/Tiger for Ashton or Rossini Kobe Burger with truffle bread and Togarashi chips maison. Yum ! Drink Côtes du Rhone Terra 6840, label designed by Ara Starck. Check out the awesome wall painting by David Rochline: the red dragon, by Label Dalbin, dashing across the multi-tele screens along the 26m “zinc” bar, the furry chairs, the upside down multi-coloured parasols. So who is Miss Kō the magnificent totally tattooed signature face of the maison? She’s who you want her to be. Starring in the theatre that is Miss Kō. Philippe Starck says: “This place is a street out of Blade Runner: a cement parking-garage with Formica chairs, TV screens that spew out hundreds of images of live news coverage from Asia, a kitchen that smokes and smoulders”.  Add the designer’s outsize teapots and you’re at the Madhatter’s Tea Party, with Asian-Fusion attitude. 49 avenue George V 8th M: George V T: 01 55 28 38 28 Average spend about 50€ Open 7/7 12h to 2h Les Ombres You’re in a Woody Allen movie. Glass space designed by Jean Nouvel, outside terrace/lounge with the best view of the Eiffel Tower in town. The food’s a modern gastro- dialogue blending the different cultures showcased by the Musée de Quai Branly which opened in 2006. Young chef (32) Cyril Lenoir, from the Auvergne and a family of cuisiniers, takes inspiration from time spent with Pierre Gagnaire and Eric Frechon, is excited to be directing the kitchens of Les Ombres and Cafe Branly. “I’m the ideal chef for Branly, I’ve worked and travelled all over the place and identify with the exhibitions here which influence my dishes. Although, the clientele want classic French, I put my spin on the food such as raw and baked tomato starter with purple mustard ice cream and spicy crumble”, he adds. Lenoir’s a passionate pâtissier which explains the “sweet sour” aspect of his dishes. Try his salmon cooked in Italian curlpaper, almond and praline sauce: tender as a first kiss. Try the lunch menu at 28-38€ a real test in a restaurant of haute gastronomy. No stinting, portions are generous. You could add a whole perfectly ripe Camembert by Mme Cantin (+12€) and take home whatever’s left. Add a glass or two of Veuve Cliquot (18€) or of Chablis (8€) or the excellent fruity Château Roubine cru classé 2011 (8€). Bread by Jean-Luc Poujauran, rumoured to be re-opening soon, but where? And creamy Cantin butter. Desserts include Chouquette puffs stuffed with praline, almond nougatine and passion fruite juice: Chocolate Tart, Tonk bean ice cream: Fraises des bois-pistaches, sablé breton. Coffee and cannelés outside: you may end up staying for dinner with Woody Allen! 27 Quai Branly, 7th M: Bir-Hakeim Open 7/7 Tea-Time on the terrace from: 14.30-17hrs Bar: 14.30-23h00 Lunch Formula 28-38€ Dinner Menu 65-95€ + A La Carte T: 01 47 53 68 00 Jeanne B In a former funky children’s boutique, Jeanne B has taken a place in the hearts and minds of  Montmartre locals. A mixed crowd of artists, writers, film-makers who’ll be creating a neo-salon on the first floor as soon as the Baby-Foot machine is installed. The space, directed by Sébestien Maréchal, cheffed by Cyril Boulet, is light and bright with an epicerie for take away picnics on the Butte: tables and tables d’hôtes, all excellent for table hopping and making NBF’s. From the blackboard choose: crumble niҫois au chèvre: chunky terrines, both meaty and veggie: carpaccio of vegetables: lasagne de legumes: vegetable or rabbit tourtes: gateau de petits gris (snails). Charcuterie and a hot or cold soup of the day, depending on the weather. For mains: tender Challans chicken “Pates Noires” from the rôtisserie with creamy gratin dauphinoise. Croq Homard de Jeanne: Jarrret de Veau: grosses crevettes de…
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By Margaret Kemp

Born in Hampton, Middlesex, UK, Margaret Kemp is a lifestyle journalist, based between London, Paris and the world. Intensive cookery courses at The Cordon Bleu, London, a wedding gift from a very astute ex-husband, gave her the base that would take her travelling (leaving the astute one behind) in search of rare food and wine experiences, such as the vineyards of Thailand, 'gator hunting in South Florida, learning to make eye-watering spicy food in Kerala;pasta making in a tiny Tuscany trattoria. She has contributed to The Guardian, The Financial Times Weekend and FT. How To Spend It.com, The Spectator, Condé Nast Traveller, Food & Travel, and Luxos Magazine. She also advises as consultant to luxury hotels and restaurants. Over the years, Kemp has amassed a faithful following on BonjourParis. If she were a dish she'd be Alain Passard's Millefeuille “Caprice d'Enfant”, as a painting: Manet’s Dejeuner sur l’herbe !