April Restaurant Buzz: Where to Eat in Paris
“April in Paris, Chestnuts in blossom” (reminds us of the 1952 movie with Doris Day)
“I’m not a complicated girl; she laughed. I just want to run away with you, rob a bank, fall in love, and eat ice creams in Paris.” – Michael Faudet
Le Bristol
After much speculation, Le Bristol has announced the successor to Eric Frechon for the prestigious post of executive chef. It’s Arnaud Faye, (Meilleur Ouvrier de France 2019), previously the executive chef at the Michelin-starred La Chèvre d’Or in Èze Village (French Riviera).
It’s official! A week after Eric Frechon’s last service and during the closing dinner organized by the Oetker family (the hotel owners), the Parisian palace celebrates the arrival of Arnaud Faye (45 years). Starting May 20th, Le Bristol’s new executive chef takes charge of the hotel’s two starred restaurants, Epicure (3 Michelin stars) and 114 Faubourg (1 star), along with the Café Antonia, banquets, room service and ateliers.
Chef Faye, who hails from the Auvergne region, arrives via Antoine Westermann’s Buerehiesel in Strasbourg and Bernard Loiseau’s Relais in Saulieu. He has experience of les grand maisons and even Parisian palaces. At Le Ritz Paris, when he worked alongside chef Michel Roth, the Espadon restaurant earned 2 stars.
He then won 2 ** stars at the Auberge du Jeu de Paume, Chantilly, before heading to the Mediterranean, in Èze, where he won and maintained two stars for eight years.
“Continuing the impressive work of chef Eric Frechon is an honor, bringing my own style to it, the most beautiful adventure,” says Arnaud Faye.
For Luca Allegri, Chairman and CEO of Bristol Paris: “Because he’s aligned with our values, our desires, Arnaud will be able to brilliantly pursue this art of excellence which gives all the charm and spirit of Le Bristol, while bringing a breath of fresh air and a welcome new outlook.”
Good luck, chef.
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Public House Paris
Calum Franklin, dubbed “the pie king,” is a British chef passionate about French gastronomic culture. “Franklin dazzles and dares creating spectacular pies- he’s theKing of Pies,” says chef Jamie Oliver.
As executive chef at the Holborn Dining Room at the Rosewood London, Franklin launched The Pie Room, after having discovered ancient pie moulds in the hotel basement. “These ancient, traditional techniques were falling into oblivion and might even have disappeared if a new generation didn’t pick them up. For me, it became important to learn these techniques, then teach them to all the chefs in my team, so that they’d live on,” explains the chef.
Now you can find him at The Public House, near the Palais Garnier Opera House in Paris. Spread over three floors, the restaurant blends the style of a Parisian brasserie with an English pub. L’Entente Cordial with a capital C.
Franklin’s menu includes comfort food such as the pies he became famous for in London: Lobster Pie for 2 fennel confit (€69), Dauphinoix Potato and vintage cheddar Pie (€19), and desserts such as sticky toffee pudding (€11), apple and ginger trifle (€12). There’s an impressive world wine card. Wash it all down with a glass of Guinness (€8), and why not finish with Cotswolds Cream Liqueur (€12)?
“I’m delighted to have the opportunity to share the British cuisine I love, prepared with the best of French produce,” says Franklin. “Public House is a marriage of these two ingredients. I’ve always dreamed of working in Paris. I’ve been here so many times over the years the city has become my second home. With Public House, I now have that home!” See you there!
DETAILS
21 rue Danou, 2nd
Tel: +33 (0)1 77 37 87 93
Metro: Opéra
Open 7/7
Le Grand Véfour – On the Terrace
A sparkling jewel of 18th-century decorative art, located in the beautiful gardens of the Palais Royal, the Grand Véfour is toujours the gastronomic mecca of political, artistic and literary life in Paris. It has been for 200+ years. Victor Hugo would still recognize his favorite restaurant! Launched in 1784, just in time for the French Revolution, Véfour welcomed Napoleon and Josephine, Colette, Coco Chanel, and Jean Cocteau. Many of the restaurant’s chairs have brass plaques showcasing the rich and famous patrons who once dined and – rumor has it – where Napoleon Bonaparte proposed marriage to Josephine.
From Tuesday-Saturday, the menu semainier (two courses for €56, three for €67 with wine) is a perfect way to discover/rediscover this belle maison. A recent menu sent out a starter chicken terrine, served with lemon, chickpea pickle, and chickpea hummus. Next up: pan fried Scorpion fish (tasting of monkfish and seabass), accompanied by rock fish soup with vegetables. Capped off with a lemon & pomelo tart, meringue and calming melissa. The sommelier will advise on wines. Save space for Grandma’s Gateau de Savoie with the coffee/ infusion!
DETAILS
17 rue de Beaujolais, 1st
Metro: Pyramides
Tel: +33 (0)1 42 96 56 27
Brasserie Thoumieux – Le Brunch Rive Gauche
Thoumieux tells us of their new sparkling all-champagne formula as part of its “left bank” brunch. This experience combines the conviviality of Sunday lunch with the French art of living, all in the sharp setting of Thoumieux Brasserie. Matched with champagne Louis Roederer, this menu highlights Parisian breakfast/brunch favorites such as eggs Benedict and avocado toast. The deliciously decadent housemade dessert buffet is by pastry cheffe Pauline Lehoux.
DETAILS
Roederer Champagne brunch – €120 Classic brunch – €59
79 rue Saint-Dominique, 7th
Tel: +33 (0)1 47 05 79 00
Metro: La Tour Maubourg
La Brasserie Alfred
Alfred is named for Alfred de Musset, the romantic poet, playwright and novelist (1810-1857), who lived next door, at no 6 rue du Mont Thabor. This is a handy addy for Place Vendôme and just behind L’Hotel Meurice. It’s a prime location. The owners are a quartet of twins: brothers Martin and Basile Beaupère, and Théodore and Casimir Mahoudeau, talented young entrepreneurs. The first have already successfully launched the elegant Restaurant Camondo at the eponymous museum, near Parc Monceau. In the kitchen, it’s Paul Vidal and Camille Renouard. The divine décor is by the Necchi Architecture duo Alexis Lamesta and Charlotte Albert.
DETAILS
8, rue du Mont Thabor, 1st
Metro: Concorde
Tel: +33 (0)1 40 26 46 27
Lunch & dinner from Tuesday-Saturday
From €35-€45 + wine
Konvives
This cantine chic is run by chef Maxime (Max) Lellouche with Nicolas Colonna heading the service en salle. Expect a cool culinary adventure, combining bistronomic inspiration and conviviality.
Here are some sample dishes. Pork and poultry pâté en croute, apricot condiment. Sablé parmesan, Jerusalem artichokes. Catch of the day, served with risotto. Filet of Angus Beef, with endive gratinées and hazelnuts. Côte de Boeuf, gratin dauphinoise and irresistible pineapple pavola. A glass of red or white costs €6. Handy for the Piscine Bernard Lafay at No.79 – before or after?
DETAILS
From Tuesday to Saturday, Lunch 12-2 pm and le soir 7-11 pm
Menu déjeuner from €20
Menu Découverte €55
86, rue de la Jonquiere, 17th
Metro: Porte de Clichy,
Tel: +33 (0)6 61 35 92 77
Brion (de la grand cuisinomie)
Chef Geoffrey Lengagne cooked 15+ years with Mathieu Viannay in Lyon, Pierre Gagnaire in London, Thomas Keller in New York, and Jérôme Banctel in Paris. His recently launched address ticks all the boxes for a super cool Parisian neighborhood restaurant right down to the open kitchen and the flaming grill.
A March lunchtime, on the €36 menu, featured marinated endives mixed with a creamy bagna cauda with anchovies, caper leaves, smoked paprika oil and raw green apple. Roast sea bass was drizzled with green curry sauce (made with buttermilk) flamed leeks, oyster mushrooms and argan oil. Dessert was a tribute to springtime in Sicily: cannolo stuffed with Meyer lemon cream and yuzu. Legend has it that cannolo were first made by the concubines of an Arab emir to honor the sexual potency of their master- its phallic form no accident. Wow!
The wine list is a naturalist selection showcasing the Savoie and Jura regions. Look for Savagnin Ouillé signed Rijckaert at €15 a glass, or a La Pente Jacquère from Domaine des Côtes Rousses (€41 a bottle), and note the superb Pommard from Fanny Sabre for special occasions (€128).
DETAILS
Lunch menus €36-49 (3-4 courses) Dinner €69 (4 courses, for the whole table) a vegetarian option is available.
Closed Saturday and Sunday.
17, rue Lamartine, 9th
Metro: Notre-Dame-de-Lorette
Tel: +33 (0)1 40 18 10 93
The French Bastards
Celebrate “Earth Day” on Monday April 22 and launch the first ever “Earth Month” with various eco-responsible actions, vegan treats and anti-waste tips: “we love the environment,” say the bakers behind this cool boulangerie. We love the French Bastards.
Lead photo credit : Café Antonia at Le Bristol Paris
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