Citrus Etoile: Manger & Warwick Terrace

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Citrus Etoile: Manger & Warwick Terrace
Citrus Etoile Chef Gilles Epié holds the record for being the youngest starred chef in France aged 22, nobody understands why Michelin have not awarded him stars for Citrus Etoile. “Go figure”, he shrugs. He owned Miravile, where he created the signature Foie Gras Caramelisé with port, among other dishes, then went to LA where he met his wife Elizabeth while cheffing at L’Orangerie and feeding the likes of Sinatra, Springsteen and Slash. Returning to Paris he was at the left bank La Petite Cour before launching Citrus Etoile, with Elizabeth, in 2005. The décor changes, often displaying work by promising young artists, no flowers on the tables, just goldfish in glass bowls, which you can photograph, but please do not feed. Recently the “American Frenchy” was asked to set up “Frenchy‘s” a beau brasserie at CDG Airport and the concept will be taken worldwide in time. New York Times calls Epié “a true culinary contorsionist”. “Gilles Epié pose ses valises à Paris-Charles de Gaulle dans un endroit qui lui ressemble : accueillant, chaleureux et gourmand”, says critic Gilles Pudlowski. Just taste his dishes and you’ll agree and, when you’re at the airport, be sure to check him out. 6 rue Arsène Houssaye, 8th M: Charles de Gaulle Etoile T: 01 42 89 15 51 Shut Sat-Sun Lunch formula 52€ Menu Découverte 75€ + A La Carte Website Manger Je mange, tu mange, il/elle manges. Remember school? Lucky you were listening to Madame/Monsieur drumming it into your head. Now you can eat your words at “Manger” launched in April, on hip rue Keller, by restaurateur Thierry Monassier, with a unique concept: Solidarity. Monassier decided it was high time young ambitious, unemployed girls and guys (aged from 18-55) got a chance to get into the world of gastronomy. So via Toques & Partage, the association of which Monassier is President, they can train and realise their potential. He’s even created a first-floor room at Manger where they’re taught how restaurants are run. Manger has black and white décor by interior architect Marie Deroudilhe, who’s created the airy glass, steel metal and marble space, an upmarket refectory, with open kitchen. The concept runs in partnership with top chefs who agreed to share their recipes, and who can often be spotted in Manger, “en train de manger”. Dishes are cooked by the trainee chefs  under the watchful eye of Manger’s Executive Chef William Pradeleix, who last worked with Hélène Darroze at The Connaught, London. Dinner is 55€ and 10% goes to Toques & Partage. Dishes included could be Yannick Alléno’s egg casserole with watercress coulis. Pierre Gagnaire’s whiting with greens, Michel Trama’s spiced pigeon with cumin carrots. Divine desserts are displayed under glass, you’ll probably want to start with Christophe Michalak’s Paris-Brest! The chefs work with locavore products garnered within a radius of 50 kilometers around Paris. Genial to have a delicious dinner and feel you’re also helping to give something back. 24 rue Keller 11th M: Bastille/Voltaire T: 01 43 38 69 15 Shut Sun-Mon Lunch 25-34€ + A La Carte Daily Plat du jour “Semainier” 18€ Super-chefs dinner by reservation 55€ Website Warwick Terrace “Le W” The terrace at “Le W” is open, a bucolic garden perched on top of the hotel (get a room, it’s a great location, right opposite the Vuitton Flagship) with fine view of the Eiffel Tower. Chef Dorian Wicart’s menu is fresh, bright and enticing with, say, a starter of Velouté de petits pois or croustillante de langoustines. Mains include Tarte fine de rouget and Entrecote de boeuf sauce béarnaise. Perfect with a glass of Franck Phélan at 12€. Chef’s desserts should not be ignored. Then it’s either get a room or straight out onto the Avenue for some SRT (serious retail therapy). Or both! Hotel Warwick 5 rue de Berri, 8th M: George V T: 01 45 61 82 08 Lunch & Dinner from 29-35€ + A La Carte Shut Sat-Sun Website    
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Born in Hampton, Middlesex, UK, Margaret Kemp is a lifestyle journalist, based between London, Paris and the world. Intensive cookery courses at The Cordon Bleu, London, a wedding gift from a very astute ex-husband, gave her the base that would take her travelling (leaving the astute one behind) in search of rare food and wine experiences, such as the vineyards of Thailand, 'gator hunting in South Florida, learning to make eye-watering spicy food in Kerala;pasta making in a tiny Tuscany trattoria. She has contributed to The Guardian, The Financial Times Weekend and FT. How To Spend It.com, The Spectator, Condé Nast Traveller, Food & Travel, and Luxos Magazine. She also advises as consultant to luxury hotels and restaurants. Over the years, Kemp has amassed a faithful following on BonjourParis. If she were a dish she'd be Alain Passard's Millefeuille “Caprice d'Enfant”, as a painting: Manet’s Dejeuner sur l’herbe !