BUZZ: Neva Say Neva, Bergerac Wines Chez Nolita, Zagat’s 30 Under 30 at the W, Paris C’est Chic & Milliat’s Got a Brand New Juice

22 September 2012 by Margaret Kemp    8167  
BUZZ: Neva Say Neva, Bergerac Wines Chez Nolita, Zagat’s 30 Under 30 at the W, Paris C’est Chic & Milliat’s Got a Brand New Juice
Margaret Kemp
By Margaret Kemp
Exit Europe metro station, you’re on place de l’Europe, look at the intersection of rue de Turin and Moscow, not much has changed in the Batignolles ‘hood since the Caillbottes were there and depicted “Paris on a rainy day” in 1877. Continue onto rue St. Petersbourg and Neva Cuisine, how bright to name it thus. Neva – St. Petersbourg, get it? And the owners are not even Russian! Beatriz Gonzales is from Mexico, via L’Institute Paul Bocuse, Ecully, Alain Senderens and La Grande Cascade. Her partner is Yannick Tranchant, ze very French and aptly named uber-patissier. They bonded while working with Fréderic Robert at Grande Cascade, decided to set up on their own account fifteen months ago. Go to this site and prepare to be amazed. Neva, neo-bistro-gourmand, is located across from the Tri-Postal sorting office, so, if you’ve go letters home to post save them ’til you get there. Neva’s elegant: high ceilings, pillers, mirrors, art-work, zinc bar, tables well spaced, hip young staff. A freebie starter of warm foccaccia offsets a dish of al dente organic beetroot, a froth of whipped broth, ravioli and ginger. Chef loves legumes, is mad about fruits, her dishes sprout them, they look happy to be lightly placed on the white china. There’s a nod and a wink to molecular, subtle, never in yer face. Mains boldly go with plump golden Ris de Veau crousti-fondant, artichauts faҫon barigoule, jus de viande (see photo). A thick tranche of merlan (whiting) is “en escabèche” (read marinated) matched with a déclinasion of gently sweated onions and granny smith apple. By the glass take the 2009 Loi Domaine Saladin (7€) for the sweetbreads and white 2010 Chablis “Vielles Vignes” avec the fish (6€). Ignore cheese, order all Tranchants, tranchant to the point, award winning afters. La sphère déstructurée chocolat Samana pur origine, ananas confit aux épices douces inside. Wild ! Fruity numbers include La fraise comme un vacherin, coco et citron vert.  You’ll need a flute of Bugey Cerdon (8€) coffee, a freebie pannacotta, then off out into Paris in the rain – bet you don’t even notice the weather. Neva Cuisine,2, rue de Berne, 8thMetro: Europe,T: 01 45 22 18 91Menus: 29€50 -37€A La Carte average about 55€Shut Saturday lunch & SundayNo site. See “Paris on a Rainy Day” at Musée d’Orsay. Do you know the site Do it in Paris? Created by super-stylist Véronique Constantinoff it’s a great go-to guide for all that’s hip and chic in the city, from and by les vrai chic paris chicks. Now, you need to pick up the book, “the best of” Paris C’est Chic”. With in-put by Elodie Rouge and Quitterie Pasquesoone, ironic illustrations by Angeline Mélin and translations by Paris editor Mary Deschamps. Now, when those annoying messages arrive asking for the best spa/bar /bistro/vintage/gallery in a flick of the page you’ll have the answer. Give it for Christmas, then you’ll be rid of them for ever! Voila, c’est chic! Paris C’est ChicEditions Parigramme,13.90€ “We transformed our hobby into big business”, said Tim & Nina Zagat, the Nina and Frederic of restaurant surveys, recently acquired by Google. The two lawyers who do everything together, were in Paris this week to present 30 under 30. Thirty extraordinary culinary talents, “the future”, said the Zagats in unison (see photo). At a sparkling champagne drenched evening the W hotel bar was buzzing with the likes of Beatriz Gonzalez (see above). David Rougier, sommelier @Akrame: Violette Sart, Chef Pàtissier at Semilla, Romain Tishenko from Le Galopin, Kevin Quinsenc, sommelier La Maison Blanche. Saturne’s Sven Chartier, Cantine California’s Jordan Feilders, Arthur Combe, Cocktail Master at Curio Parlour, James Henry, Au Passage etc. Do join Tim & Nina with your comments. “ We need them, good or bad, contact us.  We’ll be so happy to hear from you”, they said. See the Apps and look on Google Search, Map and Google +Guide 10€99 available at Drug Store Champs Elysées etc.Join the surveys. NoLita Motor Village, what a cool place to take Ashton, on the cusp of the Champs Elyséees, across from Lancel, near the Adidas flagship, the new Banana Republic. He’ll feel so guilty about his lengthy lascivious visit to Motor Village, the Jean Michel Wilmotte designed tribute to all that’s glorious in the Italian Motor Industry, he’ll whisk you up to Nolita, the trat on the second floor, where ex-Ducasse talent Victor Beltramelli is waiting to cooka a leetle something delicious. Last week Beltramelli was joined by the winemakers of the Bergerac who came to town with their Rouges Passion Côtes de Bergeracs. All perfect for sipping while celebrating the centenary of Alfa Romeo, the classy chassis of Ferraris, Maseratis and Fiats. Wine-maker Humphrey Temperley is a passionate vigneron. “I tasted Chàteau Lestevenie, loved it so much I bought the vineyard four years’ ago”, he admits. Find him on this site and find his confreres on site. At Motor Village the world of design, performance, technology, food and wine come together. You are what you eat, but you’re also what you drive darling …. va-voom! NoLita1 avenue Matignon, 8thM: Franklin D Roosevelt,T: 01 53 75 78 78Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner 7/7Sunday Brunch 11.30-16h. Need to know: rhubarbe, rhubarbe, rhubarbe….. If you like rhubarbe you’ll love Alain Milliat’s incredible new juice. “It’s my nectar for la rentrée, the rhubarbe’s grown in Picardie, it makes a delicious straight drink, especially with brunch. Try it as a base for cocktails or add, for its’ acidic flavour, to your desserts”, he suggests. It also celebrates the 160th anniversary…
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By Margaret Kemp

Born in Hampton, Middlesex, UK, Margaret Kemp is a lifestyle journalist, based between London, Paris and the world. Intensive cookery courses at The Cordon Bleu, London, a wedding gift from a very astute ex-husband, gave her the base that would take her travelling (leaving the astute one behind) in search of rare food and wine experiences, such as the vineyards of Thailand, 'gator hunting in South Florida, learning to make eye-watering spicy food in Kerala;pasta making in a tiny Tuscany trattoria. She has contributed to The Guardian, The Financial Times Weekend and FT. How To Spend It.com, The Spectator, Condé Nast Traveller, Food & Travel, and Luxos Magazine. She also advises as consultant to luxury hotels and restaurants. Over the years, Kemp has amassed a faithful following on BonjourParis. If she were a dish she'd be Alain Passard's Millefeuille “Caprice d'Enfant”, as a painting: Manet’s Dejeuner sur l’herbe !