My old friend and colleague Paga, who comes up with theories that are usually correct (except for his solution to the Middle East crisis that involved putting a tennis bubble with air-conditioning over the whole region) called me breathlessly to tell me a new theory. This was that he and I and members of the food fanatical eGullet Society of Culinary Arts and Letters were wrong in advising occasional visitors to Paris to frequent “new finds” such as Spring or relatively recent places such as Ze Kitchen Galerie; that instead, what they wanted was to go back to the “Golden-Oldies” like l’Ami Louis and Bofinger.
A visit to Le Reveil du 10e, convinced me that he was correct. Why? Well, it’s jammed full of Parisians, most of whom were smoking, who ranged from tie and suit-wearing business-types to guys in paint-stained jeans. The wait-folk look like they’re straight out of a Marcel Pagnol movie – decked out as they are in suspenders and woolen caps. And the food, the food is straight from the 1930’s too; a huge coquelet, confit de canard, veal kidneys, platters of cold cold cuts and cheeses, ten classic desserts, pots of Lyonnais wines including every Beaujolais known, and on and on.
While located in a strange area – from the Chateau d’Eau Metro station, temporarily closed for an upgrade, one walks by mostly African hair salons and wig stores, then shmatas stores, then wholesale shops ‘til one reaches what one imagines the “Belle Aurore” was in Casablanca. The moment you enter you’re in La France Profond. Just imagine: just a bit under 50 covers, all puffing on Gauloises or their mortal equivalent,
This is one place where the décor and setting and clientele outweigh the food. Oh it’s not bad; I had the “artisanal” escargots (standard) which were not as good (or salty) as my local guy makes them; then the blanquette de veau, again not as good as at Mori Venice Bar and needing the mustard they routinely put in front of you but OK; finishing with the milk custard.
My favorites this week:
Le Reveil du 10e
33, rue Chateau d’Eau, 10th (Metro: Chateau d’Eau)
T : 01.42.41.77.59
Closed Sundays
A la carte from 20-40 €
Mori Venice Bar
2, rue du 4 Septembre, 2nd (Metro: Bourse)
T : 01.44.55.51.55
Closed Saturday lunch and Sundays
A la carte 40-60 €
©2007 John A. Talbott
My old friend and colleague Paga, who comes up with theories that are usually correct (except for his solution to the Middle East crisis that involved putting a tennis bubble with air-conditioning over the whole region) called me breathlessly to tell me a new theory. This was that he and I and members of the food fanatical eGullet Society of Culinary Arts and Letters were wrong in advising occasional visitors to Paris to frequent “new finds” such as Spring or relatively recent places such as Ze Kitchen Galerie; that instead, what they wanted was to go back to the “Golden-Oldies” like l’Ami Louis and Bofinger.
A visit to Le Reveil du 10e, convinced me that he was correct. Why? Well, it’s jammed full of Parisians, most of whom were smoking, who ranged from tie and suit-wearing business-types to guys in paint-stained jeans. The wait-folk look like they’re straight out of a Marcel Pagnol movie – decked out as they are in suspenders and woolen caps. And the food, the food is straight from the 1930’s too; a huge coquelet, confit de canard, veal kidneys, platters of cold cold cuts and cheeses, ten classic desserts, pots of Lyonnais wines including every Beaujolais known, and on and on.
While located in a strange area – from the Chateau d’Eau Metro station, temporarily closed for an upgrade, one walks by mostly African hair salons and wig stores, then shmatas stores, then wholesale shops ‘til one reaches what one imagines the “Belle Aurore” was in Casablanca. The moment you enter you’re in La France Profond. Just imagine: just a bit under 50 covers, all puffing on Gauloises or their mortal equivalent,
This is one place where the décor and setting and clientele outweigh the food. Oh it’s not bad; I had the “artisanal” escargots (standard) which were not as good (or salty) as my local guy makes them; then the blanquette de veau, again not as good as at Mori Venice Bar and needing the mustard they routinely put in front of you but OK; finishing with the milk custard.
My favorites this week:
Le Reveil du 10e
33, rue Chateau d’Eau, 10th (Metro: Chateau d’Eau)
T : 01.42.41.77.59
Closed Sundays
A la carte from 20-40 €
Mori Venice Bar
2, rue du 4 Septembre, 2nd (Metro: Bourse)
T : 01.44.55.51.55
Closed Saturday lunch and Sundays
A la carte 40-60 €
©2007 John A. Talbott
