What it Takes to Write Food Criticism Well

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I’ve been observing food/restaurant criticism since the days of Craig Claiborne and Gael Greene in New York a long time ago. Since then I’ve watched and known a lot of such experts and have come up with some thoughts. I think most of us (experienced) folk would see critics as grouped in several categories: Reporters; these are the folk who give you Joe Friday type “just the facts” stuff; neighborhood, décor, welcome, menu, dishes, cost and (in the case of the Michelin boys) the bathrooms. You get the facts, sure, but how was the food?   Comparison shoppers: these are the rare writers who are willing to say that when one judges 5 Basque or couscous or brasserie places, this is their ranking. The New York Magazine was willing to do that with pastrami restos and Figaro with eggs mayo, but individual critics don’t stick their necks out so. Journalists: these are the guys and gals who write food reviews like philosophic essays, using 15th century/10 € words and try to dazzle you with their erudition: the problem is you’re not really sure if limpid and natural and honest are complements or dings. Each of these has something to offer but none is completely trustworthy and informative for my needs. So here are my rules for how one does good food criticism. First, have good genes, the sort of genes that promote the love of writing, words and sounds. Second, grow up in a book-acquiring, reading-oriented, library-affiliated family. Third, it helps to have had some cooking experience and lots of varied eating experiences. Fourth, it’s essential to be disciplined and write regularly; it is legendary that George Bernard Shaw sat down every morning and filled a set number of pages of foolscap before proceding to with his day. Fifth, it takes practice, lots of practice and revisions and rejections. My model in this was my father who in the pre-computer days, would write, tear up, edit and rewrite draft after draft of everything he wrote until he was satisfied; and then send it to the professional editor who took over and repeated the process. Sixth, one must be able to encapsulate something is a 20 second sound bite, 1 paragraph summary, 10 page description or 350 page manuscript. Seventh, one must read a lot. Eighth, one must eat a lot. Ninth, one must write a lot. And finally, one must be thinking about writing all the time. These thoughts were prompted by my thoughts at: Memere Paulette 3, rue Paul Lelong, 2nd, (Metro: Sentier) T: 01.40.26.12.36 Closed Saturday, Sunday and Monday. Menu: 2 courses for 15 and 3 for 17 €   Au Gout Dujour 12, rue Beaugrenelle, 15th (Metro: Charles Michels) T: 01.45.71.68.36 Closed Sundays Lunch menu 20 and menu-carte 25 €.  Blog: John Talbott’s Paris ©by John Talbott 2008 ————– Zagat Paris Restaurants 2008/09 (Zagatsurvey) Paris Restaurants (English) covers over 1000 restaurants in Paris and the surrounding locales. This handy guide contains Zagat Surveys trusted ratings and reviews for area restaurants based on the opinions of diners like you. The trademark reviews and corresponding ratings are organized alphabetically in a user friendly format. Use the indexes arranged by cuisine neighborhood and special features like In Places Winning Wine Lists or Romantic Places to find the perfect restaurant for any occasion. Also includes stick on bookmarks.
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