The Alps and Haute Savoie

The huge region of the Alps and the Rhone valley is divided into smaller divisions. The section south of Lake Leman and east to the Italian frontier benefits from the melting snow of the Alps and seasonal changes. It is greener in summer and whiter in winter than any other part of the country. It started as a transalpine independent duchy with capitals on either side of the mountains. In 1860, when Italy was busy unifying the independent states under Victor Emmanuel, the western side around Chambery voted to join France. This made skiing, mountain climbing, biking, paragliding, golfing, and inland fresh water sailing more readily available, and the area flourished.   In winter, the French Alps offer some of the best skiing in Europe at Courchevel, Albertville, Chamonix, and Megève. In summer, the cities of Aix-Les-Bains and Annecy attract countless pleasure seekers, as they are two of the prettiest places in the area and located next to fresh water lakes. Add water sports to this region and “voila:” the perfect place for a holiday.   Just north of Chambery, on the east side of Lac Le Bourget, lies Aix-Les-Bains, so named for the soothing healing waters and the spas that have attracted Royalty, the rich and famous, and, more recently, the less wealthy travelers. The Thermes Nationaux, with its healing waters, offer relief for those with osteo-arthritis and have attracted such names as Balzac, Verlaine, Sarah Bernhardt, Jean Moulin, Saint-Saens, and Rachmaninof. They attracted Queen Victoria, too, who came for the waters and the climate. Great entertainers also came here to entertain, like Mistinguett, Yves Montand, Maurice Chevalier, and Edith Piaf. Even now, in May and June, the city has free concerts in hotels and parks or on the city’s bandstands. Classical music draws people from all over France. People come here to play golf or just to walk along the water of Lac Le Bourget. There is, in fact, a walkway through the trees along the water that still reminds one of ladies in fashionable dresses carrying parasols under the trees. And, across the lake, the gigantic peaks of La Dent du Chat, casts an evening shadow on this vibrant town of 26,000 people.   There are about one hundred hotels on over forty-four square meters of fresh water. Add to all this, bridge tournaments, operettas, a gambling casino, racetrack, and aquarium and you have the perfect holiday site. I even saw men playing chess in the main square with life-sized pieces while a crowd watched in knowing silence.   While there is a Belle Epoque Hotel across from the tourist office and on the main square named after Queen Victoria, I chose the less elegant homier Hotel La Pastorale, owned by the affable Davat family, facing the boat harbor. This Hotel (Relais de Silence) is shaped like a pyramid and set in a lush garden. I had some of the best Savoyard meals and wine in their lovely dining room and outdoor terrace. With walls covered with art, this family-run hotel is the “find” of Aix. I’ve gone back often just to visit these capable innkeepers.   There are synagogues, churches, parks, upscale shops, restaurants, and vistas. There’s peace here in Aix. From the top of Mt. Revard (1,550 meters) you can see Mont Blanc. Don’t miss it.   A short drive or train ride north brings you to lovely Annecy. I could move there tomorrow. It’s a perfect holiday spot for the Swiss, who come here in all seasons. Annecy is an exciting place. The old city was built around the Thiou Canal from sparkling Lake Annecy. Rebuilt after the 1944 bombardment, in the shadow, the ancient Chateau d’Annecy and the warren of narrow streets and arcades on either sides of the canal offer restaurants, souvenir shops, clothiers, and sellers of everything from art to candy. Walk along rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau or rue Saint-Claire bordered by arcades and in sight of the bell turret and clock on the Saint-Claire gate, part of the old city’s defense system.   The most famous monument is the triangular-shaped building in the middle of the canal. It reminds one of the bow of a ship. Once a Governor’s residence and later a prison, it is now an exhibition hall. It’s a little touristy but fun, especially on a warm evening. From here you can take a tour boat across to the town of Talloire, where I usually stay. It’s quieter, close by, and high above the lake in an area of rhododendrons, ferns, and maple trees. Here I tasted fresh water pike and perch and some of the best sausage made with herbs and spices.   The new part of the city built around the beach is modern and bustling. Here, one can find the modern tourist office, which arranges excursions on the lake or to land destinations, such as nearby museums or places as far away as Chamonix, Mt. Blanc (4807 meters), and the Mer de Glace visible from below Mt. Blanc. From here, you can take a tunnel into Italy. But, get a glimpse of the needles, Les Aiguilles. There is no finer alpine picture than these craggy snow covered mountains.   With it’s Alpine flavor, Chamonix and the mountain villages of Megève, Albertville, and Courchevel also are exciting places to visit, best in winter for skiing but welcoming, too, during the summer months. All of these places offer exotic hotels, charming restaurants, bars, and Savoyard curios. There are even cyber cafes here now.   If you are returning via Geneva, save time to visit Yvoire on Lake Leman. Yvoire is a walled fishing port guarded by a massive 14th century castle. In summer, you will be impressed by the flowers. Lake Leman boasts many upscale towns like Thonon-les Bains and Evian-Les-Bains. The town is famous for its bottled water, and it has much to offer for sophisticated travelers. From here you can take a ferry into Switzerland, but, if I had the choice, I’d turn south again and revisit Annecy or Aix-les-Bains. There are trains to take you back to Paris or planes…