Nature in Paris

  Need some fresh air? Paris’s many parks and gardens offer a wide range of places to picnic with a view, or just relax in leafy surroundings. Quite apart from this, there is a plethora of ways to experience a vast array of flora and fauna; whether it be kestrel-watching on the towers of Nôtre Dame, a stroll through the open-air museum at Tino-Rossi, or a visit to the amazing Jardin des Plantes. In fact, there is an awful lot going on; it’s just a matter of knowing where to find it (thus, read on.) If however, Paris is still too confining and you really need to escape, the “Region Parisienne” offers open space on a grand scale and a variety of open air activities to cater for all. With the stunning Vallée de Chevreuse, lush valleys of the Essonne (dubbed the “secret garden of the Ile de France”) and the “lungs of Paris” that flank the East and West—the Bois de Boulogne and Bois de Vincennes—you really are spoiled for choice… There are over 400 parks to choose from in Paris, offering everything from formal gardens (Jardin du Luxembourg, 5e,Tuileries, 1er) to wild and wanton foliage (Parc des Buttes-Chaumont, 19e; Parc de Monceau, 8e). For a comprehensive guide, the ‘Visites Guidées, Paris-jardins’ brochure produced by the Mairie de Paris is well worth checking out. It contains information on a wide range of tours to all the major parks, as well as to secret corners and interesting gardens that may not always be open to the public. For example, visit a non-allergic garden, or take a walk through rustic streets to see the 1930’s splendour of square René-le-Gall and its luxuriant vegetation. (Brochure available from any tourist office or you can download it here. In French only. Price of tours, 6/3 €.) Botanical gardensThe Jardin des Plantes is a 24-hectare botanical garden extravaganza with tropical greenhouses, an alpine garden (admission free) and the Ecole de Botanique. Part of the Musée Nationale de l’Histoire Naturelle, it was founded in 1626 as a medicinal herb garden. Opening times and prices vary. (M° Jussieu; RER Gare d’Austerlitz ; address: 36 rue Geoffroy Saint-Hilaire. For more info call 01.40.79.30.00 or visit www.museums-of-paris.com.) Le Jardin et les Serres d’Auteuil—see Bois de Boulogne below Bois de VincennesThis 995-hectare English-style park has a zoo, a ‘Parc Floral’ with a butterfly and tropical garden (home to the largest collection of irises in Paris). And of course there is the Château de Vincennes with its moat, dungeon and ritzy interiors. The grounds are free. (M° Porte Dorée, tel 01.55.94.20.20 for the Parc Floral, 01.48.08.31.20 for the Château, or see www.parcfloraldeparis.com or www.boisdevincennes.com) Bois du BoulogneOne of Baron Haussmann’s many creations, with a bone fide forest and several enclosed gardens: the Parc de Bagatelle (complete with chateau),the Pré Catalin (Catalin meadow) containing the Jardin Shakespeare, and a collection of rare succulents and other tropical plants in the old glass conservatories of the Botanical garden (altogether the ‘Jardin et les Serres d’Auteuil’). (M° Porte Maillot, tel 01.40.67.97.00 for the Chateau de Bagatelle or 01.40.71.75.23 for the Jardin des Serres d’Auteuil or see www.paris.fr) Institut Océanographique and MuseumThe nearest thing you’ll get to the sea, (apart from the Paris plage, of course), the Institute of Oceanography offers an impressive specialist library open to the public and regularly hosts painting and photography exhibitions. The museum, next door, is brightly coloured and imaginative, with an aquarium full of squidgy, slimy creatures to delight kids both big and small. Workshops are also proposed (in French) and English language tours are available on request. (M° Monge; RER Luxembourg; 195, rue Saint-Jacques. Prices 4.6/3/2 €. Open Tues-Fri 10h-12h30 and 13h30-17h30. Museum open 10h-17h30 on weekends except 4 weekends in August. Institute closed all weekends in 2004.) Outside Paris The Ile de France bears testimony to the richness and diversity of the French countryside and, despite its proximity to a major city, the delights for nature lovers are abundant. What follows is just a selection. BirdsSurprising as it may seem, there are many opportunities to see a variety of feathered city-dwellers in Paris itself. Tawny owls, greater spotted woodpeckers, redstarts, nuthatches, jays, warblers, as well as the more common species, can all be seen in parks and gardens. Among the best places to go is the Reserve de St-Quentin en Yvelines, situated on one of the last remaining marshlands of the Ile de France. Equally as rich in plant and animal life; with a number of artificial lakes home to avocets, tufted ducks and other divers, the reserve aims to protect threatened or unusual species and natural heritage. Access by registration only, except for open days, which occur 30/40 times a year. (Prices 7/5 €, family pass 20 €. Phone 01.30.16.44.40 or see www.aileconcept.com.) GallyA 1000-year-old farm, a “Cuillette” (plantation) and 5 garden centres, Gally offers a multitude of hands-on nature experience at different locations around Paris. The open farm gives workshops for kids on animal-rearing, breadmaking, apple-pressing etc. The emphasis throughout is on natural methods of cultivation and harvesting is strictly according to seasons. There is also a flower garden and a maze, and seasonal home-made/grown produce can be bought at the farm shop. (Ferme Ouverte: Route de Bailly, 78210 Saint-Cyr l’Ecole, tel 01.30.14.60.60 to reserve. La Cuiellette, Route de Bailly à Saint-Cyr, 78870 Bailly, tel 01.39.63.30.90 to reserve. www.gally.com) The Nature and Discovery programmeFor outings all over the Ile de France, as well as free conferences, see the Nature et Découvertes programme at www.natureetdecouvertes.com, or pick up a brochure at one of their shops (there is one in the Carrousel du Louvre). All sorts of activities are offered, from making perfume to wine-tasting, walks, park visits and astronomy. This year the foundation celebrates its 10th anniversary, so some of the outings are free. (Prices vary, and you can register in one of their shops, or write to NATURE ET DECOUVERTES, Activités Nature, 1 avenue de l’Europe, 78117 Toussus-le-Noble.) Forthcoming events Vivez Nature Paris: 13th -17th May, 23rd-27th Sept. A food fair dedicated to organic foods, natural products and the environment. M° Porte de la Villette; price 3 €, under 12s go free.