Hot Quarters 8th and 20th

The 8th and 20th both are remarkable arrondissements but for completely different reasons, although the bottom line concerning food is that unless you’ve got bucks to burn (at least in the 8th, faggetabouid.) The 8th, home to the Palace Hotels,  Arc de Triomphe and Champs-Elysees is probably the #1 destination for American tourists.  The biggest blockbuster art shows in town are at the Grand Palais, the Petit Palais, just recently renovated, is home to a wonderful permanent collection and the little museum jewels, the Nissim de Camondo and Jacquemart Andre are located deep in the heart of the area. As for walking, I guess at 3 in the morning, going down the Champs is fun, but at other times it seems more like an outside Grand Central Station.  No, instead, head out to the Parc Monceau, watch the rich kids cavort after school and luxuriate on a bench or take a tour of the Park, water, grass and nooks. But food is our focus here so let’s get it out of the way.  Since everyone reading this has been or will go to the starred places run by the big boys at the great Palace Hotels – eg Ducasse at Alain Ducasse at the Plaza Athenee, Legendre at Le Cinq at the George V, Frechon at Le Bristol at the Bristol and Piege at Les Ambassadeurs at the Crillon – there’s not much to be said, except that regardless of who’s cooking, these places will always be near perfection.   Also, one cannot really go wrong at Taillevent, Apicius, Lasserre, Laurent & Pierre Gagnaire no matter when  or who’s in the cuisine.  But that’s not what makes for a “new hot quarter” in the Wall Street Journal’s definition. No, they’d be interested in folks taking over more humble spaces and going wonderful things.  For example, multi-starred Bernard Loiseau started his tante phenomenon with Tante Louise in the 8th, Catherine Guerraz, for years served up topnotch food at Chez Catherine, cheek to jowl next to Galeries Lafayette before decamping for a bigger bucks and bigger time locale, Flora Mikula moved from her left bank Les Olivades to the 8th, Dominique Bouchet left the Crillon after thirteen years for his eponymous place, the estimable Prunier reinvented itself as a Seafood Bar and Alain Senderens, who breathed new life into Lucas Carton years ago, surprised the world by giving up his stars and establishing a 7/7 reasonably priced re-invention.     Now though, turning to the 20th, things look quite different.  For an area that most of my younger French friends look to for relatively more reasonably priced housing, we’re in a different world.  Palace hotels – bah, greats rests – I don’t think so, walks and sights – not a lot. No this is a place to live not visit.  And I know since I used to camp out here when a bit younger.  And, as well, I used to visit Jim Morrison’s grave in Pere Lachaise every few months for the second-hand marijuana smoke if nothing else.  Plus there’s Belleville, which while lacking in great Asian restos (at the level of San Francisco or Hong Kong, for instance) does have nice Asian produce and product. But for a “new hot (gastronomic) quarter,” I’m sorry.  Yes, for a short while there were a few places, such as the Zephyr, that gave one hope, but only with the arrival of Le Baratin and La Boulangerie did solid modernity arrive. My favorities among the new places in the 8th and 20th: Senderens 9 place de la Madeleine, 8th (Metro : Madeleine) T : 01 42 65 22 90 Open lunch and dinner everyday A la carte from 80-100 €. Dominique Bouchet 11 rue Treilhard, 8th (Metro : St Augustin or Miromesnil) T : 01 45 61 09 46 Closed weekends A la carte about 60 € Le Baratin 3, rue Jouye Rouve, 20th, (Metro : Jourdain) T : 01.43.49.39.70 Closed Saturday lunch, Sunday and Monday A la carte from 28-32 €. La Boulangerie 15, rue des Panoyaux, 20th, (Metro: Menilmontant) T: 01.43.58.45.45 Closed Saturday noon, Sundays, lunch in August and other major holidays. Menus: 16 €, 18.50 € (dinner), a la carte 30-35 €. ©2006 John A. Talbot