Hautefort in the Perigord

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Hautefort in the Perigord
When I thought of the Perigord and its 1001 chateaux, I was drawn to this special place. You can get some insight into the Castle at Hautefort if you read by book “A Man of Taste” on this site. It was the perfect setting for a mystery, and since a Hollywood movie was set here and mention was made of Da Vinci having a tentative connection with Hautefort, I set my book here. Now I was visiting the chateau of my dreams for the first time. It was everything I thought it would be and more. I approached from the Dorgogne in the south and there it was, high on a hilltop as if floating like a dream. The cluster of houses jutting from the walls seemed peaceful and filled with history. I drove around the chateau and admired, not only its position commanding a view of the verdant valley but its solidity, its magnificence and style. I am not new to French Chateaux but this was different. I could see why it would have been established as a defense location by the Romans. In the 12th century it was the subject of a dispute concerning the succession of Henry II, the Plantagenet King of England. By the 16th century the fortress underwent modifications during the religious wars, and then in the 17th century the Marquis de Hautefort commissioned the construction of a stately home in honor of his sister Marie along the lines of the chateaux being built along the Loire at that time. But Hautefort became the epitome of chateaux. The furniture, the design and the surroundings with terraced gardens, all these made it one of the finest in France. Over the years Hautefort has been added to, altered and beautified. Between two main towers, a terrace was set up with a view to the south. Below, the French gardens offer a feast for the eye with beds and box trees sculptured in geometrical forms. These were shaped by sheep-shearing scissors called ‘forces’ (strength), and these shears became part of the coat of arms of the Hautefort family.       Within, there is an impressive corridor and a huge stairway. The chimney room is from the original building and the apartments and entrance hall display blue and gold canopied beds and well-appointed rooms with wonderful views. There are 16th century polychrome enameled plaques portraying Catherine de Medici and Henry III, as well as his and hers bedrooms in teal blue or red, a drawing room, study and additional lady’s boudoir.  Beyond the tearoom there is a hidden passage that allows you to visit rooms on the ground floor. There you will see a magnificent dining room fit for royalty with an enormous fireplace at one end. There is a guest room, beautifully furnished, and a tapestry room where Queen Marie-Therese’s portrait hangs.  Here too there are 17th century tapestries from Brussels depicting Antony and Cleopatra. Across the courtyard you can enter the round chapel with a beautiful copula painted in trompe l’oeil that appears like a coffered dome. The center is crowned with a trinity symbol against a gold background. The altar is 19th century and the mosaic floor is typically Perigordian. Here the style is called “pise”. The chateau was reborn after a fire and nobody would have believed that this once great residence-fortress could be rebuilt after it had been reduced to nothing more than the image of a ruin from the village below. This was the second time it had to be restored. In 1929, it was purchased by the Baron and Baroness de Bastard.  They had intended to restore it, but the depression in 1930 put a stop to their plans. In 1968, Hautefort was again reduced to a blackened ruin. It was then that it started its new life. What is seen now was rebuilt after a fundraising campaign that collected over 2 million francs. A national symbol would be rebuilt. Hautefort became a symbol of the shift in opinion in France to rebuild her treasures. The interior was refurbished by the Baroness, who died in 1999. The chateau was endowed to a foundation established to preserve it.  The foundation now employs a group of people who maintain the chateau and the grounds. Now, Hautefort is a welcoming magnet with almost 75,000 visitors a year. The country’s heritage has been passed down to the people. In a vaulted cellar there is a boutique where visitors can purchase souvenirs related to the chateau’s history and gardens. I was encouraged by the staff to photograph the interior, the magnificent gardens and Baroness de Bastard’s gushing fountain that is her symbol of a dream. I wandered around the chateau totally alone with my wife. “Enter at will,” the administrator Monique Folio said. “Take any pictures you like.” I felt honored. Hopefully my article and book will bring more visitors to this wonderful dream-like place. They are not open at all in December and January but will greet you at different times during the year. Call ahead for exact times. Or consult their website. You may select Hautefort as a place to hold a wedding. The chapel is perfect, the dining room sumptuous and the courtyard perfect for a banquet under the stars. Tel: 05 53 50 51 23 or 06 75 63 38 14 www.best-of-perigord.tm.fr www.chateau-hautefort.com Other places to visit in the area: …
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