BUZZ Best of 2011 by Margaret Kemp

31 December 2011 by BP Editor    959  
BUZZ Best of 2011 by Margaret Kemp
“Best of 2011” BUZZ by Margaret Kemp Margaret Kemp is a Cordon Bleu graduate who spent a year traveling the world, working and watching in the kitchens of top chefs from Sydney, Australia via Bangkok, Hong Kong, California, New York and France. Her Sunday columns for BonjourParis premium members include the latest European trends, interviews with internationally acclaimed top chefs, and reviews of restaurants, hotels and hot spots. Please click on her name to see her weekly stories dating back to 2003 . . . et merci, Margaret.     Margaret covers top chefs around the globe, but your favorite stories this year were about beautiful new openings and classic favorites celebrating milestones in Paris. From the Golden Triangle to Opéra to the Paris 16th to the Left Bank, here are your Top 3 Readers’ Favorites for 2011 by Margaret Kemp for BUZZ. Readers’ Favorite #3 BUZZ: Le Banke, Kayser, Prunier & Table d’Exception at Fête de la Gastronomie   Le Banke Hotel, Paris 9th Hôtel Le Banke launched in 2009, a magnificent “Eiffel style” Belle Epoque building that formerly housed the CCF bank. The exciting and eclectic interior design, avant-garde and antique, by architects Paul Fresse and Cassien Bernard is worth the detour. A mix of styles, colours and lots of space will really turn you on. Force yourself out of Galeries Lafayette and swing by Lola, the circular bling bar serving cocktails and tapas, then discover Josefin, the Mediterranean-style brasserie with dishes created by chef George Pierre (ex-Robuchon, Maison Blanche). On the menu, starters include Carpaccio de homard + algues. Raviolis de cabillaud farcis de gambas de palamos + vinaigrette de tomate basilic. Oeuf cassé + jambon bellota + huile de truffe blanche. There are Iberian influences in the dishes, so choose a Spanish wine Finca la Estacada 2009 (30€) or the robust red Miranda, Crianza, Rioja, 2005 (35€). For mains: Riz crémeux aux cèpes + huile de truffe blanche. Noix de Saint-Jacques + citron vert + pak choy + émulsion au lime (see photo) or Onglet de boeuf Wagyu aux échalotes, poêlée de légumes faҫon ratatouille gratinée. The pâtissier was head-hunted from the Ritz, so save space for desserts: Millefeuille tradition + glace vanille. Crème Catalane + tuile Canelle + biscuit à l’Orange; La Pêche faҫon Melba, served in a tall glass and Tartelette aux fraises. The contemporary space buzzes with a hip young crowd and couples who don’t seem in a hurry to leave. The Banke project is by Jordi Clos, director of Derby Hotels Collection, with exciting addresses in Barcelona, Madrid, London, and now Paris. 94 rooms and suites, with spectacular bathrooms, views over the Sacré-Coeur. Eclectic art everywhere, Jordi Clos is a big collector and expert Egyptologist. What a great place to hang your sombrero. With the world economy in crisis the banque did well to transform itself into a fantasy hotel—check in and forget everything. Click to continue reading.   Readers’ Favorite #2 Les Tablettes de Jean-Louis Nomicos Buzz   Les Tablettes de Jean-Louis Nomicos There’s a buzz around avenue Bugeaud, just off Place Victor Hugo, where Chef Jean-Louis Nomicos just opened Les Tablettes. He came from Lasserre (Christophe Moret’s taken over now) and follows Joel Robuchon, now aux Champs Élysées, at Le Drugstore. The aura’s silver. Anne-Cecile Comar has created a sleek metallic cocoon; mirrors at each end give depth. The tables are spaced, but there’s plenty of table hopping—New York City comes to the 16th arrondissement. Nomicos, who lives in the Auteuil district of the 16th, says he loves this part of Paris, but agrees that every district has something to offer. For Nomicos, Tablettes is a dream come true. “I could have stayed at Lasserre forever, but all chefs dream of seeing their name over the door of their own restaurant,” he says. He explains that since he was 18 he’s worked for others. Not just any others: Alain Ducasse was his first boss at Le Juana, Juan Les Pins. “From him I learned my way around the kitchens, the history of cooking, reflexes, the essentials, the marketing,” he explains. Nomicos stayed close to Ducasse for ten years, travelling in Asia when he was developing his restaurants and reputation in the East. Nomicos was just 27 when Ducasse suggested him for the prestigious post of executive chef at La Grande Cascade, Bois de Boulogne (Frédéric Robert is there now). Lasserre followed, but Marseille-born Nomicos decided to continue his journey. Tablettes’ menu is presented in an envelope, like a love letter to clients. They’ll know he loves them when they read it and they’re all breathing a sigh of relief that his signature Macaroni aux truffes noires et foie gras features. The macaroni’s cooked in milk, stuffed with a brunoise of celery, foie gras and truffles, drizzled with beef stock, then topped with more truffles. “It’s a 21st-century spin on a recipe by Escoffier,” smiles Nomicos. Click to continue reading.   Readers’ Favorite #1 BUZZ: Le Fouquet’s and Le Diane, Gaya by Gagnaire, Michelin San Francisco 2012  
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