Bubble Glass in Biot

“It has bubble glass!” my friend Heather practically spat with excitement, referring to the town of Biot, slightly inland from the Cote d’Azur, and situated in the Alpes-Maritimes region of France.

We were staying near Cannes in a small town on the Cote d’Azur (a.k.a., the French Riviera). Since we were spending a substantial amount of time there, we decided we should go on a  day trip, perhaps inland a bit to explore what the wonderful region had to offer – sans plage. However, Heather’s outburst did not immediately convince Michelle and me of the need to go to Biot, this small town supposedly known for its famous bubble glass. I had never even heard of Biot. And what was so interesting about bubble glass? What was bubble glass?

For one reason or another, we eliminated each of our other choices of day trips. So, Biot it was. Besides offering world-renowned bubble glass, Biot supposedly boasted a beautifully preserved vielle ville in the hilltops. Not far from the coastal cities of Cannes, Nice, or Antibes, Biot seemed to be easily accessible as well. So off we went in search of bubble glass and a picturesque landscape.

The Town

We were able to take the local train to the city of Biot. Two minutes outside the train station we found the well-stocked Office de Tourisme, which had a plethora of brochures and information about tours, museums, verreries (establishments specializing in glassware), special events and anything and everything one could possibly want to do in Biot. We were handily pointed to a bus stop just outside where we could catch a ride to the vielle ville.

The local bus dropped us off near the foot of the old village, which we immediately began to explore. For all the resistance and teasing we had given poor Heather, we were forced to apologize and thank her for taking us there. Charming, quaint, and breathtaking do not begin to describe what we encountered.

Biot is rich in history, dating back centuries. The area in which Biot currently lies was conquered by the Romans over 2000 years ago. They subsequently occupied it for five centuries. More war and then plague hit, and Biot was largely destroyed. It was rebuilt in 1470; it has been preserved ever since. We found centuries-old stone streets, walls, homes, arcades and archways. There were sprawling walkways joining the neighborhood, all completely paved in individual stones. In several areas, large remnants of what used to be the old city walls rise majestically. Towering at least forty feet, fragrant flowers cascade down the sides to lend a hint of color to contrast the gray stones. Delving deeper, we found such treasures as a church dating from the 15th century. We encountered unusually named streets such as rue Basse and rue Plus Basse.

We lunched at a bustling restaurant, full of tourists even though the areas of the town we had been exploring seemed quite quiet and calm. Sure, as we were walking around the village we would happen upon other tourists, with cameras slung around their necks in an effort to capture the beauty of what surrounded all of us. But everyone was quiet, almost reverently tiptoeing through the streets. We were passing through neighborhood areas, taking pictures of the beautiful facades of homes, homes where people currently lived. Even our little band of three was unconsciously speaking in low tones, almost whispering as we explored the serene and beautiful residential areas.

The Glass

And then there was the bubble glass. Hand-blown plates, glasses, carafes, vases, and many other decorative items could be found in the numerous galleries lining the main areas of the village. As well, you can visit one of the numerous workshops where the gorgeous glass it made. The solid, heavy glass, offered in a spectrum of rich colors, is translucent. Heat bubbles forage erratic and unique patters throughout the object. It’s thick, yet elegant, and the bubble effect lends to the uniqueness of the designs.

It was Eloi Monod who originated the Biot tradition of blown glass in the 1950s. A ceramic engineer, he created the well known and most famous of the glass studios in Biot, La Verrerie de Biot, in 1956. Monod developed a simple technique to produce his creations. Bubbles are a decorative technique and the effect can be achieved by adding chemicals to a glass batch, which reacts to produce random air bubbles during the melting process. Special tools allow the glassblower to manipulate the bubbles into certain designs. So successful and popular was Monod in his endeavors, he served as mayor of Biot from 1965-1971. His original glass workshop became a thriving enterprise and thus bequeathed onto Biot worldwide recognition in the glassmaking realm.

Since its inception, la Verrerie has been open to the public. Tourists can watch the glassblowers and purchase their creations. There are 12 other verreries in Biot that create competing designs. Many glass artists from all over France and other European countries now train in Biot and set up their workshops there. And every French friend I informed of my trip did indeed know about Biot and its famous bubble-flecked glassware.

So take a trip to Biot. It has bubble glass.

For More Information:
www.biot-coteazur.com
www.verreriebiot.com

---

Tired of the oh-so-glamorous title of “consultant” being the only professional label attached to her name, Lisa Raykovicz turned to writing as an expressive and creative outlet, as well as to do something more meaningful than merely “consult.”  Or perhaps it was her two-year stint living in Paris that brought it all out, as the city itself – let a alone France in its entirety – holds a million stories that are just waiting to be penned, giving enjoyment and wonder to readers, enticing them to France.

Lisa spent nearly two years living in Paris on an expat rotation with her company.  Lisa now resides in Boston, where she frequents the “Japonaise Bakery” across the street from her apartment – they have pain au chocolat, although of course not as good as those from the bakery across the street from her old apartment in Paris.