Best of Buzz. Who is Next?

   450  
Best of Buzz. Who is Next?
“Food guides are useless, out of date by the time they’re published”, comments Figaro’s Emmanuelle Rubin. BUZZ agrees, these days there are too many waltzing chefs, chasing too many dreams, eager to cash in on their fifteen minutes. Hurry to these addresses, they may be ephemeral they may last more than fifteen minutes! Who knows? Have you noted that 2005 was the year of “we must try and lower our prices by handing in our stars!”.    As did Alain Senderens who shut Lucas Carton, his 3-Michelin star restaurant, for two months, re-opened Senderens as a new “brasserie de luxe” concept. But, are prices really lower or portions smaller? Find out for yourself at:   9 place de la Madeleine (Metro: Madeleine) T: 01 42 65 22 90 Open 7/7 + Bar du Passage for snacks and cigars.   Still hanging on to their stars, in Montpelier, the Pourcel twins are opening Compagnie  des Comptoirs globally. The latest Paris comptoir, O-Sens, is a hit for its’ laid back lounge atmosphere and sun-filled cuisine of the south by Christophe Fluck. Vegetarians will love crunchy cauliflower with ricotta, croutons, jus of orange and beetroot, sprinkled with raisins and capers. Filet of boeuf, for meaties, with a touch of wasabi and gorgeous golden chunky chips. The staff parlez English and are delightful. Don’t hesitate. “But we only want a glass of wine”. Take the 18€ plat du jour which includes wine or coffee.   23 rue de Ponthieu, 8th (Metro: Franklin D. Roosevelt) T: 01 42 25 95 00 www.lacompagniedescomptoirs.com Shut Saturday lunch & Sunday   Guy Savoy at Chiberta. Contemporary food and service with décor by Jean Wilmotte. It’s expensive but wadda ya expect from Savoy, you want charity, go to UNICEF! Dishes include soothing starters, crème de langoustine et carottes parfumée à la citronelle. A bon beef Simmenthal with a bon Béarnaise, a jarret de veau braisé avec des peches, and desserts d’enfance. Wines are impressive and selected from the wine wall that decorates the stunning space.   3, rue Arsene Houssaye, 8th (Metro: Charles de Gaulle Etoile) T: 01 52 53 42 00 Lunch www.lechiberta.com  From 60€ and you can eat at the bar.  Dans Le Noir: Eat in the dark! Served by visually challenged staff. Luckily chef Anne Marie di Lorenzo is sighted, the owners definitely far-sighted to dare a concept like this. Parisians like to be seen wearing the new YSL, carrying the latest Vuitton/Gucci but they flock to Dans Le Noir big time. Set up initially by the blind for the blind, and yes they do organise blind tastings!   51 rue Quincampoix (4th). (Metro: Hotel de Ville). + Bar Dans Le Noir for wimps who don’t think they can take the full monty. Or try Sunday Brunch T: 01 42 77 98 04 www.danslenoir.fr –  Les Fables de la Fontaine, Le Violon d’Ingres and Café Constant, instigate rumours that CC’s taking over the entire rue. Les Fables, is Constant’s transformed oyster bar, only about 20 covers, freshest fish, seafood and classic desserts such as Pithiviers, Paris-Brest, Baba-Au-Rhum. Service can be a bit grumpy if chef Constant is not around!   131 rue Saint Dominique, 7th, (Metro: Ecloe Militaire) T: 01 44 18 37 55 Open Sunday night! L’Entredgeu: Philippe Tredgeu and his lovely wife Penelope transformed an old zinc bar into the hippest neighbourhood bistro in the 17th. They should open one in each arrondissement, they’d make a fortune. Definitely book ahead.   83 rue Laugier, 17th (Metro: Porte de Champerret) T: 01 40 54 97 24 Carte-Menu 29€ Lunch 20€ Pasco: The décor is Spanish bodega meets Moroccan riad, Pasco has a terrace and great views of the Dome des Invalides. Formerly the kitchens of Thierry Burlot, now at La Maison Baccarat. Pascal Vignes creates Mediterranean cuisine, quality- price you’ll want to rush there. Between 15€-24€ + A La Carte   74 boulevard de la Tour Maubourg, 7th (Metro: Invalides) T: 01 44 18 33 26 www.restaurantpasco.com Apicius: Jean-Pierre Vigato took months to transform a handsome Hotel Particulier, owner Luc Besson, into a restaurant worthy of his talent. Architect Eric Zelle created a mini-hip Versailles, it can’t be long before Vigato is dubbed with a third macaron Michelin. Expect to spend 120€ per person + wine. But there’s nothing to stop you from popping in for a drink at the bar, and rumour has it breakfast is served, but you must reserve.   20 rue d’Artois, 8th (Metro: Concorde) T: 01 43 80 19 66 Closed Sat-Sun Dominique Bouchet: Talented superchef (ex-Crillon) explains his concept. “My carte is short, 5 starters, 4 fish dishes, 5 meat, 5 desserts and beautiful cheese from Marie-Anne Cantin. Yes, he is doing his “plat fetish” le gigot d’agneau à la cuillere, pommes purée. Start with la soupiere de chataignes aux truffe and finish with a riz au lait crème à la praline rose. About 50€ + wine. Bouchet’s boutique/salon/cooking school is opening early in the new year, right next door.   11, rue Treilhard, 8th (Metro: Miromesnil/Augustin) T: 01 45 61 09 46 Shut Sat-Sun  Petit dejeuner chic or glass of champagne at Christian Lacroix’s Hotel du Petit Moulin, 29 rue de Poitou 3rd. 17 rooms showcase a Lacroix creation, say, the corset Madonna wore for her Re-Invention Tour.   T: 01 42 74 10 10. Watch for the opening of Fouquet’s Hotel, Avenue George V, 8th.  Hiramatsu is cooking at Henri Faugeron’s former restaurant, in the 16th.  Cuisine is haute as are the prices darling, it’s turning on the locals, they can afford it.   T: 01 56 81 08 80. Not forgetting: La Table de Robuchon 16 avenue Bugeaud 16th (Metro: Victor Hugo) T: 01 56 28 16 16 Open 7/7 Valet Parking   Gilles Epie at Citrus Etoile, 6, rue Arsene Houssaye, 8th (Metro: Etoile) T: 01 42 89 15 51 Shut: Saturday lunch & Sunday.  
  • SUBSCRIBE
  • ALREADY SUBSCRIBED?
Previous Article Ice Wines and Champagne for the Holidays
Next Article Christmas, New Year and Au revoir, for now


Born in Hampton, Middlesex, UK, Margaret Kemp is a lifestyle journalist, based between London, Paris and the world. Intensive cookery courses at The Cordon Bleu, London, a wedding gift from a very astute ex-husband, gave her the base that would take her travelling (leaving the astute one behind) in search of rare food and wine experiences, such as the vineyards of Thailand, 'gator hunting in South Florida, learning to make eye-watering spicy food in Kerala;pasta making in a tiny Tuscany trattoria. She has contributed to The Guardian, The Financial Times Weekend and FT. How To Spend It.com, The Spectator, Condé Nast Traveller, Food & Travel, and Luxos Magazine. She also advises as consultant to luxury hotels and restaurants. Over the years, Kemp has amassed a faithful following on BonjourParis. If she were a dish she'd be Alain Passard's Millefeuille “Caprice d'Enfant”, as a painting: Manet’s Dejeuner sur l’herbe !