An Insider’s Guide to Auvers-sur-Oise–Part Three

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Visitors to Auvers-sur-Oise now have another reason to explore this idyllic little village immortalized by Van Gogh’s presence there during the summer of 1890: Doctor Gachet’s newly restored home and terraced gardens. This past March 30th, on the occasion of the 150th anniversary of the Dutch artist’s birth, the Gachet house was opened to the public after a nearly five-year restoration period. It is under the direction of the Institut Van Gogh that administers the Auberge Ravoux. Located a brisk walk from Auvers’main train station, the house can be reached on foot by heading down main street, past the Auberge, following signs to 78, rue Gachet. Getting off at Chaponval, Auvers’ other train station situated about 2 kilometres south of the main gare is another option which, in fact, lands one in closer walking distance to the doctor’s house. Paul Ferdinand Gachet (1828-1909), an early homeopath/allopath, amateur artist and champion of such painters as Cézanne, Pissarro, Renoir and Van Gogh, discovered Auvers in the 1870s through Impressionist painter Camille Pissarro who lived in nearby Pontoise. Looking for a place to raise his children in fresh air and sunshine, with proximity to Paris, the doctor settled in Auvers. His wife, Blanche Castets, suffering from tuberculosis, needed a quiet, salubrious environment away from the bustle of the capital. Because his practice was based in Paris, Gachet lived only part of the week in Auvers and did not see patients in the village. His three-storey home, constructed in 1854 of locally quarried limestone, was typical of the maisons bougeoises that sprung up in Auvers and the surrounding localities at the time. These homes brought well-to-do Parisians to Auvers who were attracted by its unspoiled nature. With train service to Paris via Pontoise, the commute to and from the city was just about one hour. During his two-month stay in Auvers, Vincent van Gogh was a frequent visitor to the Gachet household. Typically, he was invited to lunch there on Sundays, weather permitting, in the garden beneath great spreading shade trees. Though the artist enjoyed the company of the Gachet family, the doctor, and his son and daughter Paul and Marguerite, he cared little about the fare that was served. Writing to Theo in Paris, Vincent confessed, “I feel that I can do not too bad a picture each time I go to his house, and he will continue to ask me to dinner every Sunday or Monday. But though it is pleasant to do a picture there, it is rather a burden for me to dine and lunch there, for the good soul takes the trouble to have four-or-five-course dinners, which is as dreadful for him as for me-for he certainly hasn’t a strong digestion. The thing that has prevented me from protesting against it is that it recalls the old times to him when there were those family dinners which we ourselves know so well.” If these meals en famille were stressful to the artist, they were most enjoyable for the doctor who liked nothing better than to gather around a well-laid table to eat, drink, and exchange ideas about art, politics free-love, and homeopathy. In addition to portraits of Doctor Gachet and Marguerite, twenty-one at the time, Van Gogh depicted the doctor’s garden, now planted with a great variety of flowers that are symbolic of both the doctor and his ill-fated patient. The painstaking, immaculate restoration has brought the house back to its circa 1850s look and feel, and like the Auberge Ravoux, the Gachet House is a lieu de mémoire, a site of cultural heritage of great importance. What does the opening of the house signify for Dominique Janssens, founder and president of the Institut Van Gogh? “Auvers is like a big puzzle with many pieces. You have the church, the cemetery, the Auberge Ravoux, the wheatfields, the Absinthe Museum, Daubigny’s atelier. And now you have Doctor Gachet’s house. For the first time in 136 years, the house is again open to the public. What is unique about the site is that it’s a place where Renoir, Cézanne, Pissaro, Monet and Van Gogh all gathered. And like the Auberge Ravoux, there is nothing to see. It’s all about feeling.” For reservations and information call: The House of Doctor Gachet78, rue du Dr. Gachet95430 Auvers-sur-Oise011 33 1 30-36-60-60 (tel)011 33 1 30-36-60-61 (fax) The house is open every day except Monday, April 1st thru October 30th.  *Alexandra Leaf is a culinary historian and lecturer. Her most recent publication is “Van Gogh’s Table at the Auberge Ravoux” (Artisan, 2001). She lives in New York City.
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