Where to Eat in Saint-Germain-des-Prés

Looking for a great place to eat on the Left Bank? You don’t have to resign yourself to mediocre fare at a tourist trap. There are some terrific restaurants in the 6th, and we’re here to spread the good word.

First is Le Christine. (And we give credit to Karen Fawcett, original founder of Bonjour Paris, for introducing it to us last year.) The restaurant itself has existed for around 20 years now, but its latest incarnation — under the auspices of the Becs Parisiens restaurant group — is reaching for the stars. Chef Rodolphe Despagne has been overseeing the kitchen since January. His talent, creativity and ambition are on fine display, particularly with the tasting menu where an asparagus tart is the pièce de résistance (though the mussels dish comes in a close second). You could order à la carte (mains from 30 euros), but the multi-course extravaganza is worth every centime (75 euros for 5 courses, 95 for 7 courses).

The setting itself is lovely. Dating back to the 1700s, the building is the oldest one on rue Christine, a small, quiet street in the otherwise busy neighborhood. (The Relais Christine, a popular five-star hotel with a Guerlain spa, is right nearby.) In previous incarnations, the building was a convent and locksmith shop. The restaurant interiors are a chic melange of old and new: colorful contemporary decor against a backdrop of old timber beams, limestone and parquet floors.

Right around the corner at 30 rue des Grands Augustins, Colvert is a delightful bistro that’s also part of the Becs Parisiens restaurant group. (It was acquired 2.5 years ago — the group comprises a total of four establishments, also including nearby wine bar Grain[s] and ChoCho in the 10th arrondissement.) Colvert got a much-needed makeover, while retaining the old-school bistro vibe — along with beautiful mosaic tiled floors and the zinc-topped bar.

Chef Baptiste Borderie took over the kitchen in January, and he’s creating crowd-pleasing menus that are somewhere between bistro cuisine and fine dining. Previously, he worked at L’Oiseau Blanc alongside renowned chef David Bizet. Other stints include top Michelin-starred restaurants like the Trianon Palace under Gordon Ramsay, the George V, and Joël Robuchon in Macau.

A recent lunch menu (36 euros) started with small marinated sardines atop buckwheat crackers and sliced fennel seasoned with vinaigrette. The other starter option was a delicious asparagus plate with grated Comté cheese and a citron-vin jaune sabayon. This was followed by a delicate fish from Corsica— the other main was candied lamb— both served with roasted spring vegetables. Save room for dessert; the creamy rice pudding was studded with pistachios and drizzled with salted butter caramel.

Oh and the waiter tipped us off on a superb Alsace wine (Mann Vielles Vignes Riesling) which might just become our preferred pick for summer. It was a buzzy lunch crowd, the staff were friendly, and we didn’t want to leave the convivial Colvert— we ended up lingering into the afternoon. After all, the wall of windows facing onto rue Saint-André des Arts allows for prime people watching. So you can tuck into a leisurely lunch while watching the well-heeled residents of St Germain pound the cobblestones.

DETAILS
Le Christine
1 rue Christine, 6th
Open seven days a week
Three-course lunch menu during the week is 45 euros.
Five-course menu is 75 euros.

Colvert
30 rue des Grands Augustins, 6th
Open seven days a week
Three-course lunch menu is 36 euros.
Tasting menu is 75 euros.