Explore an Art-Filled Oasis in Montmartre

An oasis of art, history, and nature in the 18th, the Musée de Montmartre is tucked away on the quiet but storied rue Cortot. Visitors are treated to verdant gardens, a robust permanent collection, and through September, an expo of the neo-impressionist Maximilien Luce’s work.  

Once home to Auguste Renoir’s atelier, the museum is an idyllic place to spend the afternoon. Begin in the courtyard, facing the 17th century Maison du Bel Air, where the permanent collection is located. Enter the museum theater to watch a spectacle vidéo, and head upstairs to tour Suzanne Valadon’s apartment, where she lived with her son Maurice Utrillo and lover André Utter. Pause at the large corner windows to look out over Paris and imagine the three painters, known as le trio infernal, hard at work.

Meander through the Maison du Bel Air to learn about the rich history of artists in Montmartre, and don’t miss a series of wood engravings by Raoul Dufy, but reserve plenty of time for the Luce show. His paintings, drawings, and ceramic pieces deserve study, and there is an interesting section devoted to his political art and story of imprisonment. 

Luce’s work is expertly curated — the paintings are beautifully lit and each room is color-coded, creating a feeling of cohesion as visitors move between periods and subjects. One of my favorite features is actually intended for children, with little plaques featuring a caricature of Luce and accompanying commentary. Note that this feature is exclusively in French, whereas most of the other text in the show is listed in both French and English.  

In July and August, the museum will be observing Nocturnes au Musée and will stay open until 10 pm on Wednesday evenings. I’d still recommend going during the day to enjoy the gardens and perhaps a slice of cake from the cafe. Tickets are 15 euros for adults, 10 euros for students, and free for children under 10. The museum also offers guided tours, including one for families.

DETAILS 

Maximilien Luce — through September 14th, 2025
Musée de Montmartre
12, Rue Cortot, 18th
Tel: +33 (0)1 49 25 89 39
Full-price ticket: 15 euros
Hours: 10 am-7 pm