Le Marché des Enfants Rouges: Great Food in a Historical Site
Le Marché des Enfants-Rouges is the oldest covered market in Paris, located in the Marais at 39 rue de Bretagne. Established in 1615, it’s named for the children dressed in red, living in care of a nearby orphanage. When I hear of orphans, especially those dressed in red, I think of two things, a local crèche called Le Petite Chaperon Rouge (Little Red Riding Hood), as well as, “In an old house in Paris that was covered with vines lived 12 little girls in two straight lines” (Ludwig Bemelmans’ Madeleine). In reality, l’Hôpital des Enfants Rouges was established way back in the Renaissance as a home for forsaken children. The market, in existence 400 years later, is named after these abandoned waifs dressed in their distinctive red.
Life expectancy in the 1500s was low. The plague still threatened 16th-century Paris. The treatment of infectious diseases was beyond the limited knowledge of the medical community, and there were many fatal illnesses contributing to the era’s high mortality rate. Therefore, many children were left without parents; some were orphans of mothers who had succumbed in childbirth. Some poor mothers, unable to feed another hungry mouth, surrendered their offspring to the hospital’s nuns.
Ancienne chapelle des Enfants-Rouges, 90 rue des Archives. Photo: VVVCFFrance/ Wikimedia Commons
To deal with these unfortunates, l’Hôpital des Enfants-Rouges was founded in 1534 by King Francois I, under the urging of his sister Marguerite de Navarre. The compassionate Marguerite was a benefactor to numerous charities and as a sign of such Christian charity, the king decided that these children must be garbed in red – the color of the martyred apostles who died for their faith. Before the color became intrinsically tied to the orphans, the hospice was originally called the Les Enfants de Dieu. The color enabled them to be differentiated from the blue-smocked children under the wing of the rival l’Hôpital de la Trinité.
The orphan’s asylum was located in the rue du Grand Chantier, now part of the rue des Archives near the corner of rue due Portefoin, bordered by the rue de Beauce, and the rue Bretagne. In the courtyard behind 90 rue des Archives, remnants of the former chapel of les Enfant-Rouges are still visible, though largely subsumed by other buildings.
Portrait of Marguerite of Navarre, attributed to Jean Clouet. Public domain
In her book Les Orphelins de Paris, Isabelle Robin-Romero writes that the boys and girls were generally well treated. They were required to do chores within the orphanage, like washing the dishes and setting the refectory tables. They kept their dormitories clean, and swept and tidied the infirmaries and the chapel. The children were hired to accompany funeral processions through the streets of Paris to further instill piety amongst the mourners. Robin-Romero’s book includes meticulous historical documents summarizing how the children were fed. Mainly the meals were of bland boiled meat, on lucky days leftover cuts were turned into a fricassee.
In 1615, King Louis XIII decreed that a market be established to supply the neighborhood with fresh produce. It was located on the tract of land immediately to the east of the home of the Enfants-Rouges. The market was originally named the Petit Marché du Marais but it didn’t take long for the market to take on the name of their distinctively colored neighbors and became the Marché des Enfants-Rouges.
Plan du quartier des Enfants-Rouges. Image: Paris Musées/ Wikimedia commons
The hospital itself existed until 1772 when children were transferred to the hôpital des Enfants-Trouvés on l’Île de la Cité. Coinciding with this time, the philanthropist Geoffroy d’Assy became the proprietor of the market, and improved the area by installing an early form of street lighting, and adding a fountain, ever-so essential to food merchants.
D’assy was guillotined during the French Revolution and the site taken over by his heirs. In 1912, the market was taken over by the city of Paris. The market has been a historical monument since March 8, 1982.
However, despite the decree of 1982, the neighborhood had to fight to save their local market from demolition. In 1994, the tumbledown site was to be demolished and converted into a parking lot. Loyal residents, along with film director Bernard Tavernier, mobilized to save the market. In 2000, Le Marché des Enfants-Rouges gradually reopened following a much-needed renovation, and welcomed new tenants.
Frédéric Houbron, Le Marché des Enfants-Rouges, 1908. Public domain
The Marché des Enfants-Rouges has persevered, and remains the oldest covered market in Paris. The small market, just 2000m2, is vital for the residents of central Paris. A glass roof keeps the dozen or so stands out of the rain. More outdoor stalls come with the nice weather.
The market’s narrow alleys converge into a busy hub of those selling all types and specialties of food. With fresh produce plus flavors from around the world, there is something for all tastes. Vendors sell whatever inspires you to create in your home kitchen, others offer premade dishes to go, and visitors can enjoy lunch at one of the Marche’s many counters. There are also some casual brick-and-mortar restaurants here too in the market’s peripheral walls.
Marché des Enfants-Rouges by Eugène Atget
Le Quatre Saisons is one of the primary fresh food vendors in the market; their stands teem with colorful fruit and countless vegetables, mushrooms, dates, figs and nuts. They have potted herbs and vegetables to plant on your balcony, along with bouquets of freshly cut flowers.
La Petite Ferme d’Ines has goat cheese, honeys and jams from Corsica.
A fish monger Le Nautile sells fresh seafood at les Enfants-Rouges. They have a huge variety of fresh fish, plus shrimps, clams, sea urchins, and oysters.
The terrifyingly named The Butcher of Paris does their part to preserve the terroir of France by supporting small, ethical, and sustainable farms. Wishing to return to the days of the local butcher, instead of the supermarket shrink-wrap, the Butcher of Paris promotes lesser-known cuts of meat and aims for zero waste production. Their dry-cured ham is very good.
The organic vendor Au Coin Bio: Chez Wagner are pioneers: they’ve been around since 1997.
By lunchtime, this noisy and redolent market becomes crowded with locals enjoying their dejeuner. At counters and casual tables they enjoy all manner of cuisines made on the spot.
Crepes and blinis are enjoyed at Lulu Creperie, which calls itself the ‘new wave’ of street food. There’s sweet and savory Krampouezh, galettes from Brittany.
View this post on Instagram
Sweets found within the market include macarons, pastries, and custard tarts, strawberry-rich fraisiers, an abundance of eclairs, and tubs of multi-colored gelato.
Loukoum aka Turkish delight is one of the lovely desserts to round off a meal at Le Traiteur Marocain. They have a huge a variety of tagines and couscous accompanied with delicious ingredients like lamb, prunes, and olives. It can all be washed down with mint tea.
Chez Alain Miam Miam accessed through rue Charlot make crepes, galettes and gargantuan sandwiches. There can be a ridiculously long wait, but Alain Roussel himself is entertaining to watch. They have a counter and an indoor restaurant.
Mangiamo Italiano is an established part of the “new” market; they’ve been there since 2001. They offer combo plates of pretty much all your heart desires when it comes to Italian food.
Les Enfants du Marché– Le Comptoir’s menu is unique, with incredible sounding combos, like smoked eel with toasted hazelnuts and raspberries. These folks also have a wine bar within walking distance at 17 rue de Picardie.
Chez Jeanphi – after a long line up, a seat is welcome. Jeanphi’s specialty is huge pita sandwiches and its pleasant staff.
At Chez Taeko, the Japanese resto has a vast array of Asian noodles. The chicken bento boxes and fried tofu are highly recommended. Katsudon, a pork cutlet with rice, is their speciality.
Corossol is a bright, lively Creole restaurant where one can savor African and West Indian cuisines like cod fritters and fried sweet potatos.
It’s worth taking a look to see what’s on the outside of the market too. There are chocolate shops; one of the world’s best, Jean-Paul Hevin, is at 41 rue de Bretagne.
At the gates to the Marché is the Fromagerie Jouannault with a wide choice of refined cheeses.
Then there are the two other “reds”: in the ‘hood. They’re often muddled up on online travel platforms.
Steps away, but not in the market, is the Café du Marché des Enfants Rouges on the corner at 37 rue de la Bretagne. They have a welcoming and inexpensive menu.
Les Enfants Rouge located at 9 rue de Beauce is a modern and intimate restaurant with inventive food that fuses French classics with techniques and tastes from the chef’s Japanese homeland.
View this post on Instagram
Not to be forgotten, Marché Noir is a fantastically imaginative neo-bistro with an exotic new menu every month, at 30 rue Charlot.
Le Troisieme Café, at 16 rue du Beauce, is a community-based café and fair trade collective where the curious can take part in organic menus at really reasonable prices. Neighborhood volunteers can run workshops or even take over the kitchen.
For a quick respite, there is the charming Potager des Oiseaux found in the market compound. The tiny community garden is maybe open for a few hours each week but its wisteria-draped railings make for a visual oasis in the middle of Paris.
Lead photo credit : Vegetables at the Marché des Enfants Rouges. Photo: Mx. Granger/ Wikimedia commons
Related Articles
