Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2018: Chloé, Marant, Manish & More
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“Fashionably late.” It’s an expression, like most, that is founded in an element of truth. And many Fashion Week shows often get a late start. (Most notable, perhaps, was Marc Jacobs’ 2007 show, which was two hours late.)
Such was the case for Sirloin, the label created by Central Saint Martins graduates Mao and Alve. Show attendees queued outside on rue Saint-Honoré in Paris during Fashion Week awaiting entry to the Sirloin show. Mao was working at Louis Vuitton and Alve at Dries Van Noten when the pair decided to start their own brand in Shanghai. And thus, Sirloin was born.
Sirloin debuted new looks as the fashion world (although often late in quotidian affairs, months early when it comes to trends) looked a few seasons ahead to next year. The label’s Spring/Summer 2018 collection explored “how China is mirroring American prosperity in the 90s and becoming the new land of possibilities.” The looks were a mix of Asian and Americana, with models wearing bright flip flops, gold silk blouses, flouncy tees, purple satin tops, and Miami Vice-esque white pants and blazers.
Indian fashion designer Manish Arora is known for his bright, bold, eye-catching looks, and use of the colors pink and gold (his trademark palette). His fans include Lady Gaga, MIA, and Katy Perry. Arora has been called “the John Galliano of India” for his inspiring and you-can’t-tear-your-eyes-away looks. The label launched in 1997, and the brand’s first flagship store opened in Paris (at 5 Rue Rouget de Lisle) in 2014.
The Manish Arora show during Fashion Week debuted spring and summer looks for next season, which included remarkable, detailed makeup looks with brightly shaded eyelids, glitter dust, soft rosy cheeks, gold and pink designs in the middle of models’ foreheads, gorgeous (and heavy-looking) earrings that swayed to and fro, and multi-tiered beaded gold necklaces. Bright colors of every shade of the rainbow were worn by models, as they strutted in blouses, dresses, long skirts, tunics, and jackets, many of which featured prints or sequins. Arora told Vogue of the collection: “This is my most romantic yet.”
Then again, no one does romance like France, and French labels Chloé and Isabel Marant had good Fashion Week showings as well. Two very different labels, yet both decidedly French.
Chloé had its debut from Natacha Ramsay-Levi, the house’s new creative director. The looks were flowy and romantic and on-par with Chloé’s reputation of looks that are chic, feminine, and comfortable. Light whites, ivories, pastel oranges, and dark grays were the colors of Chloé for spring/summer. Flowy dresses, skirts, and roomy pants dominated the runway.
Another fan of chic-meets-comfort is Isabel Marant. Marant is adored for the functionality and wearability of her looks. And this year, she also included menswear in her show. It is the designer’s first foray into menswear. She decided to design for men too after looking at a collection of her designs and thinking: So many things would look great on guys,” Marant told Vogue.
Her boho-chic looks know no gender, and that was evident in her latest collection. Loose clothes hung on the male and female models alike, who looked comfortable and at ease in the collection, which had a decidedly 70s and 80s vibe, in terms of color palette and presence of windbreaker material. Jackets, shorts, dresses, and the occasional sweater, all kept to Marant’s ethos of comfort is key.
Paris Fashion Week continues to be both new and old, and far from trite, the new-old looks continue to be welcomed.
Lead photo credit : The Sirloin show. Photo: Anne McCarthy